Honda-SOHC

Unfortunately, I can't get a key - because there's no number on the switch. I was hoping that the steering lock/seat lock key (which had visible same numbers) would fit, but no such luck

Ah I thought you were just trying to get one key to fit all - methinks you will need to buy a replacement switch.

I've been looking for a torque setting for the above nut - does 30Lb-ft sound about right?

I'm no expert but the one I recently installed none of them had that "Notch" , looks a bit ragged in zoom to be there by design , I stand to be corrected but looks like something's been forced in there!

Except for the narrower friction disc they all have the notch marking. Not the best (angled) photo  tbh but they are all marked the same I have arranged them so they are all notch/indentation  side out together so as to speak in the basket slots. The new DS clutch friction plates have the same markings.

Assembled the clutch basket today I have the flat edge of the plain metal discs facing the engine with the notch marked discs all facing outwards and together. The smaller friction disc is against the retaining clip. All looks good and now fitted to the bike, dished washer facing out, lock washer in position,

Just one question about the castellated lock nut - the old one was plain side out with the beveled side against the lock washer - facing the engine.

Is this the right way round before I fasten up and fit the springs etc?

It sits between and the frame and the tank mounting rubber LH side.

I think that's the same place as the Honda CB400F2 - mine is missing - it might be in a box of odds & ends I got with the bike!

Assembled the clutch basket today I have the flat edge of the plain metal discs facing the engine with the notch marked discs all facing outwards and together. The smaller friction disc is against the retaining clip. All looks good.

I've dismantled the camlifter clutch operating unit in the clutch cover case - the bit with 3 large ball bearings fitted with a bearing race holder thing. It looks badly worn but looking at pictures they all look strange in that the balls sit in an oval looking recess. DS says parts not available but their pictures show a worn like oval seat  so I guess its the design!

The smaller one will be facing you when all the plates are in situ in the basket. Make sure the steel plates all have the bevel facing out and the flat side facing in.

Sorry if I sound dense but...... if I understand you right the smaller one goes into the splined inner part of the cage hub first so that when its got all the other parts in place and you fit it into the outer cage its the one one now outside of the assembly facing you?

Or to put it another way as the outer cage sits on the bike the smaller one goes in last if you can/could fit all the parts that way ?

I think the penny has dropped I've just noticed the special circlip that I suspect is the reason it has the smaller friction plate.

It does not help that the previous owner had obviously had the clutch in bits so I am reluctant to rely on how it was previously assembled as the clutch action was none existent.

In my youth I only ever owned two Hondas, my Mum would go crazy over the oil leaks on my bikes - the biggest offender being my first Triumph 21 (102ETF). My first Honda was the standard Honda 250 Dream circa 1963/4 model VRM was 2462YG. It never dripped  any oil a mate offered me quite a profit to me to buy it from me - so I sold it as I was a student with a cash deficit.

I bought another Triumph 21 it had the bathtub front & rear mudguards removed with cut back alloy ones fitted - mechanically it was ace and looked more up to date and was dirt cheap £35. My parents moved house into the countryside, I passed my car test so the Triumph was sold to be replaced a year or so later with the above Honda 250 SS. At that time I was working in Ellesmere Port at a chemical plant (Associated Octel) that made the lead additive for petrol (Tetraethyl Lead).

I commuted every weekend from Chester YMCA back to Derby on the Honda 250 Super Sport - there was no M6 back then (1967) it was all A & B roads - if the wind was against me I had to drop the Honda one or even two gears to maintain over 60 mph.  She never failed to start on first press of the button - one thing I do remember was it never sounded as revy as it actually was due to the 180 degree crank. This configuration means there are two firing strokes close together (half a revolution appart)with a gap of one and a half revs before it fires again. Once you lift the revs you effectively only hear half the revs as the two firings are so close together when hitting 9,000 rpm it sounded more like 4,500 rpm. This may be untrue but it was the theory I cam up with at the time. The other great thing about these Hondas were that they were quiet - so didn't offend neighbours!