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Messages - TrickyMicky
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46
« on: August 20, 2023, 08:42:29 AM »
I use "classiccarleds.co.uk". Not the cheapest, but very good quality, and they provide the dimensions of their bulbs. If you have a problem, when you phone them a real knowledgeable human being answers! Definitely worth the outlay to preserve ancient wiring etc.
Just as an aside, bearing in mind that I am not an electrician, when I fitted LED's to the 400, all was light and joy, but for my sins I also own a JDM GB250 Clubman which also received the LED treatment. Did not realise that as this model has only one repeater lamp in the speedo for the indicators, you have to use small diodes to stop all the bulbs flashing together!! Apparently, with filament bulbs, if you are signalling left for example, the current going to the repeater bulb is earthed through the right hand indicator system, but does not retain enough power to illuminate the right hand bulbs. LED's need only a minute amount to work so are illuminated. Hence the need for diodes, (one way valves!). The small digital fisher units are reasonably priced, and have a fixed flash rate no matter which bulbs you use, you can even mix them. Have fun, Mike.
47
« on: August 17, 2023, 06:31:47 PM »
I've been using K82's for a few years now. In general I find them more than suitable for my riding style. Just a couple of hours ago, returned to Suffolk after spending 3 nights in West Sussex with no problems. But, the rear tyre is very susceptible to "tram lining" once the centre of the tread starts to wear into a more flat profile, maybe I should accelerate harder out of corners!! Might be tempted to try Avon Roadriders next time, they are a dream on my little GB250 Clubman.
48
« on: August 08, 2023, 11:26:01 PM »
If you are still using the original headlamp, then the bulb is a BA20D Bosch type fitting. These are available as LED's and are a straight swap. The heatsink is inside the reflector so there is no space problem inside the shell. I have replaced all my bulbs with LED's, gives the ancient wiring an easier time. A bright white 233 LED used in the front marker light makes a quite good daytime light. The pretty bit is replacing the speedo/rev counter bulbs with green LED's. Classiccarleds do a vast range, not the cheapest, but very good quality.
If you go the whole hog and choose LED's for the indicators, you MUST purchase orange bulbs and a replacement flasher unit, quite cheap, it's the size of a standard relay and fits into the original rubber holder quite nicely.
49
« on: August 06, 2023, 11:16:29 PM »
I use K82's on my 400. I wanted a compromise of period looks and fairly good grip, also I found they are fairly good in the wet. I you want to ride a bit harder, then the Avon Road Riders are VERY good. I use them on the little GB250 Clubman, and they have turned me into a 75 year old teenager!
50
« on: August 04, 2023, 08:43:37 PM »
Forgive me if I seem a bit of a numpty, but re, the drilling of discs, I assumed that, apart from being fashionable, it helped with water dispersal and cooling. The brake works by friction between the pad and metal, not fresh air. The same argument as to tyres, it's the rubber which grips the road surface, not the tread. The tread is there just to disperse water. It's Friday evening, I've had a couple of beers and a good meal! Stay safe everyone. Mike.
51
« on: August 02, 2023, 04:37:36 PM »
Thank You! With the caliper removed (or just loosened), the spring easily moves the arm/pad back on its own. The piston/pad is not noticeably retracting back into the caliper when brake pressure is released. I'm now wondering if a new seal is needed. Sounds like caliper disassembly/inspection would be a good thing...
. Just be aware that, as somebody else said, when releasing the brake pressure the only returning movement is the seal regaining its original position, which is negligible. Once the whole ensemble is assembled, and on the bike, the movement of the pad/calliper is barely visible to the naked eye. Can't remember the clearance, it's in the workshop manual which is out on the garage at present, but I'm sure somebody with a better memory than me can help!!
52
« on: July 29, 2023, 11:28:01 PM »
I had exactly the same problem a few years ago. It was not long after I had replaced the complete points back plate with a nice new fully fitted out pattern one. First failure was miles from home, the very nice RAC man was familiar with these bikes and diagnosed a faulty coil, and we travelled back home on his lorry. New coils fitted, problem re-occured about a month later, so like you I removed the points cover and ran the engine and it looked like firework night. Still had the original 1976 backplate which was re-fitted along with two sets of genuine(expensive) points. No more problems!
PS the condensers are the original factory fittings, 47 years ago, the other problem with the pattern plate was difficulty in trying to get the correct timing for both sets of points. Try and stick with originals if at all possible. Have fun. Mike.
53
« on: July 27, 2023, 08:59:52 AM »
Just a random, unprofessional, stupid thought:- I assume that the reason for changing the seal is that it is already leaking. If as you say, the engine has to be split, the work involved in just getting the engine out is quite daunting just to access a seal that is readily visible. I think I would be tempted to try to remove the seal, by fair means or foul, have a go at removing the tit on the new seal, and tap it into place. If it does not work and still leaks, then put the Heath Robinson manual away, remove the engine and do it by the book. It has cost you an extra oil seal.
54
« on: July 23, 2023, 08:06:47 AM »
I've owned my 400 for over 30 years, and I've found that because there is virtually no flywheel effect, it does not like 'ticking over' until really warm. I made the mistake of increasing the idle speed using the large thumbwheel under the right side of the tank. This was fine until the engine was hot, and then, like yourself it was "idling" at 2500 revs! If your choke lever is set up right, there is a fast idle position as you start to lift it. You say that it's possible the carbs may have been removed, might be worth checking the operation of the two throttle cables, when I replaced mine it took a couple of days to get them settled in correctly. Hopefully this might help before you have to go tearing everything apart. Good luck. Mike.
PS. I heartily second the comment re. the gearbox oil seal!!
55
« on: July 21, 2023, 10:31:17 AM »
Hi all! A few days ago I acquired a '76 CB400 four, took it out for my first ride. Fun little bike...except for the front brake which I found totally inadequate.
Subsequently I found this site and read all the posts I could find, seeing much re the "wooden" feel and generally mediocre stopping power. On my bike the lever is firm, no sponginess. It just doesn't apply any real stopping power, regardless of how much pressure I apply on the lever. The bike has 13,276 miles and is in excellent, well serviced condition with a lot of receipts for work done, to include replacing the cam chain tensioner as well as other engine "freshening." The only modification to the bike from stock is an electronic ignition.
I contacted a well-known vintage Honda spares supplier, asking them for recommendations to improve the brake. I was surprised that rather than trying to sell me a new rotor, new lines, new master cylinder, etc), the response was, "New pads may help but the brakes on a CB400F were never great." 
The front brake feels pretty much the same as the stock front brake did on my '73 Norton Commando - maybe even a bit worse - before I replaced the OEM master cylinder with a Brembo from Colorado Norton Works. That, a set of braided SS lines, and some more aggressive pads in the OEM caliper transformed that brake. It is now acts and feels like modern brakes. Of course the down side is that the master cylinder does not look anything like the OEM version.
My general thought is to go down a similar path though from searching and the suppliers response, it doesn't sound like anything is going to make the sort of transformation I am looking for.
So...I'm wondering if anyone has done something similar (different master cylinder) or found some tricks/tweaks/mods to the OEM front brake that I have not managed to find via the search function. Also, what are the most aggressive brake pads for street riding, including aggressive riding on narrow, twisty roads? I don't care about rotor wear. If I had to replace a rotor every 10,000 miles to get good brakes, that's fine.
Thanks!
. Greetings, and welcome to the forum. People that are brought up with these vehicles were used to the braking standards of the time. The braking power available was quite sufficient for the tyres and other ingredients that were the standard in the 70's, and this included many of the four wheeled vehicles as well. As time passed, engineering and tyre quality improved beyond belief, you had to be bloody brave to try and make rapid progress on a wet road whilst your bike was still wearing its factory fitted Sensitol lubricated tyres!! Moving on to today, you are still riding a historic vehicle, if you want to ride with your knees and arse scraping the floor, then use a modern vehicle. In fact if you want aggressive street riding, along with aggressive riding along narrow country roads, I hope we never meet.
56
« on: July 18, 2023, 08:55:13 AM »
Not sure Ken, probably going back to sometime in the 80’s, definately long time ago.
"LONG TIME AGO!!!!" One of my Hondas is a 1987 model, it's the newest one I've ever owned, it's got all this modern electronic ignition gubbins. You've just made a happy man feel very old.
57
« on: July 16, 2023, 10:59:41 AM »
Have just been messing around on the DVLA site, and seen this is still alive!! I bought KLC 12K new in Dagenham. Sold it in 1974 to get thew readies for marriage. Daft or what???
58
« on: June 25, 2023, 07:41:24 PM »
If it's any consolation, about 2 years ago my front guard was starting to rust/laminate in the usual spot around the brace. I consider myself to have been very fortunate that it had lasted that long, but I had had it re-chromed to a high standard about 8n years prior to this. I contacted the man who organised my re-chroming to be told that metal repairs and further chroming costs had gone ballistic. Lo and behold, Fleabay were offering a brand new genuine Honda one, still in its unopened packaging. I won the bid and paid silly money for it. Yes nice item, but we were still looking at 1970's Japanese chrome plating, which did not hold a candle to the finish on my rusting mudguard. The new guard was fitted, the guides for the speedo cable and brake pipe were very shoddy, and I used my original re-chromed stays which were far superior to the new items. Before you ask, the used guard and new stays have been sold, sorry. The DS pattern ones are made in the UK, I think. If so, I would not worry about looking for an OE item, the one I purchased cost a lot more than the DS guard. We love this pastime, don't we? Have fun, Mike.
59
« on: June 25, 2023, 04:21:35 PM »
In case you want to give yourself a heart attack!!!
60
« on: June 21, 2023, 02:00:14 PM »
Sorry mate, I have misled you. I just posted the info because I knew that they sold bulb holders. I'm lucky that I haven't had to replace mine yet.
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