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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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6241
CB500/550 / Re: H4 headlight straining 15A fuse?
« on: August 31, 2020, 02:30:40 PM »
Sye... whilst power divided by volts indeed gives amps it’s not the full story when resistance is then bought into the equation. Your post fails to explain why lamps brighten as you increase the voltage - which you’ll know from 1st hand experience. The current (A) actually increases as you increase the voltage through the filament...the power rating of a lamp will be only be valid at the stated voltage .
Anyways, please don’t take my word on it, but rather google the explanation.

Yea, Deltarider, horses for courses. I’m gonna take a punt on the LED headlamp bulb, and will report back in due course. They annoyingly come in pairs... so if fail early I’ll have a spare 😂.


Trig... you say you’ve got LED replacement ‘globes’.... how are they performing?


I have had the cob type fitted to a 750 and a 550 for about a year or so and the 750 is just over a couple of thousand miles, since fitted with no problems. They are white light and not the yellow light you get from basic H4's.
I bought a trade pack of them and they worked out around £3 per bulb. I am no expert when it comes to electrics and can't understand why some of them have a cooling fan (which will not fit in the headlight bowl) and the cob type don't.



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I bought some of these bulbs by following the link that trigger posted.... that particular item was sold out but i did manage to find an exact same item for something like £1.98 each iirc. So i bought 3. They were due to arrive in mid sept but actually turned up in about 3 or 4 days, so i fitted them yesterday and they work and look great. I put one in each of the yamaha’s but kept the third as a spare since it wont fit in the Honda as it is still running the original sealed beam type unit and i would need to buy a replacement shell to fit it... prefer to keep her original if i can.. But if and when it ever fails i will definitely go with the leds.. at 6 quid for 3 bulbs its a no-brainer!

I have had quite a range of LED bulbs & lamps over the last 5 years or so - maybe things are improving with quality now but my early experience was that within 6 months -or  much less in some cases  LED clusters would either start strobing, flashing or just pack up completely. Depending on your MoT station retrofitting of LED bulbs can be an automatic fail especially if the dip cut off is poor.

6242
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-4-Side-LED-Headlight-660W-72000LM-Bulb-Kit-9006-9005-H4-HB2-9003-H7-H8-H9-H11/233294327251?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I upgraded our old Jeep WJ with some LED bulbs I purchased from e-bay the Jeeps have some weird bulbs so it took me a while to find the right type of H4 without Canbus they were about £15.00 for a pair. Mine have a variant 9005 & 9006 our other Jeep has straight H4's. Luckily plenty of room behind our lamps for the quite large alloy heat sink that has a small fan built into it. My bulbs came with adapters so no change of wiring was required for the Jeep.

I will certainly look at fitting this type of bulb as they use less power than a standard QI H4 bulb and push out a whopping amount of high frequency white light with a slight tinge of blue but not enough to detract. Unfortunately there is quite a lot lost in translation they are about 66 Watts including the fan not 660 Watts as stated. Our old bulbs would usually blow every 18-24 months so far I am not sure if the claimed lifespan is true. To date they have been in place for 8 months or so with no issues.

6243
DOT 5 Silicone is what we use in all of ours now Ted.

Wow I didn't think anyone would be using Silicone based brake fluid in a motor cycle presumably that is for using in a system that has no remaining Glycol-based fluid such as Dot 4.0.  Are the existing seals suitable or do you have to upgrade for Silicone based fluid? 

I believe Dot 5.1 is a synthetic Glycol-based fluid with slightly higher boiling point than Dot 5.0 but is still hygroscopic whereas Silicone isn't of course.

6244
Project Board / Petrol Tank fuel tap removed.
« on: August 31, 2020, 12:29:51 PM »
As the petrol tap seemed to be unable to pass the blow test I removed it to find the strainer had been damaged  & put back all twisted, the top of the tap was solid with crud and perished rubber.

I still have more rust to remove from inside but clearly if new bits can't be purchased for the tap will have to shell out for a replacement.
I'll put some of my silver gravel in again and do the shakey, shakey, shake routine until my arms ache.
 
Any advice as to best source for a replacement is it DS or DS for a petrol tap ?
Cheap one below knowing my luck it will not fit thought the CB400F2 is listed as suitable.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Honda-Petrol-Tap-Fuel-Petcock-CM185-CM200-XL100-CB400-XL125-XL175-XL185-XR/272559859130?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649




6245
No it can't be a Virago as its not a V Twin this must have been a different holiday methinks with hindsight.

Looks more like a CD250U engine in that one,  commonly known on here as Trigger's favourite  :D

Well crucial shorts though  ;D

Blame the wife for the shorts she used to be in charge of holiday clothing!

6246
If it was Crete, here is a health and safety photo from about the same era.
       

It was definitely Crete as in our younger days we could't afford car hire so despite the danger it was always a bike! 8)

6247
CB350/400 / Re: DS replacement petrol tanks question.
« on: August 31, 2020, 06:20:36 AM »
Thanks for that information it's reassuring that they may have fixed the problem by now. Shaving a bit of the mounting rubbers doesn't sound too bad but it presumably puts the coils slightly closer to the tank as well.

At least its an option if I need to take it.  My Yamaha XJ900F had the dreaded multiple pin hole leaks  - bought a genuine tank that came fully painted & striped in original colours cost a hefty £435 in 2000. I used Wynns Dry Fuel every winter after that as prevention.

6248
So no dissenters / views  on brake fluid specifications probably not an issue on motor cycles then or I have posted in the wrong section. :-\ :-\

6249
CB350/400 / DS replacement petrol tanks question.
« on: August 30, 2020, 07:36:49 PM »
I'm hoping my petrol tank will clean up okay - "hoping for the best but planning for the worst". That got me looking at the DS replacement option a hefty £282 in primer.

I seem to think I have read somewhere on this site someone having issues with the quality of the fit to the original mountings is this the case or was it a one off ?


6250
No it can't be a Virago as its not a V Twin this must have been a different holiday methinks with hindsight.

6251
Yes the HA had the Sardine Can Top to the wings it was the later HB that was rounded.
I took my test in my Dad's Company car an almost new Vauxhall FC 101 Victor Deluxe same type of wings as HA!

My bike doesn't look like a genuine Honda Blue colour for a CB 400 anyone know if its a Honda shade ?

6252
Yeah I had ankle socks on - its a Brit thing or at least it was 33 years ago or thereabouts 8).

Not even sure it was a Virago now unless it was a Greek Version or should I say Geek Version.

6253
Came across this of me trying to look cool on a hired bike!

Crete by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr

6254
The HA Van & Vivas were very quick 0-15 mph then it was game over  - no stopwatch needed for 0-60 times more like a calendar.

Back to the build my first hurdle when looking to start the engine was that the throttle was solid it would not open the main throttle as all the slider things were seized solid. The seller assured me he had cleaned out all the carburetors but that must have been a decade earlier.

When I stripped down the carburetors all four of the  main throttle valves were stuck solid in the closed position. Not wanting to damage anything I released the first one using the wife's nail varnish remover - this worked quite easily but the other three did not respond to the same solvent.

To release the remaining three I fully immersed them in fresh petrol in a Tupperware container fitting the lid and soaking for 48 hours. This worked fine on two but for the last one I replaced the fuel again leaving to soak fully submerged for another couple of days. After a bit of heat from an old Hair Dryer when the fuel had evaporated the last one came free. All rebuilt last week after a slow start when I tried to fit a jet into the place where the float valve clamp screw fits.lol The parts were all cleaned in my Brother-in-Laws Ultrasonic Bath - its done a fair job I have to say though he did say that there were other ways costing more money to return them to almost as factory  new. At present I have not explored this route as I am not looking for show standard just a good working bike. I fear this might change if I see too many mint 40 year old bikes.

I pushed the boat out and bought a Dynatek Electronic Ignition Set with Coils etc - I have fitted this just need to set the static timing when I am nearer trying to start her up. Coils were an easy fit using the old coil mounts with a bit of modification with a junior hack saw & drill driven cutting wheel. - they clear the fuel tank so so far so good.

Carbs now re-fitted at present using the existing throttle cables for the initial start up phase. I'm waiting for some fuel hose - I will use this time to clean the petrol tank a bit more. My heart sank when I first looked inside the tank but after putting in some Turps substitute (rather than water) and some 2-3 mm grade silver plant gravel its cleaned up enormously after some shaking sessions.
What colour by Macabe Thiele, on FlickrRusty tank as usual by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr





6255
CB750 / Re: Engine full of fuel and seized up
« on: August 30, 2020, 12:41:10 PM »
I'm gutted for you as I understand it you have had plugs out, drained the sump and its still solid - that sounds serious.
When you removed the oil filler cap did flud run out then?
Not sure from your description if you cranked the engine with the electric start or with the kickstart it needs a fair bit of pressure to bend a con rod.

I've seen flood damaged engines on Petrol & Diesel engines from when I worked at local MB dealership for 11 years - they tend to bend and often snap con rods or push them through the block as well as piston & valve damage. That said the damage was done when the engine was running. i would expect your damage to be more limited as it was done when attempting to start the engine so less force in play.

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