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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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6091
« on: November 05, 2020, 08:00:27 AM »
I have to really admire the skill of the members here who lace their own wheels. When riding at say 70 mph I would have that little bit of my brain thinking - did I tighten them all properly? It's the same part of my brain that holds all my what if fears in check - well mostly anyways.
That said I personally draw the line at some DIY skills - I don't weave my own Wicker Baskets or spin my own Cotton - I will buy the skill of wheel building - nay the Art Form that is wheel building when needed from the likes of Central Wheel Components.
As a result of the various posts here on wheel building I have tried to convince my younger brother (62) that he should build his own bike wheels so far without success.
6092
« on: November 05, 2020, 07:50:21 AM »
I used a Vernier Gauge courtesy of Aldi that I bought from the Man aisle about 5 years ago - I finally got to use it for something useful.
Humans & their Gadgets eh.lol
6093
« on: November 04, 2020, 03:37:45 PM »
Trigger is your man for the best way forward.
6094
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:42:50 AM »
6095
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:41:29 AM »
That's what I call a fizzer joke the humour builds up over time as the penny drops - love it! 
6096
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:39:27 AM »
This is my left side part engine cover that hides the starter motor and front chainwheel gear etc.  before by Teddy Bagshaw, on Flickr This is the paint finish after stripping and rubbing down with 1200 grit. Just needs oven baking tomorrow when I can use the oven more freely if you get my drift.  after by Teddy Bagshaw, on Flickr
6097
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:29:55 AM »
TBH I think chrome mudguards like the wire wheels are part of the beauty of retro bikes.
PS I'm not a purist.
6098
« on: November 04, 2020, 10:17:02 AM »
If the headlamp shell is made of plastic you need a flexible paint for plastics or it will crack badly over time.
The flexible paints tend to be quite expensive - not sure if they are available in rattle cans. I would use a local automotive firm who paint bumper sensors they will match any paint code and are not as pricey as you might think.
In Derby we have Chartwells a high end vehicle repairers as well as a variety of Smart Mobile Repairers that paint plastic bumpers etc on a regular basis.
6099
« on: November 03, 2020, 08:41:11 PM »
I would rock the bike gently from side to side as you switch on the fuel - this might avoid unnecessary flooding due to the float needles being slightly stuck in the down position if the floats are dropped down from the normal position.
I was on the verge of taking my carbs off when they flooded on my first try to run the engine - did the side rocking and all was good - they have not flooded since - its easy to jump to conclusions about the cause of flooding especially if you have re-set float levels or done a carb strip down.
I checked my cold compressions after 12 years of not running - the good thing was they were all pretty much the same a not very inspiring 80 psi with the inlets plugged up!
After unplugging the inlets I tried to check the compressions again first two read 110 psi - then the gauge broke - it was a 50 year old Crypton Unit with a cracked housing and the rubber tapered end fell to bits! I plan to check them again with a cheap unit I bought on e-bay for £10.99 - the kit is better than I expected for the price.
My late fathers doctrine was don't check compressions if you do not have a problem as you will always be disappointed in the result!
True compression test is when the engine is up to running temperature of course.
6100
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:34:37 PM »
I'm awaiting delivery of a set of front & rear wheel hubs I've bought on e-bay for the 400/4.
I wonder if a trip to Central Wheel Components could be classed as an essential journey assuming of course that they are open for business next week.
6101
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:26:20 PM »
6102
« on: November 01, 2020, 10:53:41 PM »
What's the decal like on top, the OE one is a sort of pressed metal plate, I suspect that will be a decal on silver foil.
My old one has slightly raised silver metal surround around the individual warning lamps plus the outline of the whole unit. The DS one is not raised as you say it's just a foil transfer so it looks the same but lacks any depth of field. Luckily the individual colored warning lamp lenses seem solid enough. Nothing like an OEM replica the description High Quality is in my view journalistic licence. At £19.99 it would be okay but for £58.80 in my view it very overpriced. I don't object to a high price if the quality is there. It is certainly making me re-think items such as handlebar switchgear - genuine only if needed methinks.
6103
« on: November 01, 2020, 04:55:28 PM »
I've not fitted it in position yet just unwrapped it and was underwhelmed with how thin & cheap it felt. It's a really bright shiny plastic case. Maybe it needs weathering in.
6104
« on: November 01, 2020, 02:25:10 PM »
Twas ever thus! For some reason many products are to be found cheaper in the USA, but when you take into account cost of shipping and duties it seldom makes the effort worth while.
The USA doesn't have 20% Vat or UK Business rates to contend with.
6105
« on: November 01, 2020, 11:29:17 AM »
https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB400F-SUPER-SPORT-FOUR/part_82422/A couple of weeks ago I received the above "High Quality Aftermarket Direct Replacement" from DS and I am disappointed in the Quality aspect - is it just me as it seems a very cheap looking casing? As I never had a CB400/4 back in the day am wondering if I expected too much or has the old casing aged to make it appear different?
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