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Messages - 400 Cafe Racer

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1
CB350/400 / Re: Fork Seal Removal
« on: September 20, 2023, 04:57:22 PM »
Hi,

This tool available on Ebay
Sealey Rubber Seal Gasket O-Ring Puller Remover removal Tool - AK7000

did a super job for me on the forks and would be versatile enough for other jobs. ;)

Hope this helps.

Dennis

2
CB350/400 / Re: Warm starting issue
« on: July 28, 2023, 09:32:46 PM »
If you need the choke to start a warm engine, it sounds like fuel starvation or excess air. 

Could be blocked jet(s), restricted fuel flow, vent blockage on tank.  Excess air, could be flexible mounting rubbers leaking etc.

Let us know how you get on. ;)

Dennis 

3
Hi Sam,

Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner. Lifes very hectic at the moment and haven't had time to get back to mine yet  :(.

In your circumstances I would  just concentrate on getting the bike started after the rebuild of carbs on something like 1 1/4 turns on all carbs. Warm up the engine and set the throttle so it will idle near the normal idle speed.

At this point turn each mixture screw 1/4 turn out and see if the engine slows down or speeds up. If it speeds up, (leaning the mixture) then reset the idle speed and do the same again, repeat the process until the idling becomes less even and slower (now too weak). Now go back to the sweet spot in between where it is the most efficient  idle mixture setting for idle speed.

Test throttle response for good pick up and give it a road test.

Let us know how you get on.  ;)

Hope this helps

Dennis  :)


4
Ayup Dennis

Thanks for sharing your settings , I'm going to be using them for my bike. I have K&N with Delkavik exhaust. Currently my build has standard jets 75 40 and notch is in middle , bike is bogging down with full throttle. Hopefully your settings will be good for me as well!

Just wanted to clarify that I've adjusted the needles correcty? See pictures below . Top is original, bottom is new needle with one notch down. Is that correct?

Thanks again bud !

(Attachment Link)

Hi zombie365,

Thats good timing I think.  It just so happens that I decided to change my "Shorty" silencer late last year because it was a bit too obtrusive at full throttle. My choice was the Delkevic. A nice tonal balance and road legal.

Your needle clips is in the same position as mine ie one below centre.

You will see from my previous tests the Air/Fuel ratios which were recorded.

What I have found since fitting the Delkevic is that it bogs down slightly when pullling out of roundabouts or sometimes when pulling away from traffic lights.  The Air/Fuel ratio at say just above idle to 1/4 throttle has now gone significantly richer at 9.8:1 far too much for clean combustion.

I haven't got around to the carbs strip and change yet, but my plan is to go for the 35 pilot jet to lean out the small throttle/intermediate opening and set the mixture screw to give around 13:1 for a clean idle. After this it will be down to road test and results. Due to shortage of time at the moment I am unlikely to be able to get back to it until late May - June. Check that your float levels are equal and true. Also that centrifugal advance system is working correctly on timing, to give correct full advance when checked with a strobe light. Retarded ignition will raise heat and reduce power.

I would say that for me, the other Jet and needle settings I made still retained the good power and torque results, pulling strongly in 6th gear, with the Delkevic fitted.

Let us know how you get on when you have set up and tested. ;)

Hope this help you,

Cheers Dennis :)

5
CB350/400 / Re: Throttle cable stiffness
« on: February 12, 2023, 08:08:53 PM »
Thanks Sesman and Ted.

After sticking it in the vice, applying a little heat, threatening it with long handled grips and lots of trial and error I've got to this.....
Hopefully that will be a lot better on the bike

What I found with mine after I removed it completely for inspection and light oiling, was that there were no kinks or bad bends, but that the inner lining must have melted and expanded causing the inner cable to bind, even after running oil right through.  Worth checking if you stiil have some friction over the full travel before you refit it.

In view if this I have routed the new cable so that it does not go through the "Guide Eye" on the cambox cover, which will reduce any heat transfer from a hot cylinder head vicinity. Checking the cable after a good run confirms it is not getting hot now.

Dennis  :)

Hi Guys,

I was half asleep I think when I read it !!!

It was the CLUTCH CABLE  I was referrring to !!!

Just testing to see if you were all awake  ;D ;D

So just read it in the context of the clutch cable.

Cheers

Dennis

6
CB350/400 / Re: Throttle cable stiffness
« on: February 11, 2023, 05:33:39 PM »
Thanks Sesman and Ted.

After sticking it in the vice, applying a little heat, threatening it with long handled grips and lots of trial and error I've got to this.....
Hopefully that will be a lot better on the bike

What I found with mine after I removed it completely for inspection and light oiling, was that there were no kinks or bad bends, but that the inner lining must have melted and expanded causing the inner cable to bind, even after running oil right through.  Worth checking if you stiil have some friction over the full travel before you refit it.

In view if this I have routed the new cable so that it does not go through the "Guide Eye" on the cambox cover, which will reduce any heat transfer from a hot cylinder head vicinity. Checking the cable after a good run confirms it is not getting hot now.

Dennis  :)

7
CB350/400 / Re: Yellow (Size D) Main Bearings
« on: February 03, 2023, 05:16:12 PM »
Unless the crank is new, the journals will be worn and you should be able to upsize to green  ;)

Rogerxlixi
As well as physical instrument measuring, you should be able to get a final accurate clearance reading confirmed by assembling the bearing with "Plastiguage", then  torqing to correct setting, then disassemble to read the actual clearance for each journal. Its a bit time consuming but gives a clear result IMHO.

Dennis :)

8
CB350/400 / Re: Oil coolers
« on: December 10, 2022, 09:07:57 PM »
Yes to that type of arrangement, but in agreement with you as to how effective it may be in cooling, I was referring to method of fixing as interesting point. The fit for F2 was this plus larger fins on head and barrels as complete package when they ran into trouble with lubrication on that model and kind of stop gap until the twin cam arrived in market.

Wondering the need for cooling as running oil too cold produces just as many problems as too hot. If you've no definite figures of your running example it may be worthwhile assessment to define this.

Running oil too cold, and especially at high rpm can bring unintended side effects. The pump is protected from hydraulic locking (virtually all engine have this) by a pressure bleed off valve that blows excess to sump effectively startng to starve key points in the lubrication system of supply, that's ordinarily the crank and big end bearing sites.
The flow is optimised for stated viscosity (varying with temp) at 90 degree C to give designed flow as originally tested and researched. You'd need to target this temp range in specifying cooling capacity.

I'm going to build a 460 engine for my bike, I have a spare 400 engine as a donor for the project and I now have most of the parts needed for the build, but I've read a lot of older posts claiming oil temp gets marginal with the larger bore size hence the need for additional cooling. I was looking to use an in-line oilstat to regulate the temp, being aware of the pitfalls of overcooling. (I'm an aircraft engineer by trade, spent decades working with both piston and gas turbine engines).

Hi,

Having fitted both an oil pressure guage and  temp guage to my CB400F some months ago, I can confirm that in normal riding you will easily be running at 95c + with 40ish psi @ 3000 and if you give it the beans for a few miles you will be at 120c with 15psi @ 3000. I suspect the reason a low 4.5psi oil pressure switch used was to prevent worry of riders seeing the light blinking at idle on a hot engine.

IMHO If your seals and gaskets are newish, there is a definate case for synthetically improved oils which wern't available in the day to handle the higher temp better, and I will be running some tests next spring.
I think one of the major reasons for piston ring and groove failures is the deposits and gumming caused by burnt 10w 40 oil which cannot handle the excessive conditions at the top of the piston.

Regards

Dennis

9
CB350/400 / Re: Oil coolers
« on: December 10, 2022, 08:51:31 PM »
Yes to that type of arrangement, but in agreement with you as to how effective it may be in cooling, I was referring to method of fixing as interesting point. The fit for F2 was this plus larger fins on head and barrels as complete package when they ran into trouble with lubrication on that model and kind of stop gap until the twin cam arrived in market.

Wondering the need for cooling as running oil too cold produces just as many problems as too hot. If you've no definite figures of your running example it may be worthwhile assessment to define this.

Running oil too cold, and especially at high rpm can bring unintended side effects. The pump is protected from hydraulic locking (virtually all engine have this) by a pressure bleed off valve that blows excess to sump effectively startng to starve key points in the lubrication system of supply, that's ordinarily the crank and big end bearing sites.
The flow is optimised for stated viscosity (varying with temp) at 90 degree C to give designed flow as originally tested and researched. You'd need to target this temp range in specifying cooling capacity.

I'm going to build a 460 engine for my bike, I have a spare 400 engine as a donor for the project and I now have most of the parts needed for the build, but I've read a lot of older posts claiming oil temp gets marginal with the larger bore size hence the need for additional cooling. I was looking to use an in-line oilstat to regulate the temp, being aware of the pitfalls of overcooling. (I'm an aircraft engineer by trade, spent decades working with both piston and gas turbine engines).

Hi,

Having fitted both an oil pressure guage and  temp guage to my CB400F some months ago, I can confirm that in normal riding you will easily be running at 95c + with 40ish psi @ 3000 and if you give it the beans for a few miles you will be at 120c with 15psi @ 3000. I suspect the reason a low 4.5psi oil pressure switch used was to prevent worry of riders seeing the light blinking at idle on a hot engine.

IMHO If your seals and gaskets are newish, there is a definate case for synthetically improved oils which wern't available in the day to handle the higher temp better, and I will be running some tests next spring.

I think one of the major reasons for piston ring and groove failures is the deposits and gumming caused by burnt 10w 40 oil which cannot handle the excessive conditions at the top of the piston.

Regards

Dennis

10
Hi Johnny, Moorey and Jezza,

Thanks for your valued feedback  :) its good to see the broader picture from everyone and see what experiences come in.

Cheers

Dennis

11
Dennis, I've just had a tank resprayed for my 400 and the sprayer (who only does tanks etc) said not to use POR or similar as I had a good tank. He said if the tank wasn't that good inside then a sealer would be better - who am I to argue!
I try and use Esso Supreme unleaded when I can and I'm sure that helps things.
Matt

Thanks for your reply Matt,

Good to hear the opinion of a tank sprayer.

I do use the Esso Supreme thanks, and last ride before winter I always add a very small amount of engine oil to any petrol in the tank and swish around to leave a layer internally. Like the diesel used or 2 stroke mix, this will help to resist rust formation.

I'm interested to find out also because several members in our VJMC club swear by POR 15, but I feel it could overkill on a clean tank and if the treatment delaminates later it could cause other problems. Manufacurer claims seem to say it is OK up to 10% Ethanol content.

We will see who else replies.

Cheers

Dennis

12
Hi Guys,

Hope you are all keeping well.

I am preparing a spare tank for respray, its clean inside and before stored it was washed around with diesel fuel to provide an oily coating inside to preserve it.

It looks clean and solid  inside and I was in two minds just to wash out and use as is. On the other hand with Ethanol now being added into fuels I was considering lining with the POR 15 treatment before any Paintwork is started to avoid damage to the final finish.

I'm interested on your input  :)

Thanks

Dennis

13
CB350/400 / Re: Sudden engine cut outs
« on: November 02, 2022, 06:03:12 PM »
Just a thought but, how long has the battery been on the bike ? Is it an old lead/acid or new gel type
I put the current battery in four years ago, it looks alright but I've never had a bike so long as this, I'll change it. I see on DSS the battery they offer for the CB400F is a gel type now, anyone experienced this offering of theirs yet? Now and then the starter button doesn't respond, usually first push of the day, by moving the kill switch and pressing....then putting it back and pressing it works again. I've opened it up but can't see anything wrong as meets the eye though. Maybe try some WD40?

Failing all else, as a belt and braces solution, you could wire a "Secret Hidden " bye pass switch, concealed from view. Wired direct from the battery - through its own seperate fuse - and connected to the ignition switch output wire.  This would enable you to get home without being stranded.  If the Ignition switch or fuse or anything on the live side fails you would be covered. :)

Dennis

14
WELL GUYs,

Mystery solved. ;D

On detailed close inspection this looks like a well executed refinement by the PO. Well executed and to Honda standard I recon.

The two rubber buffer pads appear to have been shaped to precise 10mm square about 3mm thick. They look as though they are made from something like a section of tyre wall or similar, due to the strong laminated layers. They are bonded to the stop lugs of the fork steering casting by a high strength adhesive. They are definitely effective in giving a soft sprung stop to the full lock positions.

It may be that he simply wanted to avoid hard metallic contact between the surfaces on full lock for whatever reason.?

Food for thought ? ;)

thanks for your input guys.

Cheers, Dennis

15
Hi Guys,
Hope you are all keeping well. I'm just sorting through a few little jobs to do on the 400 Four during the bad weather.

Having noticed the forks on full lock are getting close to the tank, it prompted me to check the the "lock stops" on the forks. The rubber pads are quite badly worn/deformed and would benefit from replacement and give better clearance from the tank.

They do not appear to be available on the DS parts list and wondered if anyone has a source of supply please.  ;)

Cheers

Dennis

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