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Messages - 400 Cafe Racer
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61
« on: October 20, 2021, 07:30:17 PM »
Thanks for the update Oddjob, also thanks to Ash and everyone else, From what I can see from the small space down the inside of the Carb slide, the screw head looks like a P2 size. I have ordered the one I refered to on the link from Ash, since it was the last one in stock and one of the reviewers specifically refered to its usefulness on the Carbs. I will have to wait and see when it arrives, but will be a good addition to the tool kit in any event. The "T" bar JIS set I have with 6 bits has been really good on all other main casing screws, giving a good solid purchase even on some partly worn heads, with the T bar giving good stability and torque, while turning to tighten or loosen the screws. The shaft is just too bulky to fit inside the Carb slide for the main tapered needle notch adjustment job. For the benefit of the specific job of getting to and adjusting the Carb needle height, I will give feedback later which may help others. Cheers  Dennis
63
« on: October 19, 2021, 08:27:08 PM »
Hi Guys, I need to adjust the Carb needles onto the next slot down, the PO has set them too high and now float levels are correct its far too rich. He has lifted the needle 1 extra notch to gain more power, but they are far too rich on steady cruising. The A/F ratio is about 9.5:1, so I think they need to go back to the standard position. Having looked at the access within the slides there is little clearance to get a screwdriver blade of small diameter down to the JIS screws to be removed in order to change the needle height, it is also a bit difficult to judge the correct snug fit head size. The "T " bar JIS set I have is too wide to reach down, but the US Pro JIS screwdriver set looks a possibility. The heads of the screws look good, but they seem very tight. I just want to ensure everything is a good fit, rather than risk chewing the screw heads badly. Can you advise from your experience on the cabs, which is a good fitting tool/screwdriver please.  Many thanks Dennis
64
« on: October 12, 2021, 07:46:47 PM »
Hi Alan, " Lubricating Effect" I can see where you are coming from with respect to my Q1, since the 2 stroke is entirely dependent on the quality of the mixing to distribute its lubrication. With reference to my Q2. For 4 stroke use it could possibly be regarded as a form of "Redex", but with modern day benefits ?? Best wishes Dennis
65
« on: October 12, 2021, 07:22:22 PM »
Thanks for your inputs and responses guys. Let me throw another variable into my Curiosity question 1. What about petroil mix 2 strokes, do they suffer the corrosion problems or are they inhibited by the presence of Oil in the fuel. ? 2. Our mineral oil requirement for these Hondas can have an effect on the rate of upper cylinder / combustion chamber carbon deposits, as it does in many engines of that era. If the consensus on Q1 is positive, then why not add a small amount of the latest oils to the petrol, like Total INEO ECS that clean the combustion chamber and protect the catalitic converter. Clean engine and no rotted tank or Carbs, also acting as an upper cylinder lubricant UCL !! Thanks Dennis
66
« on: October 12, 2021, 07:19:15 PM »
I think the main problem is if you leave the bike standing for a length of time
Extended storage leads to the fuel absorbing water as its hydroscopic that then leads to rotted tanks as the water separates from the fuel and then sits in the bottom of the tank
Same happens in the carbs bowls that can rot brass ware etc
Also like it says seals need to be viton but is new to here so most older bikes are not e10 suitable due to older type rubber in use
Also hear that if left even in newer bikes if they are not used often the fuel will damage injectors as you cannot drain these for long term storage unlike good old carbs
I think for newer vehicles obviously the seals are compatible and the main thing is if it’s in regular use the fuel does not remain for long in the tank and other critical areas of the fuel system
Also not god for my RD35C either
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[/quote
67
« on: October 11, 2021, 09:22:21 PM »
When I used to rag the VFR up the strip up at 'Shaky' the times were always a bit better when there was super in the tank as opposed to the normal unleaded. Not sure if it's a chemical process thing or a mind thing but always filled up on the way in to make sure we had a full tank for the racing 
Hi Laverdaroo, Thanks. Sounds then in your experience performance-wise with the Honda, that there maybe some marginal benefits when pushing the engine at the limits. Cheers Dennis
68
« on: October 11, 2021, 08:21:51 PM »
Super all the way
Don’t do many miles in a year so extra cost is worth it and at the moment super in most areas is ethanol free still
Also we know e5 does cause issue on some rubber and plastic parts on older bikes and modern plastic fuel tanks so why take the risk?
Best wishes Al
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Thanks Alan & Julie, I fully agree with the thoughts on Ethanol. Although Super is possibly not strictly necessary on terms of the 400 Compression Ratio, I'm assuming that some of the higher grade refining of the Super might have some beneficial effects in the burn process, that one may have noticed in use. Has there been any apparent difference in your experience ? Thanks Dennis
69
« on: October 11, 2021, 07:25:36 PM »
Hi Guys, I know there are many long time 400F members out there having run their bikes for yonks on various Petrols. I'm interested to see which type of unleaded (Regular) or (Super) you settled on and why. ? Thanks Dennis
70
« on: October 06, 2021, 08:26:45 PM »
The rod does not move much for the blade to adjust quite a bit Ted
Hi Ted, Just started mine up Saturday after the rebuild. As others have said, with the new chain there is virtually no slack to take up when the tensioner bolt is released. I did double check mine after sorting out smooth idling on a warm engine, 1. by marking with a dab of paint where the head of the lock bolt is when "locked", 2. then releasing the lock with the engine idling, to let it settle and adjust itself, 3. then relocking the bolt to the painted mark (so you don't screw it in too far to bend the arm) 4. then finally tightening the locknut gently to lock the tensioner bolt. I'm sure you will be fine, just a few deep breaths and carry on mate. Dennis
71
« on: October 05, 2021, 08:33:38 PM »
It was a long time ago, late 70s or early 80s IIRC. The actual readings I don't accurately recall, more the position of the needle, IIRC the gauge went from 0-100 ( i just looked up a picture of one, I thought it went higher so that's why I said 80psi) and the needle used to sit almost vertical when running but a little past, which made me think 80psi sounded about right, but based on the pic 55-60psi is more accurate, it used to go down on tickover to approx 20psi and around 40psi when very hot but TBH it didn't sink that much as back then we all used 20/50 oil so it was thicker to start with.
Thanks Oddjob, Good info, useful to know your experience. The gauge was a regular and important feature of most sports and race engined vehicles and I felt sure that several out of all the 400 users would have fitted one at some point. I'm hoping there may be others to reply. Cheers
72
« on: October 04, 2021, 09:10:27 PM »
I had an amp meter and a oil pressure gauge mounted in a pod above the speedo/tacho so they were easy to see. The oil pressure take off was mounted where the current pressure switch was on a T piece so they both worked, it meant cutting out part of the chaincase guard but it did work.
Hi Oddjob, Can you remember what variations there were on your readings with a hot engine, or when idling etc. Interested to find our more. Thanks Dennis
73
« on: October 03, 2021, 07:41:11 PM »
Back in the day you could buy high pressure oil switches for a BMC Mini that went out when the engine was idling. Sometimes like a cylinder pressure gauge it's often best not to know. The factory dash oil pressure gauge on my W124 Merc had a maximum reading of 45 psi so anything higher was superfluece.
Hi Ted, Thanks. Reliable information is always good, so you always knew if anything changed on your Merc. According to Haynes manual it does not come on until until 4.3psi - in the danger zone, which leaves a lot to be desired in the way of information while riding, so it would be interesting to see users readings if possible.
74
« on: October 03, 2021, 07:02:11 PM »
Hi Guys, The idiot oil pressure light tells you very little. I wondered if anyone actually has an oil pressure gauge permanently fitted and what sort of readings are typical at different temperatures. Thanks Dennis
75
« on: September 29, 2021, 06:06:47 PM »
Hi Dennis,there are flat spots,but thats pods for you.
Plug colour is fine.
Obviously best set up is stock
Hi Norniron, Which needle notch did you find worked best on your set up please. Cheers Dennis
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