This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Saesneg Shaun
1
« on: May 24, 2022, 05:16:52 PM »
Found the cause. I just popped the float bowls off to find 1,3 & 4 main jets in the bottom of them  I didn't tighten them up and they rattled loose. No wonder the plugs were were black lol.
2
« on: May 20, 2022, 04:06:24 PM »
Well dang, its still not sorted.
Got the ignition timed with a strobe lamp to full advance at 4500rpm.
Also did a carb balance whilst I had the bike partly disasembled (I know, I know, should have tackled one issue at a time)
Road tested today and she won't accelerate over 4000rpm in any gear. Tried with the fuel tap on and in res and with the cap open but with the same result.
Starts and ticks over fine.
Any ideas?
*edit, just pulled the plugs, No's 1,3&4 very black and sooty, No 2 tan/clean?
3
« on: May 10, 2022, 08:18:08 PM »
Just to update this I fitted the boyer electronic ignition today and she's running on all four again.
Its looks like my problem was the large nut had been used to crank the engine over and had gone oval in the middle. Even with the 10mm nut done up the big nut was still moving around. Fortunately the Boyer kit does away with the large nut and the points cam.
I have a bit of popping through the exhaust but i'm waiting for a strobe to be delivered then I can time it properly.
4
« on: May 06, 2022, 07:10:03 PM »
Thanks for the help guys.
I'm totally fed up with messing about with the points so have ordered a Boyer Electronic Ignition kit.
I went for that one as it doesn't use the stock advance unit compared to the DSS unit and they have been around for donkies years.
5
« on: May 05, 2022, 07:18:19 PM »
Wondering if the rod is backing out of the crank which will release the advance mech ?
If that's happening, then the securing nut may be reaching thread end before tightening mech properly.
The rod seems to be in rock solid. What is very worn is the large nut with the slot in the middle. Years of cranking the engine over on it has turned the centre oval. I don't know if you can just buy the nut? Actually just looking at the cost of the advance unit/points/condensors on DSS I might as well do an electronic conversion! Any recommendations? DSS unit or Boyer seem reasonable choices.
6
« on: May 05, 2022, 04:44:01 PM »
Definitely something wrong with securing the advance mech there.
Agree the rod looks reasonably ok, but mech shouldn't be moving like that and with any real slack at all.
You'll get no real accuracy in timing, gap and dwell to set it up correctly. Should have a washer under the six mm nut to secure the bigger nut, is there anything there ?
Yes there is. The play is there with everything nipped up but not stupidly tight. When I stripped it down the 10mm nut was barely hand tight.
7
« on: May 05, 2022, 04:11:21 PM »
Quick reality check, swap the two wires over coming from coils to points and see if the 2/3 coil fires then. It won't run at all but will show (with confirmed switching from the 1/4 points, if the 2/3 coil will make a spark) and which part of the system is working.
It sounds like the small rod that secures the points cam may be bent. As my routine above, strip the points plate and advance mech, then spin the motor to see if the rod is bent (if so it can give all sorts of errors in points gap) and at least give a baseline to work from.
Haven't swap the leads yet but i'm not so sure about the points cam now. The centre shaft runs true ish but theres lots of play in the whole assembly? Couple of vids attatched https://youtube.com/shorts/uI7pr4SpOKE?feature=sharehttps://youtube.com/shorts/wGs-SIJDHKI?feature=share
8
« on: May 05, 2022, 03:29:38 PM »
A slack cam is no good at all! ATU weights should move out freely, springs free of any crud. Oil the pivot points perhaps. Also check out all screws holding points for 2 and 3 are tight, and re-check the gap. Clean the points. Check out all electrical connections to 2 and 3 points and check out the condensor - with ignition on and if it sparks when you open the points gap, then a possible condensor problem. Have you a spark across the points when it turns over?
I can get it to fire but only on 1-4. I have checked the (new) spark plugs and 2-3 ins't sparking. With 1-4 F mark lined up and the points gap set to 0.4mm the points don't break the circuit within the timing slots on the base plate. Also I seem to have a problem where the points arm touches the cam as it doesn't look like the little contact arms touch the cam at its lowest point? The cam nut wasn't tight but wiggle on the cam was just end float so that seems ok. I don't get this, she's always been a sod to start but was running ok until the main fuse blew?
9
« on: May 04, 2022, 07:08:12 PM »
Also check the connections on the block connector the fuse box connects with. It's possible they were the fault in the first place and it was them failing and connecting with something it shouldn't that caused the fuse to blow.
Could be. I did find a bodged wire soldered between the back of the 15A fuse holder and the brown/white wire from the ignition switch, gawd knows why as the original wire seems fine!
10
« on: May 04, 2022, 07:01:36 PM »
I checked the static timing and points. It all seems fine but I slackened them off and set them again and it now runs on 1 & 4.
Curious as i'd not touched the points since i've owned the bike but it runs, sort of!
2 & 3 still not sparking though. Its quite hard to set them as the centre cam that the points run off is really slack and can be rattled about on the shaft. I'm guessing it isn't supposed to be like that
11
« on: May 04, 2022, 02:56:33 PM »
Thanks K2-K6
Just dismantled the ignition switch and kill switch but no change.
They were both clean. I now have 11.8v at the coils so its improved a bit but still no spark at all?
12
« on: May 04, 2022, 12:49:56 PM »
Hmmm, my k6 is not running.
It blew a main fuse and broke down on a ride last week.
The original fuse box was a corroded mess and just fell apart which I (wrongly) assumed was why the fuse blew.
New genuine fuse box from DSS fitted but still no joy.
I have no spark at the plugs. I've got 12.6V at the fuses but only 10.8 at the coils?
Anything obvious i'm missing before I start pulling the loom apart?
13
« on: March 24, 2022, 08:12:11 PM »
OK thanks guys. I'll man up and have another go with the stupidly expensive rubber bits
14
« on: March 24, 2022, 02:41:06 PM »
Hi All,
I bought 4 carb dust boots from DSS to replace my missing & split ones but I can't see how they go on.
Their made of really thin rubber that looks like it tears easily and the hole is way too small to fit over the carb end.
It looks like I have to dismantle the whole carb linkage and re-sync everything, correct?
Given how expensive they are I would rather not mess them up!
15
« on: October 28, 2021, 07:24:10 PM »
So another small issue. The front mudguard is rubbing on the tyre, mainly the brake line keeper but the muguard is also close.
is my mudguard damaged or have I refitted it wrong?
|
Show Posts