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Topics - Drew400
31
« on: February 14, 2015, 05:29:49 PM »
Hi all, I have yet to refit my original exhaust and DSS replica silencer back on the bike and have this quick question before attempting to... DSS sell a silencer bracket (see: https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/graphics/parts/18353377610P_1_large.jpg). However, there wasn't one when I dismantled the bike and I can't find that part listed in my parts catalogue. Naturally, I'm reluctant to buy a part (and pay the dreaded postage) if it's superfluous to my needs. My 400 is a footrest on the swing arm type (if that's significant). Thank you, D.
32
« on: February 13, 2015, 02:20:01 PM »
Hi all,
I'm aware of horror stories about 400/4 brake calipers and so I'm expecting plenty of expertise on this forum (as usual)!
I haven't yet much effort into this part of the restoration. However, having refitted all the brake parts and bled the system, I'm left with a spongy lever action (that doesn't appear to do much at the disc end) and a front wheel that I can move in a rearward direction (as long as I put some effort in) but that won't budge in a forward direction.
It was all working fine when I stripped the bike down. However, since then I have replaced the hoses and unions (and of course the fluid!).
Any thoughts before I embark on a proper investigation in my garage?
Thank you,
D.
33
« on: February 12, 2015, 09:09:58 AM »
In my experience people like us (sweeeping generalisation there) also like models: bikes, cars, ships, aircraft, etc. If that's true for you and you live anywhere near the South West, there is a show on Sat 21st Feb at the Fleet Air Arm Museum, Yeovilton, Somerset, sponsored by Airfix - http://www.fleetairarm.com/event/72.aspxThe museum is magnificent, regardless of its model show. Hope this is of interest and within the spirit of the forum... I have no commercial relationship with the museum! Cheers, D.
34
« on: February 08, 2015, 05:12:02 PM »
Hi all, especially those of you who like electrics.
I was hoping to attach the battery and turn the engine over a few times on the starter motor (I even have a car battery ready to support the plan). However, I attached the battery, turned the key and nothing happened. So here's what I've done so far (with my rudimentary knowledge of wiring diagrams and multi-tester usage):
1. Battery is relatively new, recently charged and showing 12+volts on the tester.
2. The starter solenoid is live at the point where it's connected to the battery.
3. I removed the block connected to the ignition key under the headstock: every terminal is dead.
4. I have jammed my tester into every wire (especially red ones) and terminal block that I can locate and they're all dead.
5. There's a 2-pin male block connector with red wires as part of my new wiring loom, but no female connector as far as I can tell (you can see it on the photo below on the left above the shiny starter motor cover). I can't see an equivalent on my old loom. What should this be connected to?
I've probably missed something obvious and will be delighted if you can point that out to me!
Thank you,
D.
35
« on: February 07, 2015, 01:23:06 PM »
Hi all,
I have bought a replacement rear mudguard (i.e. the chrome bit) from DSS. Whilst it differs somewhat from the tatty one I removed, I'm assuming its correct given its source and how it looks in comparison with the part catalogue drawing. I'm also assuming that the old one was a non-Honda replacement.
The two bolts on the top align perfectly and fasten it well to the plastic mudguard and the upper rear frame. However, there's a gap where it meets the side of the rear frame. The pictures below aren't great but hopefully they do show the gap (i.e. both are looking from above where the mudguard has angled sides v the frame).
Is this correct and am I missing some spacer or some such?
Thanks, D.
36
« on: February 07, 2015, 01:10:27 PM »
Hi all,
My bike came with a (presumably non-standard) solid state rectifier that was patched into the old wiring. My new loom assumes something different and so I am trying to make it all work, naturally.
I'd appreciate your help in identifying which of the yellow wires (male ends) from the rectifier, align to which of the female ends in the loom connector - as per the photos below.
Many thanks,
D.
37
« on: February 07, 2015, 12:37:51 PM »
Hi all,
According to my parts catalogue, this part is called a 'stay, speed unit' (#38555-377-000). However, I can't make out where it goes nor do my inadequate photos of the dismantle help me.
Can you help?
Also, where does the attached green wire go?
Ta, D.
38
« on: February 07, 2015, 12:33:54 PM »
Hi all,
Just back from a trip to Koh Chang in Thailand where I observed this interesting custom bike amongst all the hundreds of step-throughs.
No doubt people on this forum will be able to identify all its source parts, starting with the 1960s(?) frame and the water-cooled engine!
Sadly I never saw the owner to ask about it.
Cheers,
D.
39
« on: January 05, 2015, 07:38:20 PM »
Hi all,
And for my first question of 2015...
My 400/4 was owned by a learner and restricted to 25kw (whatever that means!) to which end an inlet device was fitted by I F International. You can see from the photos below that I have removed the offending article from each one. I would be obliged if you experts can confirm if they now look as they should or is there anything else to remove (i.e. the inner lining, say?).
Thank you.
D.
40
« on: December 31, 2014, 02:40:01 PM »
I joined this forum on 2nd Jan 2014. It has probably been the single-most important contribution to the amateurish fumblings that I call my 400/4 renovation project.
Thank you all for the tips, suggestions, pointing out the obvious (not to me), sending me spare parts and lubricants(!), links to websites, copies of manuals, etc., etc.
I hope to get said baby back on the road early in 2015 and will post a picture or two.
In the meantime, all the best for 2015 to you, your projects and to your growing and sharing expertise.
D.
41
« on: November 22, 2014, 04:41:57 PM »
Hi all,
A major milestone for me is putting the engine back in the frame today. All looks lovely and somewhat cleaner than when they were last together!
However, as the second picture shows, there's a gap between the frame and the bottom front engine mounting bracket. The washer I've slipped in there to demonstrate is 2mm deep. There is no washer shown on my parts catalogue/manuals.
Clearly, I can insert a 1mm washer on each side but wanted to run this by you experts. Can frames spring outward when the engine is removed (or should there be a washer in there all along)?
Thanks all,
D.
42
« on: November 15, 2014, 03:11:15 PM »
Hello experts,
The engine is back together and the barrels, head etc. are fitted (see picture).
I attached the kickstart lever to see what happens when moved by hand. All that happens is the clutch centre shaft rotates. Should it not also turn the crankshaft and the pistons?
I'm hoping with fingers crossed that the clutch etc has to be in place to make this all work, rather than I have cocked something else up and have to dismantle the whole thing again for the umpteenth time!
Thank you (in worried but hopeful anticipation).
D.
43
« on: November 15, 2014, 01:19:02 PM »
Yes indeed, folks. There I am 'tightening fully' (as instructed by Haynes) the four bolts that compress the springs/square plate of the clutch when, snap, one shears off. Oh joy, I say to myself as I briefly contemplate trying to run it with three bolts in place (soon dismissed that lazy notion).
I had already checked to see if there was a torque setting for these bolts when coming across the 'tighten fully' instruction. That instruction says to me, keep going until it stops turning... not a question of trying to then over-tighten it against the stop. No, this bolt snapped before I had to put any real pressure on it with a wrench.
I'm sure that I can source a new pressure plate fairly easily, probably more easily that trying to drill out the bit that's still in there. More importantly, do you have any tips for the torque that should be applied? Is there any danger from under-tightening (which will now be my preferred default approach)?
Thank you,
D.
44
« on: November 02, 2014, 05:27:12 PM »
Hi all,
My next expression of lack of experience...
The Haynes manual shows some chap neatly fitting the cam tensioner cap and two bolts... looks easy. However, on mine the blade stands proud and requires considerable pressure against the springiness of the blade to locate, never mind tighten, the two bolts. Clearly, something's not right and so I've not tried to fasten it in, pending responses from you.
Have I done something else wrong?
1. the blade appears to be seated in the U bracket at the bottom of the barrels
2. the spring adjuster is compressed so there's no pressure from it on any part of the tensioner blades/chain
Thoughts anyone?
Ta (again),
D.
45
« on: October 25, 2014, 06:56:01 PM »
Hello all,
Having put the top half back together, I need some reassurance (or correction) that my camshaft is correctly installed. That's partly because the manual isn't totally clear to me, such as it's not obvious from which side the accompanying photos are taken.
My photos below hopefully show a correct installation. The pistons in cylinders 1 and 4 are high in their barrels (2 and 3 are low), the T mark for 1 & 4 is lined up with the crankcase mark and the lines on the cam sprocket are horizontal.
I guess I'll know for definite when the rockers are back on, but I didn't really want to test that theory before you guys and gals have had a chance to comment.
Thank you.
D.
p.s. I've discovered a part that I have failed to install - starter gear bolt & tab washer, doh! Looks like I have to separate the crankcases again, although the manual suggests I can do this without dismantling the top half. Any views, comments (like 'you idiot!) or tips, much appreciated!... yet another doh! I guess next time I do this job I'll have a better system of recording dismantling!
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