Honda-SOHC

As I am banned from the garage I've started to plan ahead for stuff I want to sort next week - my mudguard stays are going to be fine using Julies wrestling tip as 3 out of 4 are now fine.

This has me thinking about fitting the headlamp in the best position in the absence of the correct fork ears.
My after market headlamp brackets are already loosely in place with the indicators etc - the brackets jut out from the forks about the same distance as original fork ears so it's the best up/down measurement I'm after.

Just need a reference point for the height of the headlamp bowl side bolts to a suitable point - like the lower fork clamps to get it close to where it should be.
I can't measure the height to the floor as the suspension is jacked up with no front wheel in place.
Also aware that the Speedo/Rev counter fitting might be easier before I set the height..

As a reminder this is Cyclops face before I had to remove the forks to sort out some stripped threads - I suspect the lamp is too high in the picture - does it matter are there considerations i'm missing.

.first mock up by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Great Video Paul - love the Moto Morini 500 - Silk were made local to me in Darly Abbey but never saw one back in the day - iirc the factory was part of the old Darley Mills.,

Thinking ahead to the rebuild what’s the deal with cam chain ? I plan to to put crankcases together with engine upside down to avoid the difficulties with selector forks and bearing pins. Will the cam chain stay on the crankshaft teeth during the rebuild or do I have to find a way to keep it tensioned, including refitting the barrels,  so it doesn’t drop off the crank and get all messed up?

When I was rebuilding my 400 I made a simple wooden support made from offcuts to hold the top case upside down. The first picture was taken before I added an extra shaft of wood. The case was supported either side od the face where the studs fit - I used a short length of left over plastic drain pipe to act like the camshaft as it rested on the head studs.

Its lighter/easier  to fit the engine into the frame before you fit the block & head.


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casings before stripping paint by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

.Top casing bolts by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
51215030361_81a76ec82e_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

51387518187_e6193f7eeb_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
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51388278441_de81522bcd_o by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

I know I have the screw so I assume I bought the ramp from you  Ken?
I do not have a list of parts on my new parts box yet.

Yes Ian it could be a coincidence but - I suspect that as the fork bridge only has the larger holes on the right side that needs the top hat arrangement this means the mudguard fitting is like an original 400 on the left side so any problems will be pushed over to the right.

If the stay end finish was as it should be there would be no issues imho.

Still it is what it is so I will do some fettling to make the errant right rear stay  fit when SWMBO allows me to sort it. Not keen on the DS idea to fit washers - I would need something like an 18mm o/d washer with a 6mm bolt hole would probably need to be 2mm thick to be an effective fix. I would then want to fit them to all four ends so it looked right - your solution looks the best way forwards methinks.


 

That is the issue Ken  the stay end section is made up of two parts - the outer part is fashioned from the stay itself with a plate  at the back  effectively  a re-enforcement plate.

The original stays are the same except both parts are the same width - if the rear re-enforcement was the same size as the front it would be all good.

In the photo you can see my bolts, a washer, top hat  - the next bit is the front part of the stay end the wider section at the back is the re-enforcement plate.

"To me it looks like the stay is not one piece of metal but 2 stuck together? with the back piece not being ground down before chroming so it matches the front piece." CORRECT KEN

This is original stay below,
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PXL_20230427_143930802 by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

Tried that K2-,K6 the top hat would need to be a lot thicker to give enough clearance.

I've sent a message with photo to DS I hope they are just a poor batch of stays - I will update with the response.

I have seen members bikes for sale here in the past - not an everyday occurrence - I understand an asking  price should be shown.