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Messages - 400 Cafe Racer
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31
« on: December 04, 2021, 08:09:30 PM »
Super interesting that, keep us posted on next setting results please. I have a Steeldragon air box coming from the states and although not the same, its sill not a standard thing so any info gleaned from your posts is very useful, and potentially a good starting point for me.
Hi Laverdaroo, Got around to doing the final Carb settings today. Recap: K&N Pods. fitted to Standard Carbs. New jetting to - Idle 40, with mixture screw 1.75 turns out on all Carbs. Main jet 85 Needle position in slide Clip Lowered by one notch from middle, ie 1 notch richer The results are giving AFRatio readings of between 11.7 and 12.4, which is just where I needed them to give best power, torque and cooler running. I am well pleased after investing the time in the multiple "strip and reset" project on the carbs and these will remain my final settings. I hope this post may prove helpful to other members. Cheers   Dennis
32
« on: November 22, 2021, 10:23:32 PM »
Hi Norniron, Thanks for your reply. I am currently doing some tests on different positions and different jet settings using the A/F meter (Air Fuel ratio measurement) under live running conditions. As you can appreciate, every change of needle position or jet means, seat, tank and carbs all have to be removed and carbs stripped to make the changes. Then on refitting etc carbs all need to be re-syncronised and adjusted. Not a quick job , but it is worth it. 1. I initially tried the carbs as the PO had them set, just checking and correcting float levels and correcing the dynamic timing when I rebuilt the engine. The outcome was reasonable torque and power, but mixture generally smelling too rich, some smelling in the oil and readings of about 9.8 :1 and 10.2 :1 throughout the range and some plug fouling occasionally. Clearly far too rich. 2. Next test. Change main jet from 95 to 85. Result was good torque and power, with 12 :1 AFR on full throttle and between 10.9 to 11.2 :1 on 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Still a tad too rich. 3. Previously set on one slot lower/richer than normal, I decided to try the middle notch setting and in testing found it slightly erratic reading between 13.1 :1 and 14 :1 on all openings between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle. I found the engine a little less smooth on acceleration, with a drop in torque and power, plus an increase of approx 10 degrees in engine running/oil temperature. Not happy with this setting, but made a valuable discovery while setting the needles lower. I think the erratic reading and less smoothness were pre-ignition, which also affected engine temperature. I started with No1 carb going to the centre notch, then 2 &3 BUT when I got to No4 I had slight difficulty getting the assembly apart to gain access to the needle. The reason was that the needle and clip were fitted ABOVE the clamping plate, instead of beneath it in the recessed portion for the clip. This meant that this carb needle was the equivalent of about 3 to 4 notches too rich. 4. The next test will be with the needles 1 notch lower (richer) than standard where the best torque and power were found, as on test 2. With the needle in No4 carb now seated correctly this should address the previous slight overall richness. Ideally I am looking to set up for between 11.8 and 12.7 where the best power with cooler running should be. This will not give best consumption but will be kinder on the pistons. Due to working on front forks it will be a few days before I re-test. Cheers Dennis
33
« on: November 16, 2021, 05:11:51 PM »
I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ??
Dennis
Yes Dennis, I think it's the price we pay for having everything all tucked away, out of sight, neat and tidy. Many years ago I owned a CB750 K2, and the clutch cable was routed down one of the front down tubes, tucked in nicely between Nos. 3 & 4 Header pipes, under the points cover, and entered the clutch housing next to the lower frame tube. For relaxation these days, I am playing with a 1966 CL160, nice long sweeps on cables, all visible, and out of harms way. The instruction book even tells you that you can oil these cables, how quaint!!! Just to finish off my rant, the ONLY piece of plastic on this machine is the rear light lens. Such is progress eh?
The natural position now for my cable without it going through the loop is just about 1" to the right and 1/2" higher than the loop, still beneath the tank, well clear of the cambox and in free air, so much cooler. Dennis
34
« on: November 16, 2021, 11:35:23 AM »
Looks like the bracket is discontinued it might be 45467-329-00 looks right as item 217 in parts book its next to 216 the cable guide 45466-329-000.
Description calls it a brake cable guide so maybe not?
Hi Ted, Here is a picture attached if it of any help. Dennis
35
« on: November 16, 2021, 11:09:41 AM »
I've got the chrome wire guide plus the so called insulated ring on top of the cambox to stop any physical contact 'twixt cable and head. Cable still needs replacing approx every two years. I think it's a case of "They all do that sir". Not ultra expensive to replace, just disconnect both ends, tie the new cable to the old one and heave! First use of a new cable is like having a new bike!
Do you think what I have experienced could be the cause of premature failure. ?? Dennis
36
« on: November 16, 2021, 11:07:19 AM »
Hi Dennis.
Not sure if your chrome guide has one fitted but the guide should have a heat insulator inside the guide to stop the cable coming in contact with the metal. Part number 45466-329-000, available from DS or CMS if you need one.
John
Hi Deano, Yes thanks, it has the insulator fitted, which I think avoids full heat transfer, but try touching it with a hot engine. I also felt that just holding the cable that close to the very hot cyl head with heat radiation was just a bad move and would heat the cable un-necessarily, when it could just be unclipped in free air. I took the evidence from my failed cable, which was in good condition apart from heat stress inside. Just my opinion FWIW. Cheers Dennis
37
« on: November 15, 2021, 08:20:25 PM »
Does the wire type clip near the offside tank rubber mounting hold just the throttle cables or is it okay to run the clutch cable through it?
My clutch cable route is down from the front lever through the gap between the front forks & speedo mount bracket - it passes past the front of the ignition switch and curves nicely via the clip to the clutch casing adjuster. I have a nice free operation but some pics seem to show the cable not running between frame & fuel tank.
Hi Ted, I think you are probably right to go with the sketch, but just for the record, I found my old cable had suffered severe internal friction/binding even though it would pass oil all the way through. The problem area was where it passes through the chrome guide on the cylinder head. My conclusion was excessive heat transfer from the cylinder head (very hot) at this one point, causing breakdown of the lining. Solution for me FWIW, route it just to the right of the guide and leave it free. I don't think it needs any extra support it is so rigid. No heat traansfer is then possible. Cheers Dennis
38
« on: November 15, 2021, 08:00:10 PM »
I think I'd have stopped at 2 gauges, oil pressure and volts. Both are useful to know. I can't see any reason for air/fuel or oil temp myself, if I want to know if the oils hot I just feel the engine, if I burn my hand, the oils hot 
Seriously though the position of the top 2 gauges is exactly where I also fitted mine in 1979, I mounted them in a sealed pod to stop rainwater getting on them, the oil pressure was useful BUT although you say you can keep an eye on them you don't really. I had an oil filter collapse on the motorway, this resulted in severe loss of oil pressure and the first real warning was the oil light not the gauge, your so busy with your eyes on the road at high speed you don't get a chance to look at the gauges except occasionally. The warning light though does attract your attention. Not detracting from the idea, just giving you real life feedback.
Hi Oddjob, Initially I was going to just put the OP gauge opposite to the AFR gauge, + the Voltmeter, but felt that a single gauge at the top of the cluster would be better balanced by a pair (as you did). The obvious addition for me was the Oil Temp gauge. Since using this set up, just glancing, you can see the direct relationship between O/Pressure and Oil Temp. As the Temp rises high, due to over thinning/viscosity of the oil, you can witness the change in max oil pressure and if necessary "cool down" things a little + no burnt hand.  She is a dry weather summer ride so heavy rain won't be an issue and the gauge faces are waterproofed, the set up suits me well and I am pleased with the outcome and feedback I get. I have retained the function of all the existing warning lights. The AF gauge as you know would have been an expense I probably wouldn't have gone to but was fitted by the PO, but its worth has been proven by objective measurement of combustion efficiency by analysis under all road conditions, as you can therefore check your carb setup for any speed and load without guess work. I used a similar system extensively when tuning multi carburetted sportscars long before Engine Management Systems were in use. Cheers Dennis
39
« on: November 15, 2021, 05:15:03 PM »
Some interesting modifications there. Unfortunately Anno Domini has dictated that I have to maintain the the normal riding position these days, thinking of erecting a hydraulic lift to get me off the bike at the end of a good day out!
At the risk of sounding "picky", I zoomed in on your pics and couldn't help noticing the angle of your gear change lever to your Johnson Rod/adjustment bar. It looks as though when making an upward change, the rod will perform a rearward and slightly upward motion, whereas the splined arm wants to go rearwards and downwards. Rather like the cases that used to be often seen on cable/rod drum brakes when the shoes were worn and all the slack had been used on the adjustment. Gave lots of feel, but no effect. Maybe it's possible to to move the operating arm round on the spline to a slightly more vertical position and lengthen the rod. Could possibly give a more precise feel to the gearchange. If it's a trick of the camera angle then I will eat a double portion of humble pie. Stay Safe. Mike.
Hi Mike, The angle of the pedal arm relative to the clevis pin fulcrum arm is fixed and so it's dictated by where I need the pedal for comfortable changes. I have set it so my toe is beneath the pedal while riding, only needing to flick up for upward changes. The splined arm on the engine is set to the most advantageous angle consistent with the length of adjustment available on the linkage. If you were designing new from the drawing board you could no doubt optimise the angles for a given bike. The ones fitted are TTR. I have found that since making my final adjustments and lengthening the toe pad by 30mm, that it gives a good feel to the two stage operation of the selector and drum rotation within the gearbox, allowing more finesse during gear changes. Thanks for you comment Dennis
40
« on: November 15, 2021, 04:59:43 PM »
Tidy looking instruments you have added there Dennis.
Thanks Ted and others, space is at a premium as you can see, but they all sit comfortably within the small central area. The AFR gauge is slightly larger in diameter so will not "sit" fully aligned like the others. Some people, generally engineers, or on racing vehicles, like instruments to know in advance of trends or potential problems or behavious within the engine, which can be detected in advance by changes in readings. Many vehicles with critical or important roles will have this sort of panel information. Uncharacteristic changes in engine oil temp, oil pressure or charging can be spotted and monitored, whereas with only warning lamps, its reached its critical limit before you know, and can be too late. The Oil Pressure light on the 400f does not come on until a drastic 4.5psi.. A little too late at 10,000rpm !!!!  With the Voltmeter I will always know the condition of the battery and charging. I find the bike fun to ride in its present form and character, its nice to hear that 400f do its workout. Since setting up the tuning better the engine is pullling 6th gear with very strong acceleration, almost like it needs a 7th and 8th gear. The better breathing of the engine and burning correctly the extra fuel of th 85 main jet has made the extra power possible. For me I am very happy to be better informed by the instrumentation, which was my objective and felt it may be of passing interest to others. Thanks Dennis
41
« on: November 14, 2021, 08:04:18 PM »
POST 2
42
« on: November 14, 2021, 08:03:29 PM »
Hi Guys,
Update. POST 1
After the engine rebuild I felt it was necessary to have some better feedback information to monitor the engine and decided on improved instrumentation.
The PO had fitted an Air/Fuel ratio meter. The new additions are, Oil Pressure Gauge, Oil Temperature Gauge and Voltmeter.
With careful planning while the unit was out, I managed to pick up the OP feed from the OP switch location, without any cutting of the casing.
Seating mods were to improve comfort from the 15mm plank foam. Rear set mods to the toe pedal to widen them to give better "feel" to gearchanges and braking. Daylight running lamp beneath headlamp.
Dennis
43
« on: November 14, 2021, 07:14:07 PM »
44
« on: November 14, 2021, 07:10:45 PM »
Dennis, some pics of exhaust side and "custom " wedge ! Note exhaust is reverse cone mega which is not standard.
Hi Bill, Thanks very much for the extra details showing the supports. Cheers Dennis
45
« on: November 14, 2021, 01:31:12 PM »
I have a ramp with the parallelogram type legs. Mine has a tendency to skid across the floor when pushing the bike up it. If I forget to move it back when lowering it. It sits nicely on the open draw of my brothers snap on tool chest that he dumped in front of it.
He didn't notice until the other day when moving it to his new place of work. He thinks that he must have done it loading it onto the van.
My garage floor is as bumpy as hell and it can be a real pig to move with a bike on it.
Hi Green 1, Thanks for posting, its good to know what pitfalls may exist for certain models and learn from your experience. Cheers Dennis
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