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Messages - 2 for the soul
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« on: July 05, 2020, 01:12:39 PM »
Thanks for the feedback, and actually it does make sense that they're solid as they're so thick! Can't get my head round how the forks would be straight through one yoke but not the other, and yet the forks do go through both (but end up squiffy at the bottom!). I've ordered a CNC ally triple tree as it was something I was looking to do further down the road so it's not a total waste of cash. I'll see how the forks fit in the new one and go from there. I wonder if I messed up the alignment when I changed the ball bearings to a roller bearing kit? Is that even possible? Not sure how that would affect the forks left-to-right alignment  Worst case scenario I can order another set of forks (I just won't tell the missus) but if it's not the yokes or the forks I'm not sure where else on the bike the problem could be coming from! Again, thanks for all the great advice and feedback, and the website looks great Deano  thanks
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« on: July 02, 2020, 07:46:12 AM »
Hi everyone, Thank you so much for this, I got the forks loosened and couldn't actually get the mudguard to attach to both sides at once, not even pulling the forks together. However, I think I have found my problem. Basically I pulled the forks down so they were at normal position and measured the distance between them at the top yoke and at the bottom of the stanchion - big difference with the bottom being wider as expected. I then pulled them through until they were only going through the top yoke. Although they weren't necessarily straight front to back, the distance between them was within 0.25mm. I then pulled them back through so they were only held by the lower yoke and they were back to being about 5mm out. So I think the lower clamps on the triple tree are somehow bent slightly out from each other, whilst the upper yoke appears to be fine. Plenty of replacements on eBay for CB400N or other model types, does anyone know which, if any, other Honda CB triple trees are a direct replacement? I found a very nice billet alluminium one on DimeCity, but it's nearly $750 all in (so around £600) which is a lot if it turns out it doesn't fit. Any way, hopefully once I can find a replacement triple tree the problem will be sorted and I'm hoping the guy who had this problem originally can see this thread and can try the same to see if that fixes their problem too! Unfortunately not old enough to remember the Arrow but looked at pictures and looks like a damn good idea! Thanks again for all the help everyone! 
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« on: June 29, 2020, 11:59:41 AM »
Hi everyone,
Thanks so much for the speedy responses!
So I've got some blocks under the engine and the rear wheel strapped down so i can attach/detach the wheel as often as I like. Once it's in place i've been putting a block underneath to keep it firmly against the forks until I get the spindle clamps on. I've got the straps on the lower yoke and one's tighter than the other which is probably why it looks wonky. Both forks are clamped in at the top the same, and I don't think they've been re-chromed, I polished them up when I got the bike but only the space above the dust cap.
I've definitely got all the pieces from the diagram and in order, I've used the one from the Haynes manual, the one from the Aladdin's cave copy of the manual and one from CMSNL (they're all the same) and i've definitely got the pieces. The bearing retainer appears to be screwed in all the way and is flush with the surrounding hub.
I've definitely got the brake side spacer which sits into the bearing a bit, I've measured it and it's 17mm - so not sure if this is too short or the wrong spacer??
Thank you so much guys!
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« on: June 28, 2020, 09:00:05 PM »
Hi,
First I'm going to apologise, I found a thread some time back that ended around 2018/19 and was hoping to resurrect the conversation as my issue is of a similar ilk but I've spent a good hour trying to find it and had to give up!
I put the front wheel back of my '76 CB400 onto the spindle, arranged all the parts and low and behold there was about 1/4 inch gap between the left fork leg and the speedo drive (see picture 1). The front fender and brake ass. all fit to the right although the calliper is ridiculously close to the spokes (see picture 2). Not sure if this is right?
The chap in the previous thread eventually decided to clamp the forks together from the other side, much to everyone else's dismay for obvious safety concerns! I've twisted the forks in the yokes and the spindle end didn't appear to move any closer to the drive, I've taken the forks off and tried rolling them along a surface with a light behind and there was no discernible bend, I've loosened them in the yokes and pumped the front down to try to settle the alignment etc etc. The only slight hint of a bend I could see was by holding both stanchions together and whilst they were touching at one end, at the other there was no more than a millimetre between them - no idea if this could cause 1/4 inch movement at the spindle but it seems unlikely?
There are, however, scratches to the surface of the stanchions at the end nearest the spindle (see picture 3 and 4) indicating they're rubbing against something, does anyone know if these scratches would indicate a bend in one or both forks?
I can obviously get new stanchions but they're pretty costly and I'd rather not only to find they're not the problem so I now come to my main questions:
Is there another 'del boy' style garage technique I can use to see if my stanchions are bent? Or a way to see if the lower part of the fork is the issue?
Does any one know of a similar style of front end that would be a direct replacement? Ideally one that I could continue to use my wheel and hub with so just the forks and TT and ideally something I don't need to sell a kidney for.
Thanks very much in advance for anyone's help, and again very sorry if I'm missing a thread of the same topic!
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« on: June 08, 2019, 09:02:37 PM »
Brilliant! Thanks for the insight. My biggest worry was keeping them both and doing damage. I’d seen a post discussing the R and it sounded like it wasn’t a good idea but I couldn’t figure out why, but if it’s not going to stop me running it for now it’s something I can fix over the winter then that’s great! Thank you for the help!
6
« on: June 08, 2019, 03:56:44 PM »
Well that definitely makes sense if someone's had to do some work to get seized plugs out. Odd that the DR8 plugs seem to fit.
I'm pretty sure they spark but I'll have to wait till next week to double check - if they do spark is it a disastrous idea to run using different spark plugs as long as they fit?
Thanks
7
« on: June 08, 2019, 12:44:21 PM »
Thanks for a speedy reply! Yes, very odd! I don't know that the ports have been re-tapped in the past, but this may be the case. I looked at the threads on the plugs and they appeared identical (by eye). But yes, it's like the ports are threaded only for the specific plug, but that's odd if the threads on the plugs are the same.  I've started them all off by hand to make sure they're settled before starting with the socket-set. When in the 'wrong' port they start fine and then slow right down as if they're tapered. I've seen some stuff online and on forums about thread 'chasers' and re-tapping etc. Just don't want to have to take the engine out if I don't need to - it's so close to running!  thanks
8
« on: June 08, 2019, 12:16:36 PM »
Hi all,
this is probably the most relevant thread for my issue! Funny but I had exactly the same issue and solved by cleaning the points - felt like a numpty but it's always the simple things - well said!
So... (1976 cb400f) I checked my spark plugs and I've got two NGK DR8ES-L - which I've recently found out are not what I need, but are the one's I got sent by davidsilverspares (the original NGK D8ES-L are not easily available anymore). I've also got two NGK D8EA - which I've read are the best replacements for the D8ES-L.
My problem is the threads in the engine case only accept one of the plugs, not the other. I.e. I can thread in a DR8ES-L into cylinder 3 but not 4, but I can also thread a D8EA into cylinder 4 but not 3.
Question 1 - WTF!?
Question 2 - is this normal or do I need to re-tap the case to allow the D8EA plugs to go in?
Thanks for any help or advice!
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« on: May 29, 2019, 06:57:51 PM »
Ka-ja- those Amal carbs, what bore are they? Had a look at the website and there’s loads of different sizes etc. Did you fabricate a bracket to hold them all together?
Cheers
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