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Messages - simonster
31
« on: November 18, 2014, 10:50:31 AM »
Getting the right length and look for the seat loop is the first and in my opinion was the biggest decision on the build ( second to the paint ) as it was to determine the overall lines and longer length to the frame. I had to cut 30mm out of the loop to lessen the arc as I wanted it to sit exposed but to follow the shape of the seat pan.
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32
« on: November 17, 2014, 09:12:03 PM »
Yes I had to carefully drill the head on the trip screw to release the knob which allowed me to get to the screw to remove with pliers. The thread diameter on that screw is 1.9 mm and 2.2 for the dial facia screws. The heads are different on the speedo and tacho but the threads are exactly the same and I don't mind at all the head type just that they match in pairs. Don't make it a special search, I may just clean and touch up the heads to save the headache. Btw I have just tried a 1.6 mm watch screw for the trip knob and it holds fine. So just need to fix the dial screws. Cheers all.
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33
« on: November 17, 2014, 08:49:20 PM »
The end result on the tank and seat panel.
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34
« on: November 17, 2014, 08:45:16 PM »
Also..
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35
« on: November 17, 2014, 08:42:41 PM »
Here's a picture update on how the tank is looking. The bike is almost there pics showing the progress to follow.
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36
« on: November 17, 2014, 07:28:59 PM »
Yes that's them. Cheers guys.
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37
« on: November 17, 2014, 03:10:08 PM »
Just wondered if anyone knows where to source the face dial screws and the trip knob screw. I have managed to removed them ok, but the originals are rusty. I've tried watch repairs, model shops can't get anything anywhere close to the little blighters.
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38
« on: November 17, 2014, 03:01:09 PM »
I'm rebuilding the carbs on my 500 k1 and I need to replace a broken plate B which holds carbs 1+2 carb screw adjusters together. The part number is 16139-323-04. I have tried DS who can source it from the sub continent for 97p plus postage but it will take upwards of 2-3 weeks to arrive. Just wondered if anyone had a spare knocking about? I can send out a self addressed envelope with cash to cover the part. I may need to fabricate one out of thin tin if there's no takers. Thanks in anticipation.
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39
« on: November 17, 2014, 01:59:00 PM »
I had cause to replace mine recently. The push rod oil seal is 8 mm and and the domed end on the clutch side which fits snugly into the mushroom lifter ( clutch rifter joint ) is stepped down to 7.8mm and domed. The rod length should measure 257 mm which allows a little play to be adjusted by the adjuster clutch, any longer and there is a risk of engaging the clutch when you replace the left crankcase cover. I ordered silver steel 8 mm rod from an engineering company advertd on eBay. I had a mate lathe/ turn the dome and I wet and dried the bar finely to a micro under 8 mm so it didn't grab the needle bearing beyond the oil seal. I then heated hardened both ends. The bar with delivery cost 4.85 delivered then half an hour to fashion and I'm a novice at this game.
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40
« on: November 13, 2014, 01:21:29 PM »
Cheers Motad, that advice does help and reassures me to stick with these settings and only alter things if problems are evident.
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41
« on: November 13, 2014, 10:58:12 AM »
To be honest I'm not sure what make the pipes is. The I bought the bike as an engine in a frame with wheels and all the other components came in a box and that included the exhaust. It has been shortened I would estimate by 4-5 inch. I couldn't see any markings to identify the make or even be sure it has been run on the bike and the pipes have now been fully wrapped, premature I know! The bike looks like it has been raced in the past so I had assumed the carb settings would have been altered to suit that purpose. However, the jets are standard but not sure abt the needle. I have attached a pic in case anyone recognises the make of the pipes, long shot i guess.
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42
« on: November 12, 2014, 03:12:49 PM »
I think I will stick to the jets and settings as they are and see how she runs. Cheers Florence
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43
« on: November 11, 2014, 10:06:09 PM »
Thankyou kent400. It was rust that had collected on the magnet which was dragging along the casing. Cleaned and now working fine. Will be paint removing the outer casing on the brass brush wheel and then polish it opposed to repainting, it to suit the look of the bike. I'm hoping the steel outer cone can be finished in this fashion without it rusting up too quickly. Does anyone else have any experience refurbing these clocks to a polished finish and how does it weather unlaquered but wax protected? Cheers
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44
« on: November 11, 2014, 05:51:38 PM »
My research shows that the main jet and slow jet are standard, just can't find anything about the needle or the difference with mine and 272304 which is also used on the 500k?
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45
« on: November 10, 2014, 10:14:09 PM »
Thanks for that advice. There is definite damping on the needle because when it does return there is that nice millisecond delay before smoothly unloads to zero. This is how it looks if you could advise on the type of mechanism I have. Cheers
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