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Topics - smoothoperator
16
« on: September 16, 2021, 05:23:07 PM »
The bearing in my clutch lifter plate is a bit gritty to turn, I am having a go at cleaning it but if I choose to replace it, how easy is it to get out and how? CMS have a replacement (koyo 16003) at £20 but SKF do one at £10.
17
« on: September 12, 2021, 05:29:18 PM »
Before I put the crankcase halves together, I'd like to make sure I have this circlip in correctly. Is it OK as is or should I place it so that the holes in the circlip are under the groove, away from the open area? My thoughts are that it is OK where it is. It is the left hand primary shaft bearing in the lower half case.
18
« on: July 09, 2021, 05:20:43 PM »
Rebuilding my engine and I'm looking for a way to mark nuts etc that have been tightened, too many paint pens to choose from, but can anyone recommend one or some alternative?
19
« on: June 30, 2021, 04:24:00 PM »
Can someone confirm that on the 400 the shafts should have the threaded end face outwards to enable extraction with a bolt? Just removed mine and they are all facing inwards, I'm guessing P/O thought they might gain some mileage by swapping them around? I plan to put them back in with the threads facing outwards. There is no obvious difference in the amount of ware, whichever way round they go.
21
« on: March 03, 2021, 03:54:53 PM »
A couple of questions on the silencer and headers. The silencer is in reasonable condition but I'm struggling to remove it from the headers, any tips welcome. I plan to get the headers rechromed, there is a dint on the underneath of one of them, otherwise they seem OK. Can a braze repair be used to fill the dint or is it best left alone? Also, how much prep should I do on the headers regarding the corrosion near the top of them? Images https://photos.app.goo.gl/1NzzKNfENJQkwMsc6
22
« on: November 09, 2020, 05:18:57 PM »
I'm researching this topic and finding that there is a lot of information, so I'll keep looking. In the meantime could anyone shed some light on a couple of points? Current situation is that kill switch doesn't kill the engine in either of the off positions. Can I test its function without actually firing the engine up, which is tricky at the moment because of intermittent fuel overflow. I have a multi meter. I haven't found a black/white wire in the headlamp shell as yet. As I understand things this wire routes to the coils, so with the ignition on I'd expect to see a voltage, but where to measure it? Looking at stripping the r/h switch unit but even removing this is looking tricky to me at the moment, with wire tight into the handlebars, throttle cables to disconnect and handlebar to remove there is quite a bit to learn. I'm a bit baffled at the moment, any help would be appreciated.
Just noticed the loom from the handlebars routes to underneath the tank so I can eliminate searching in the headlamp shell.
23
« on: November 06, 2020, 06:22:24 PM »
This was owned from new by a mate of mine who I've got back in touch with since I started my project. It was last MOT'd in 2019 @30,600 miles so there has to be a chance someone on the forum owns it. Fingers crossed. If it's yours I can tell you how it came by a broken fin!
24
« on: October 25, 2020, 06:38:47 PM »
I took the right footrest off to gain access to the clutch casing. I was moving it up and down and it was clicking up into the locked position. After doing this about 3 times it stopped clicking and is now floppy. Can anyone tell me if something is missing or if the thin metal spring type thing is in the wrong position? If something did fly off then I 'll scout the garage floor again, but it would be useful to know what I'm looking for. Pictures https://photos.app.goo.gl/DKjoVJ9uBHwyrR4h9
25
« on: October 10, 2020, 06:28:40 PM »
Bought as a runner but not a roller. Went to see the bike before bidding and thought it looked about right for a restore. Plenty to do but on the face of it not a basket case. Engine was demonstrated and started and ran well. Advertised cam chain rattle didn't seem that bad to my, untrained ear. Looked carefully at the crankcase, cam adjusting bolt is snapped off. Signs of oil leak on rhs, confirmed now it's home but it's small. Petrol tap wept whilst it was running. History is interesting as the previous owner had it since 1980 and stored it for much of that time. Oil on dipstick is very clean. Came with a Haynes manual which has clearly been well thumbed by oily fingers and includes hand written notes in a number of the sections. Small box of bits included 1 valve and a set of rocker arms. Receipts show some head work was done including 1 inlet and 1 exhaust valve, in 1981. In the same year it was also treated to a new OEM silencer at £45, which sounds very expensive given the date. Still has OEM silencer, well anyway it says HONDA on it I haven't looked too closely yet.
So anyhow plan is initially to get it rolling as well as running. I've fixed the leaking fuel tap and I'm Evaporust treating the tank which is in pretty good condition really. I've installed a Motobatt MB12U having scoured these pages even though I have a bottle of 1.28SG battery acid in my garage the last 20 years and I still don't get to use it.
Front brake is the current job. Master cylinder is not original I think because there is a manky old spare one in the bits box. The one on the bike is not delivering fluid to the brake caliper. I'm currently working on the spare to see if I can get the piston out of it. It also has a broken mirror stem in it, which I see as potential good practise for removing future horrors. Perhaps someone can tell me if it is the original?
Looking ahead, can anyone recommend me an impact driver? Open to hit with hammer or electric, anything that works really. I have bought a Vessel JIS impact screwdriver No2 but I'm not convinced it's right for some of the bigger screws that are a bit gnarly.
26
« on: September 16, 2020, 03:21:02 PM »
27
« on: September 09, 2020, 05:02:51 PM »
Hi everyone. Just joined the forum so here's my introduction. Vintage, well my first bike was a Raleigh Chopper, first moped a Puch Maxi and first motorbike a Yamaha RD200. Looking from what I've seen so far makes me a typical new member! Moving on, current bike is a Triumph T100 that I bought new 3 years ago. Recently finished converting my Kona bike to mid mount ebike. It's already faster than my Puch ever was. Now retired and looking for a project with much greater longevity and challenge. So I haven't bought the bike yet. I'm looking for a 400/4, but will consider 550 or 750. Looking at ebay there are just a handful of candidates. Any advice welcome. Some thoughts so far. Only place I have looked as yet is ebay, is there somewhere else I should be looking? I've seen complete bikes looking tatty/reasonable around 2 to 3K. By 4k they look too good to need restoring although I'm sure some do! A dissembled fairly complete bike ending soon currently around 1K, better to buy a complete bike I think due to the fun of disassembly and the learning to be gained. I really want one that would benefit from a complete engine rebuild as I see that as the right level of challenge. Any pitfalls, newbie mistakes or money pit avoidance ideas and general advice really welcome. Thanks for taking the time to read this and looking forward to your ideas.
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