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Messages - ebmbiker
31
« on: February 25, 2022, 09:30:26 AM »
Cheers Nurse Julie 👍
PM sent
32
« on: February 25, 2022, 08:47:48 AM »
Good day folks,
Is there a UK source for aftermarket phosphor bronze swing arm bushes? I’ve seen those listed on eBay in Germany.
Cheers, JB
33
« on: February 18, 2022, 11:25:45 AM »
OK, I increased order by 1pc for you
Cheers Erny
34
« on: February 17, 2022, 01:42:44 PM »
Hello Erny,
I'll take one, please. Unless there are 2 in the rear hub, and then I'll take 2.
Cheers,
JB
35
« on: February 11, 2022, 12:41:44 PM »
Cheers for the drawings and info guys. This really is a very helpful forum!
I’ll try and find a 650 tensioner before I make the bracket. I reckon once everything is replaced in the primary drive it will be good for years to come as I won’t be doing lots of mileage. The one thing that I’m picking up from reading the posts on the forum is regular oil change, and using good quality oil.
36
« on: February 10, 2022, 05:04:32 PM »
Well I’m glad I showed you guys the damage. Is it worth getting the bad scar over the oil gallery built up with weld?
Oddjob, do you have a drawing of the 650 primary tensioner bracket mod you’d be willing to share? Machining is my background so I’m pretty sure I could make one.
Cheers, JB
37
« on: February 10, 2022, 09:59:38 AM »
Here's a photo of the marks in the lower case from the primary drive chain. Thoughts?
Cheers, JB [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
38
« on: February 10, 2022, 08:22:48 AM »
Phil pretty much nailed it.
Buy a set of JIS screwdrivers, most important thing. Also see if you can find them in socket version.
Camchain, genuine no longer available unless your lucky, I'm looking into whether you can use a DID 219FTH chain instead as it's stronger than the standard DID chain and cost is very low considering. Check tensioner blade, guide is usually ok, check tensioner adjuster screw slot, see if it's mangled.
Primary chain, buy the Kwack chain it's 92057-1011, half the price of Hondas and the same chain. Check the oil gallery running under the chain to see if the chain has been hitting it, replace the damper rubbers inside the primary drive hub, you'll need an impact driver to open that.
Check all roller bearings for notchiness and general motion. There are only 4.
Replace all o-rings and seals if possible, you'll need a rotor tool to remove the rotor to replace the one behind it or borrow one.
Check camshaft for wear on lobes and wear on journals, check the head for the wear as well. Check cam followers for wear, if in doubt post a pic on here for advice.
DON'T use an impact driver to remove the tacho drive housing, especially the one holding the cable in, you'll break the housing most likely, check to see if it comes out intact, a lot don't.
Check sump bolt thread in oil pan.
If in doubt, take a picture before dismantling, remove in sequence then reassemble after removal to make sure you know how it goes, use elastic bands if possible to keep things together. Watch when removing the gearbox from the cases, the ends will fall off if your not careful meaning you can't be sure how they went on.
Sounds like a handful but TBH these engines are easy to work on.
Cheers Oddjob, exactly what I wanted to know. Unfortunately, the engine was already in pieces when I bought the bike so I didn't have the opportunity to photograph and label things. The cam lobes, followers and journals are all smooth with no visible damage. I can see that the primary chain has marked the case, but not much. I'll post a photo of it once I'm back in the workshop. Cheers, JB
39
« on: February 09, 2022, 01:35:52 PM »
Good afternoon chaps,
Newbie member JB here,
I've bought a 500K2 project bike that's already been dismantled by the previous owner 10 years ago. Including the engine.
I know I need new main crank shells as I've only got 4 of the originals, the rest are missing. Besides seals and gaskets, what else am I going to need whilst I'm doing it? It's been decades since I've done any engine building, and those were 2 stroke singles. So what's the list of 'whilst you're in there' things to do?
Cheers, JB
40
« on: February 09, 2022, 01:24:28 PM »
I have had excellent service from CMSL and quick delivery - don't forget any import duty (lots of threads on this subject).
Dave Silver sources parts from them sometimes
Cheers philward, I can't find the brown shells anywhere else, so I'll get them from CMSL. Even though it's going to be a pricey affair. I'll get all the other bits I need for the engine rebuild from David Silver. Cheers, JB
41
« on: February 09, 2022, 08:29:42 AM »
Colours you require are
Brown, Green, Brown, Green, Green.
Check the shells you already have carefully, at the bottom of the bearing, on it's edge, they are marked with the colour. Most times this has worn off but sometimes you can still see it. If you can find 2 of the same colour you can reuse them if of course they are in good condition.
Browns are getting in short supply now, DS has to order them in, probably from CMS, he still has Greens however. They are priced at £16 a shell, so £32 a journal, they don't come as pairs. So 10 shells is £160 plus P&P.
If your getting shells do it now, prices are starting to sky rocket as sources start to dry up for certain parts.
Cheers Oddjob, I've found browns on the CMS website. As I'm totally new to these bikes, I'm assuming CMS are a reliable source of parts? Cheers, JB
42
« on: February 08, 2022, 01:01:37 PM »
Welcome to the Forum - so do you build cycle frames for yourself or for specialist use such as track cycling?
I ask as my younger brother is a keen cyclist currently riding A Mercian in the summer - reverting to Titanium in the winter months.
Mainly for myself, though I have made and sold a couple to local riders.
43
« on: February 08, 2022, 12:57:38 PM »
Shell tolerance (journal +bore) etc are given in the Honda information. You can probably mic them with a piece of silver steel inside the shells to make intelligent chart of what you have. Then assembly with plastigauge to verify with them in position to use those existing ones.
Thanks K2-K6. Unfortunately I don't have a full set of shells, only 5 halves
44
« on: February 08, 2022, 12:12:16 PM »
Cheers for the replies guys.
I really shouldn't have started another project until the 911 was finished. But sod it!
Ah, the crankshaft bearing selector chart is something I've seen mentioned over on the SOHC.net forum.
I've got the following letters stamped on the crankcase: CBBBB and on the crank I can see these numbers: 11211. So what cocktail of shell colours do I need to order? It's a shame the previous owner took them out because they look totally like new and unmarked.
I'll post some photos of bicycles and the 911 soon.
Cheers, JB
45
« on: February 08, 2022, 08:12:38 AM »
Good day folks,
JB here, in Shropshire
Thanks for having me. I've just bought a CB 500K1 unfinished project. Actually, it's an unstarted project! Previous owner bought it as a complete bike (minus the exhaust system) 10 years ago to convert it to a cafe racer. He promptly decided to dismantle everything, and I mean everything! The engine is in pieces in a couple of boxes. The positive is that it all looks in great condition so just a matter of getting new seals and gaskets. And main crank shells as he didn't number them. Reg document says it was previously registered abroad. I'm assuming it was a US bike.
I'll probably go down the resto-mod route or Brat style as I'm not as flexible enough as I used to be for a cafe racer. I've got a pretty well-equipped workshop and know what I'm doing with a lathe/milling machine, welding and brazing. I've nearly finished building a 1983 Porsche 911 hotrod and I make my own fillet brazed steel bicycle frames.
I've got lots of questions.
Cheers,
JB
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