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Messages - Bristolbadger
16
« on: February 10, 2023, 05:21:28 PM »
If it runs enough to get to Gloucester, bring it up on an arranged weekend, i have points of various makers and cap screws to suit
Thanks Bryan I hope to do a run to the Oily Rag HQ up there, soon as it warms up a tad. I'll be in touch mate, many thanks
17
« on: February 10, 2023, 05:20:12 PM »
It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears!
P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique 
Are you close to Roo? I don't mean do you love him but are you close in locale 
I've got to send Roo some stuff for his bike shortly so I could send a set of point screws down to him and you could pick it up from him or would you prefer them sent direct? You want just the 6 points screws? 4 for points, 2 for condensers or would you like the 3 outer plate screws as well?
Oh forgot to add, if you need a brand new points cover let me know, I have quite a few of them.
Yes please the full 9 screws would be amazing! Give them to Roo... he's my hero.. as are all of yous  Can pop a few quid over if you send me your deets too 
18
« on: February 10, 2023, 11:54:19 AM »
It just seemed to read that way Graham, put the plate in the middle of its adjustment and then use the point gap to time it up is how I read it
Any mention of a atrobe means timing to me, dwell meter would mean gap
Maybe you should pop around and show me how to set up points. Maybe my strobe light is no good. You could advise me on if i need a Hondaman box of tricks or that i need to change to electronic ignition. while you are here you could advise me on how to rebore cylinder's, insert valve guides, change valve seats, re grind valve seats to the correct spec, skim heads, alloy weld cases and do fin repairs and so on.
I would love someone to be able come and show me how to set the points and timing properly. But if there's a good tutorial (vid or other) somewhere that can be recommended in all ears! P.s Hackaweek was my original YouTube tutor so I used his technique
19
« on: February 10, 2023, 11:49:14 AM »
Surely you mean the gap is adjusted by using the points but the timing is set by using the backplates don’t you Graham?
Those are not genuine points BB, genuine points have a sort of chequerboard board finish on the surface plate, aftermarket points like those are well known for being hard to set correctly. Set to smallest allowable gap possible and they tend to just time up right then.
DS sells genuine ones for £30 each plus p&p
I’ve got some genuine points somewhere, £40 a pair and I’ll throw in some nice new stainless steel screws for the points plate for, rather chewed up those ones and the wrong type as well, should all be crosshead screws not flat bladed screws.
Not sure if the pic angle is confusing it but the 2-3 points don’t look right, there should be an insulating washer either side of the plate the wires are on, to keep the wires away from earthing out through the points plate.
Thanks guys all good info and you've confirmed what I thought about the aftermarket points and yes exactly that, trouble setting the timing even with minimum gap. I used a continuity tester buzzer initially then put a strobe on em... no expert but took my time and did the best I could and enjoyed decent running for 6 months. Thanks for the offer buddy, very kind. Could do with a nice set of screws for the plate and points tho, if you have a spare set to part with...? Roo has kindly offered me a great looking OE points and plate so will install that one as soon as I can and take my time setting things up. I also have a points cover in better nick, the anti-conductive paint that was a bit worn on my old one probably wasn't helping matters either 🫣
20
« on: February 09, 2023, 08:35:03 AM »
Does anyone have or can recommend where to get a new set of points please?
Cheers in advance
Here's what I've got to work with at present. Didn't seem to have the full adjustment to get them dialled in properly, so worked with what I could... Until I think the condenser on 1-4 packed up and has burnt the points. Might be salvageable but don't think these are great anyway. Daiichi logo on them if that counts for much  
21
« on: February 09, 2023, 08:31:09 AM »
Does anyone have or can recommend where to get a new set of points please?
Cheers in advance
23
« on: December 01, 2022, 11:10:33 AM »
That casting type was on the end of SOHC production (750 F2, CB650 I think) then on following twin cam bikes.
150ml not a bad start point if you can't find information as it's not absolutely critical.
Minimum has to still cover damper valves (with spring volume in the fork cavity ) such that it doesn't go into air and not damp. Maximum is more to do with air gap above the oil and going too high here will give hydraulic lock to prevent fork compression.
This Maximum is usually considered adjustable in level if you want for example to give more air spring effect at full compression in preventing bottom out under heavy braking. Tweaks of 10ml going upward from 150 ml would be normal to assess. Or measuring down from top of stanchion with a dipstick to set that way.
The 750 F2 manual states 145~155 cc fill volume.
Great stuff, just the info I was hoping for. I was thinking F1 but the workshop manual wasn't definitive... Mucho gratis!
24
« on: December 01, 2022, 07:41:06 AM »
Morning all. Hoping someone might be able to shed some model specific light on these please. Had to rebuild them again after a leaky left one and ideally need to know how much oil they need from scratch. It might be a bit to worn inside the case and that's my trouble, not the Pyramid oil seal... will soon see. 585mm stanchions. Cheers 
25
« on: November 28, 2022, 03:12:55 PM »
Did you win it?
I certainly did, rude not too at that price  Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
26
« on: November 28, 2022, 10:49:17 AM »
27
« on: November 23, 2022, 06:28:24 PM »
28
« on: November 23, 2022, 06:22:49 PM »
Looking for a less battered one than mine... It looks like a soldiers mess tin! What's anyone got? Don't have to be orig but just good condition and cheap(ish)  Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
29
« on: July 17, 2022, 02:28:52 PM »
... No not literally but this image has helped me out a bunch of times. Hope you find it as much help too  As you were  Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
30
« on: June 08, 2022, 07:53:44 AM »
If you PM Nurse Julie she will have some good secondhand ones that have been softened 
Will do, thanks Trigger! Sent from my SM-A515F using Tapatalk
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