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Messages - Graeme77
17
« on: December 01, 2015, 08:36:06 PM »
I had similar problems with my oil cooled gsxr750. I replaces the coil leads (you have to rip/cut them out and bond in new ones).
Whenever I have had these issues with old vars its always leads breaking down or arcing. There not supposed to be replacable but you can.
Also, a major problem that was tricky to find was the little tiny o rings on the carb mixture screws.
I dont know how similar yours is to the old gsxrs but these 2 things transformed my bike.
18
« on: December 01, 2015, 08:31:55 PM »
Yes, 22mm carb peps them up. Also 4mm of the disc valve each side. Those, the expansion chamber and maybe a bit more compression is all id do.
I have found a 12v comversion with rotor, stator, regulator, coil erc for £200. Pretty much replaces everything and gives electronic ignition and 100w of generator output.
Im tempted.
Ill try a new coil and if it runs ill think about investing. Reliability is good when its my wifes bike and it will be me getting the call every time she cant start it!
19
« on: December 01, 2015, 08:28:45 PM »
Fantastic, at last I have a definitive answer to which way it goes in and luckily, thats the way I fitted it. I hadnt even considered it would wear or any of it would have a service limit! Im not taking the clutch out again to check lol. So mechanicaly the engine is fine and electrically I cant find any issue so im left with randomly replacing parts till it runs 
20
« on: December 01, 2015, 08:06:45 PM »
Thanks, very helpfull. Seems my coil is only just about out of spec. I was hoping it would be way off spec and therefore more likely to be the problem.
As for the disc, im struggling to visualise your explanation. Ignoring where abouts in the rotation it is, the larger center notch, is it nearer the opening to the right, or nearer to the left?
Thanks again, much appreciated. Im surprised how little info there is on the net about these, they made them for long enough!
21
« on: December 01, 2015, 05:09:42 PM »
It would be very helpfull to know the coil resistances and exciter coil resistance.
Would also be good to see a picture of the disc valve as fitted, or any info that would give me a deffinate answer as to which way round the disc valve is fitted.
The plan with this bike is a run around for the wife, but a little tuned, stripped down, expansion chamber and a 60's style race fairing to mimic the old A1R racer.
22
« on: December 01, 2015, 04:10:36 PM »
Took the top end off again and have been poking the multimeter about.
Coil has 5k resistance on the secondary but only 0.3 ohm of primary. I guess its knackered. Ill order a new one and see if thats it.
Im still not convinced its drawing fuel through properly but I cant see why it wouldnt.
Its maddening, multi cylinder 4 stoke I can fix, 2 stroke with 3 moving parts and im stumped.
23
« on: December 01, 2015, 02:57:41 PM »
And a pic of my cb750 to brighten things up a bit 
24
« on: December 01, 2015, 02:55:35 PM »
The offending pile of junk.
25
« on: December 01, 2015, 02:53:59 PM »
Fitted a new plug, charged battery, bought easy start, still wont run.
its got spark, but dont know if its sparking under compression. I only have the front exhaust pipe fitted at the moment and its dripping with a fuel/oil/easy start mess so fluid is obviously making its way through the engine.
It must have no spark.
Any things to test? Ive been trying to measure voltage at the coil when its kicked over but its inconsistant (and low) but im clutching at straws. Dont really want to replace battery, coil, regulator, stator and rotor without knowing whats at fault.
Bike needs work, its rough as its been sat in the garden. I dont mind spending on it if it runs but dont want to throw £200 at it in the hope of it then working.
26
« on: December 01, 2015, 08:56:40 AM »
Thanks. It has a battery but its been flat for years. Ill get another.
27
« on: November 30, 2015, 11:05:11 PM »
Thanks.
so new plug next and maybe a good known coil.
In your experience, will they start ok with a completely flat battery? Its 6v so I cant charge it yet.
Usual story, dont want to spend money on it till it runs but needs money to get it running.
28
« on: November 30, 2015, 09:42:50 PM »
I have a kh125, have had it for ages. Its never run. Previous owner couldnt get it running. Owner before that rebuilt it.
I tried everything, then laid it up for a year.
I just stripped engine, rebuilt it and am trying again but it still wont run!
Carb is spotless.
Rebored, new piston, rings, bearings and seals.
Got good spark (but no battery power, shouldnt matter).
Cant see any way to adjust timing except by altering points gap.
Ive had the rotary disc valve in both ways round.
Got cood compression and clean posh petrol. Petrol is getting to carb, plug is getting wet but might just be oil. Ive tried a bit of fuel down the plug hole and ive tried brake cleaner squirted in the carb lol.
I just dont understand why it wont run!
Anyone know anything about kh/ke 100/125?
Im at the stage now where I just want to set fire to it.
29
« on: November 12, 2015, 01:53:10 PM »
£50 is an obscene amount of money for 2 plastuc bottles and a funnel!
How can that price be justified?
Not hard to work out and then add some lines to work out percentages but thats irrelevant anyway.
30
« on: November 08, 2015, 09:45:12 PM »
Now thats an offer you cant refuse!
My drill has a rotating round table and very low speed ability. I wouldnt want to do one without being able to accurately rotate the disc somehow.
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