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Messages - philward
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2656
« on: February 17, 2014, 09:45:57 PM »
Hi Richard
That's next! I try wherever possible to do all the work myself (usually do the zinc plating myself but run out of ingredients so can have it done locally for a tenner which is cheaper than the ingredients) so will clean an polish by hand - will be replacing all jets, etc. Just takes time. I would like to do the ultrasonic thing but spending a fortune replacing most of the bikes parts with new so someone else's labour is not in budget. Will trawl the forum for any idea's that will make it easier.
Phil
2657
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:23:08 PM »
Hi
I've just stripped said pivot pin (1975 K2) and damaged the alloy casting (that holds shaft and carb bank). It appears to have two removable keys in the shaft that slot into the casting in a set position (rotating shaft/casting) and then slide out easily. I've just bought another alloy casting from ebay (USA).
While I'm on subject - please see my new thread on carb bracket finish
Hope this helps (will let you know how assembly goes in few weeks after plating)
By the way - cruzimage on ebay (japan based) have kits for all 4 carbs for £28 - don't know what there like. I've tried to buy them but cant because says seller will not sell to me!
Phil
2658
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:02:02 PM »
Hi Guys
With the engine in the frame, I'm onto the carbs. They are now in a thousand bits. Can anyone tell me whether all the external metal parts silver zinc or cadmium (goldish) in colour?
Thanks
Phil
2659
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:31:19 PM »
Thanks trigger - will get engine rebuilt tomorrow
2660
« on: February 11, 2014, 10:01:58 PM »
Thanks Trigger - any change to torque figures on refitting? I torqued them up to figures recommended in genuine Honda workshop manual but when I took head of again, they didn't seem that tight compared to when I torqued them up on rebuild or on original strip down?
2661
« on: February 11, 2014, 09:28:13 PM »
Hi Guys
Completed rebuild of engine last week and fitted into frame. As per a previous enquiry, I fitted some high performance valve springs (from a spare American import engine) that included shims which I didn't fit because thought there was enough extra spring strength. Anyway, got paranoid and couldn't remember whether I'd fitted the aftermarket spring seat (or whether the unfitted shims where actually used as the seat) and had to re-strip top end to check and for my piece of mind. Turns out that I had fitted the valve spring seats and it was a waste of a night - but now have piece of mind!
Question is - whats your thoughts on re-using the head gasket which has compressed from 1.35 to 1.15 mm. Obviously not run engine. As its a new big bore kit, I'll have to get new gasket from Japan (cruzimage) which will take few weeks.
What do you think?
Phil
2662
« on: January 15, 2014, 09:22:39 PM »
Here's a pic of valve spring - standard and triple (hopefully pics load)
2663
« on: January 15, 2014, 08:12:36 PM »
It did have a high comp 836 kit on - only discovered when I got the other newly bored barrels back and thought I'd see how much bigger the new bore was to std pistons - only to discover they fitted straight in!
I'll compare cams and see if there's a difference.
If the springs are just a heavy duty (American) aftermarket set, what effect will they have on normal riding - the bike won't be used hard (got other bikes for that). I do understand the advantages of heavier spring when used at high revs but will they impact on low speed running?
Would buy a new set but spent a fortune on new parts for engine already.
2664
« on: January 15, 2014, 06:56:13 PM »
H guys
Posted a longer version of this post last night but can't find it!
In short building the motor from the best of two engines. One of engines is from America via DK. On stripping valves and springs from American engine (Early K1/2 I think based on schematics because no engine number - previous guidance from forum members suggested cases replaced under warranty due to the chain snapping problems on early models), the valve springs are triple springs! An inner, outer and flat spring that fits between inner and outer. They are slightly wider/higher and the collet retainers are heavy duty machined items when compared to the standard thin retainer.
Can I use these springs with standard camshaft/engine (except standard compression 836 kit)?
Any help appreciated. Still can't upload pics because can't make them small enough.
Phil
2665
« on: January 14, 2014, 10:42:45 PM »
Have got the bottom end together and big bore barrels bored - just waiting for knock pins and then barrels will be on.
Before I ask my next question, probably best to give background to my rebuild.
Bought a K2 in total bits in mid 2012 - rusty and heavily corroded crankcases (in bits). Was going to replace most chrome/etc so as long as all tin ware and main chassis bits there I wasn't bothered by condition.
Decided that I would buy a complete motor to rebuild and bought one from DK. But on stripping the top end, it was evident that cam carrier oil way brockage had caused cam journal/carrier damage.
So after a bit of mix n matching between the new engine and engine bits I had, rebuilt bottom end of DK sourced engine (mains/big ends/primary chain/etc/etc) and barrels and head from original bike which was in good order except valve spring missing (and fin damage on DK sourced engine).
As valve springs where out of original head and a bit rusty, I wasn't happy to put them in rebuilt motor and as I'm running out of cash(!) thought I'd use valve springs out of DK sourced motor.
I took them out tonight and they have 3 springs per valve! An inner and outer and an additional flat spring that that runs between the inner and outer. The collet holders are also a heavily machined item compared to the thin standard items.
So has anybody got any idea about these springs and holders and more importantly, will they be ok to use with standard cam and standard set up (except big bore on std compression).
Incidently, turned out the DK motor turned out to have had a 836 kit on.
Thanks
Phil
2666
« on: January 14, 2014, 10:02:43 PM »
I'm in on the contribution if needed - really appreciate all the help and guidance I've had from everyone - and of course, big thanks to Steve for helping facilitate everyone sharing knowledge
Phil
2667
« on: January 13, 2014, 10:26:01 PM »
Tried again to upload but the picture is 1.48mb (just a phone picture?) so can't show finished result
Phil
2668
« on: January 13, 2014, 10:00:13 PM »
I got the correct colour from RS paints, bought decals and prepared the tank myself. Then got somebody I know who works in a car body shop to spray tank and side panels - applied decals and then give tank/panels back to sprayer to put final laquer cout on. Cost me £40 for paint, £20 for decals and £70 for spraying. Top job and finish. I'm sure any good car body shop will do similar job/price.
Tried to upload photos but no luck again! Similar standard to the pics on this thread
Phil
2669
« on: January 05, 2014, 11:12:59 PM »
Hi Bomber
I served my time as an engineer and worked in aero industry with all the top make tools. I bought some Halfords Pro range several years ago and rate them - think they've got lifetime guarantee too
Phil
2670
« on: January 03, 2014, 11:01:22 PM »
Yep - 50 squid for ALL four bores
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