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Messages - simonster
16
« on: November 22, 2014, 03:16:02 PM »
I have more or less the same set of float heights on each carb 16.5 mm left float and 18 mm right float ( within a few points of a mm) measured from the body to the top of the float body. I've read that the height should be 22mm and if so these are way off. Plus the difference between floats left and right are uniformly 1.5-2 mm out. Any logical reason for this? Cheers
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17
« on: November 22, 2014, 03:05:12 PM »
360 centres on the new rear shocks. I've tried to compensate the forks by placing a 1inch collar/ spacer to reduce the spring sag and 160cc of sae 20 as per the book. I may need to tinker with the levels after my first run out tho. I know messing with the geometry can bugger the handling but I'm willing to compromise a little to keep the rear end lifted that extra inch or so. I would welcome any thoughts gods or bad!
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18
« on: November 20, 2014, 07:27:51 PM »
M2 stainless works well as a non standard replacement for trip knob and m2.5 for the face plate. Both M sizes are are about 0.2 mm smaller than metric mm and so diameter and thread are a nice tight fit.
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19
« on: November 19, 2014, 12:00:13 PM »
Aluminium base plate with ally welded battery pod with strap and rubber mount for the starter solenoid and space for winker unit.
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20
« on: November 19, 2014, 11:29:51 AM »
Frame painted
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21
« on: November 18, 2014, 10:14:25 PM »
That may work Woodside. Does anyone know if the pegs are solid or just heavy tubed?
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22
« on: November 18, 2014, 10:11:41 PM »
All are good suggestions. I will see how it looks on the bike without the boots and take it from there. Cheers all.
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23
« on: November 18, 2014, 09:25:46 PM »
The front foot peg boots are pretty much warn out and I would like to replace them with slimmer profile rubbers which are are either compatible with the 500 k front footrests or something from another model which will still fit the step bars but have a less agricultural look ( sorry to offend the purists ). I do love the bike but the pegs are something else and resemble the pegs off a 50's Triumph.
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24
« on: November 18, 2014, 01:42:55 PM »
I should also say, I'm still a novice on the renovation of these motors and I could be wrong. That said the piece I made does the job as I suggested.
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25
« on: November 18, 2014, 01:31:31 PM »
I found that mine was missing and I made a plate from thin ally to fit the 6 mm bolt that threads through the ignition coil bracket. It wasn't essential but keeps the leads from gaping.
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26
« on: November 18, 2014, 12:57:26 PM »
Sorry the images aren't too clear, it is part number 19 which is a protective plate for the hytension leads.
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27
« on: November 18, 2014, 12:54:16 PM »
And this..
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28
« on: November 18, 2014, 12:53:13 PM »
The attached should help.
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29
« on: November 18, 2014, 11:24:34 AM »
More of the same.
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30
« on: November 18, 2014, 11:16:02 AM »
All brackets and other useful additions have been hand made and fabricated out of 3 mm 6k grade aluminiun, which is strong but workable under a little heat, corrosive resistant qualities and can be polished to give a chrome like appearance.
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