Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => Other Bikes => Topic started by: peteuk on September 09, 2017, 01:54:55 PM
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Hello everyone, ive completed thd CB550F and have now aquired a CB125T2 in pieces thst has been laid on a pallet in someone's garden for years. There was so much rust I thought the bike was brown. Any way it's taking shape but there was no engine with the bike. I'm quite happy to go up in size but I was wondering if anyone knew what engine, other than the 125, would be a fit for the frame. Also if anyone has a 125T engine or other that would fit and would fancy selling on to me. Thanks.......Pete
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here's some pics so far
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It was like the worlds hardest jigsaw puzzle for me.
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Thought i'd better start with the skeleton and work my way up
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This is going to take some time
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The titan wheel is going to get some use here
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frame looking a bit better with red oxide on. It was coated in a rust seal prior to this after i had removed most of the rust
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And now with the porcelain black on it. I know powder coating is best but i'm on a budget and want to do everything myself on this one
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Starting to take shape
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looking something like now
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There's a bike starting to appear
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I need, obviously to find an engine, handlebars are on order, as is seat and a boat load of other bits and bobs. Absolutely dreading the electrics cos that is alchemy to me. I'm ok at mechanis but electrics baffle me. If anyones interested i'll keep posting pics of the progress. Let me know.
Thanks......Pete
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Yeah keep going pics are good
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All interesting stuff. Great hobby this, converting a pile of rusty parts into a good looking, road legal rideable bike.
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Looking good so far, reminds me of my first cb550 which was in similar shape, I ended up buying job lots of bits amounting to near whole bikes as it was cheaper pro rata than buying individual bits....
If it's still there a breakers in Prees nr whitchurch had a nearly complete bike a few years back, but they had naff all idea what was in stock, I was told flat out they had no Suzuki fz50s in, promptly found 4 whole bikes in their compound.
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doing really well,
please continue to post pics with updates
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Hi. I've got the chance of a cb125t engine for the bike from a 1988 bike. Mine is a 1980 bike and was wondering if anyone could tell me if it would be a direct fit or a suitable replacement. Thanks
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You would need to do quite a bit to get it running in your frame. It may well fit physically, but your bikes electrics are 6 volt and set up for kickstart only. The later engine you have bee offered will be 12volt, and electric start only, no kick start option. Plus you would need to make a loom to suit the cdi setup as your frame uses points ignition. Not insurmountable, but a lot of grief and fair bit of expense. And for less bhp than your original engine would have!
Sent from my X6pro using Tapatalk
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The engine from a honda cb200 benly from the same period was very similar looking with the same style rocker cover if i remember correctly....
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Wow thanks for the info. I forgot about the reduced bhp too. I think I'll hang on and wait for a more suitable engine then. Thanks again
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Keep posting as this is the type of thing that fascinates me, the idea of a bike appearing from a pile of parts is great, it's nice to see it progressing.
Cheers
Dennis
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Cheers Dennis, the tank is off and is currently going through the derusting process of the inside then it gets lined and i'll be sending it to a mates for a paint job. i was going to do everything myself but ive decided to let someone who knows what they're doing tackle the paintwork. i've also got quite a few parts on order..handlebars, seat, brakes etc. Still trying to source an engine. Theres one on ebay but the seller says it won't turn over right so not sure if i want to invest in that one. I may do cos they're like rocking horse poo to get hold of. Anyway i'll post some more pics soon when its looking a bit more together.
Cheers everyone.....Pete
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Do a bit bit of research, if the cm125 rebel can donate any engine internals, I have a decent lot of bits less a crank off a crashed bike, cases snapped in half, crank bent but otherwise looked ok. If the one on eBay won't turn over it's a fair chance the piston or bore have got rust, very often the rest is ok, probably worth a gamble as at least you have a starting point, provided the delivered cost is acceptableof course.
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Thanks matthewmosse, the sellers reply when I asked him if it turned over, said that it turned over 350 degrees one way then got stuck then would turn 350 degrees the other way????. I think he possibly meant 360 degrees ie a full rotation but I was thinking it's possibly a bent valve or something.
Any way, he's located 150 miles away from me but I don't mind the round trip to collect if it's worth getting.
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Hairygit, regarding your earlier message:-
You would need to do quite a bit to get it running in your frame. It may well fit physically, but your bikes electrics are 6 volt and set up for kickstart only. The later engine you have bee offered will be 12volt, and electric start only, no kick start option. Plus you would need to make a loom to suit the cdi setup as your frame uses points ignition. Not insurmountable, but a lot of grief and fair bit of expense. And for less bhp than your original engine would have!
Thing is the bike came without an engine so therefore as long as it fits in the frame, am I right in thinking I just need to make sure everything is 12volt ie lights, regulator, battery etc. Sorry if I sound like I don't have a clue but basically that's not far off the truth. Cheers
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Well, yes you can convert to 12v, but you will need a lot of additional parts, and a considerably larger battery, switchgear with start button, solenoid, cdi unit, probably easiest to use the harness from a 12v bike, then regulator, rectifier, coils, flasher unit, horn and all bulbs. I had the impression you were trying to keep it fairly original, but as I said, not insurmountable problems, but a fair bit of aggro and expense.
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Hiya Hairygit, no im not keeping this one original, I did with the cb550 but this ones having black and white paintwork, cafe seat etc etc. As for all the parts you mention, I didnt get them with bike anyway. Engine, carbs, electrics, rectifier, battery all missing so i would have to buy them anyway and from looking round, 12v supplies seem much easier, and cheaper, to come by
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Hi, I will be posting some more pics soon and I have managed to get a 1978 unrestricted 125t engine which is a bit of a bonus. The engine was missing a few parts, ie points plate and points, inlet stubs and carbs etc. Anyway I've got these parts on order but I'm puzzled by the points, in particular the condensers. On previous bikes I've had the condensers were bolted to the points plate underneath and attached to the points. Not so on this bike and I've searched everywhere including the manual and I can't workout where they're supposed to go or where they're supposed to attach to (which wire etc). Any help with pictures would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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I'm picking up 2 bikes from my Father in laws after work tonight ,both Hondas
Both are 125's i seem to remember a twin and a single i think.
They have been left outside in an old green house for some years s not sure what i am going to find.
I would like to get one of them going for him (he is now in a home)
but may move the other one on .
If it is the same as yours may be of use for reference.
Watch this space
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Hi PeteUK
The condensers for the points ignition are mounted on the battery box. Not sure why. I remember on my '72 CB125s that I first rode in '75 had the single condenser under the points cover, but there's no room on the CB125T2.
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Unfortunately photobucket have decided to change their Ts&Cs so my pics are no longer showing unless I pay.
But my post that I started a while ago is here when I was rebuilding my CB125T2. It's still not finished & even less likely to get done anytime soon as i'm going to be a grandad in February & my efforts & spare time are being used in a different direction atm.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,2763.0.html
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Hi Yoshi, I would have loved to see those pics but as you say photobucket are not allowing it now unless you pay
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I got the engine for the bike and this is what it looked like
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And this is now
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Got the paintwork done. I'm still looking for handlebars so using a sawn of broom pole at the mo.
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For those who are wondering about the back end looking out of place, and i'm one of em, i'm removing the rear sissy bar (if that's what it's called), and shortening the inner black mudguard. I'll then need to do a bit of welding for the seat to fit correctly. Watch this space cos i'm no welder but i'll give it a go.
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If you leave the bar on the back Pete you could place one foot on it and pull amazing wheelies, just sayin 😗
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It's a thought but my wheelie days are long past.
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It's a thought but my wheelie days are long past.
Ha, I wouldn’t dare try one nowadays, mainly because I’ve seen others do it and fail, and there’s definitely no more effective way of making yourself look a complete plonker!.
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Now got the engine in and handlebars on so I've ditched the broom handle.
I'm still looking for any information regarding placement of the condensers. On other bikes i've had/got, they were placed underneath the points but not on this bike. The schematic shows it up near the battery housing but if any one anything more specific with photos that would be a great help. Thanks
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Thats looking smart Pete, better than I thought it would actually 👍
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Hi, so I've got the condenser sighting sorted and I'm on with the electrics. As I mentioned earlier, electrics are not my strong point. I have got power to the points (Tested with a circuit tester bulb) but no spark at the plugs. Any ideas anyone. Cheers
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You can look at the points as a switch to earth, so when they are open the earth is disconnected.
If you supply a bulb from batt + and earth through the points it should be alight with points closed and go off as points open.
One of the most common problems is with the little insulating washers where the leads connect to the points, if not in the right place then the lead is earthed all the time and gives no switching. So obviously no sparks.
Nice work on it, bike looks really good.
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On a similar note, there should be 12V on one side of the coil and a fluctuating 12V (12. 0. 12. 0 12........) on the others side, caused by the points opening and closing. This can be checked while turning the engine by hand.
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Hi, thanks for the replys. I do have power to the points and when doing the timing, the bulb from the test light goes out and comes on as it should when the the crank is turned. As for the 12v mentioned, the coils are 6v. Cheers
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This is looking great, keep it up
Cheers
Dennis
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Cheers Dennis. It's turning out pretty good. It's a costly hobby tho this ere bike renovation. Also I've yet to try and start it as I don't have a spark to the plugs so I'll let you know what the engine is like when I get to that stage
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Hi everyone. A quick update. I've now got the electrics something like and managed to get a spark to plugs and points. However, the thing will not start. It does the odd fart but other than that I'm left with an aching thigh after all the kicking over. I'm thinking it's possibly fuel to the plugs. When i take out the plugs (which along with the points are new), there is a hint of a whiff of petrol on them but they're certainly not soaked. Could it be a carburettor problem. The bike is a twin and I couldn't find any original carbs so bought 2 singles. As far as I know, and I could be wrong, the original were 2 singles with a linkage joining the choke arms together so that when one choke is operated it engages the second one as well. So I've made s little arm myself to link the 2 choke arms. Am I missing something. Thanks in advance.
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Spray a little carb/brake/cleaner or ezeestart down each carb, usually gets them firing and starts to drag a little fuel out of the float bowls to give it a bit more appetite to running.
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im finding these days when plugs have got really soaked they are wrecked especially NGK...
my cb450 and cl450 were the main culprits
when i put new in it would fire first kick...
the guy who bought the cb rang me a couple of days after i dropped it off as he couldnt get it started again new plugs and it was off...he was giving the throttle a load when kicking ...it liked to be left to its own devices
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K2-k6 you mentioned spraying carb cleaner etc down the carbs but where from. Do I take the air filter off and spray from that route or do i take the throttle cables off and spray down the barrel of the carb ?. Cheers
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Yes take air filter out ( especially if it's foam) and just spray into carb throat from there. Get it ready to go, give a quick spray and try starting. I don't usually continue to spray as you're trying to start, just enough vapor will work and you don't want it saturated with this stuff.
General precaution when spraying flammable stuff around is to do it outside. You don't spray enough for real risk but sensible to be practical about it.
If it runs on this and then stops it shows you've not got petrol in flammable mixture enough to make it catch. Usually all things being ok they'll go and continue to run on their own fuel.
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Okay mate I'll give it a go. Thanks for the advice
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K2-k6, tried the carb cleaner spray but didn't make any difference. Still the odd fart of a combustion but nothing more than that. Not sure what to do next. I've checked the timing for the 18th time and it's okay.
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Something a bit odd then. Usually with that stuff anything will at least run momentarily if everything but the fuel is ok.
I'm not familiar with ignition setup, timing strategy or firing order for these engines so you may need more input from someone with direct experience to find a way forward.
Just a quick thought, It's not possible to get the timing 180 degrees out is it?
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You mentioned the condensers earlier on. Are you sure they are wired in correctly?... I’d be looking for an ignition fault as suggested by k2-k6.
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It seems that you're not far off getting it running but must be something tripping it up.
Something woodside mentioned back there abit about the plugs being wet. I know you said they smelt lightly of petrol but if they've wetted enough not to spark then it could stop you progressing. I've you've got anything else you could run them in it may help with diagnosis.
I contrived to get some NGK plugs in a car wet, it wouldn't go at all apart from a couple of coughs. It's fuel injected so I had to pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it with the throttle propped wide open until it cleared but it did fire and the plugs are fine still. It took me ages to realise I'd flooded it and after taking hours going through it found that nothing was out of place.
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K2_k6 you read my mind cos I was just coming on here to ask that very question. What if I've coupled the coils into the wrong power lead. Normally with double coils there is a blue and an earth on one coil and a yellow and earth on the other so you couple them up the right way into the harness. The coils are identical other than this.on my bike, both coils had a blue and an earth. Could it be that I've coupled them up back to front causing 180 degrees misalignment.
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My "offsite" knowledge of the twins is not up to scratch so a few questions.
Is there just the one set of points, if so then you can't connect them wrong I think. The power into them is just straight from the loom switched through the ignition and has kill switch. As an extra check you can wire straight from the battery positive to bypass the other kit, leave a loose connection though in case it starts and goes too fast you can pull it off to isolate.
The coils firing is via the earth through the points. One set of points equals firing both coils. If you've two sets of points then you can connect the earths to the wrong set and fire them 180 out, so that's something to verify.
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K2 yes there are 2 sets of points and 2 coils. Are you saying that the earth is not common and by plugging in to wrong earth connection can cause 180 degree out
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The points ARE the earth connection, so yes, wired wrong will put things well awry!
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Yes, as hairy says, the points are the earth route for the coils so nothing should interfere with each discreet route for every coil via its own points set.
Also yes for the two sets of points, by switching the two sets over with that earth wire from one to the other it will switch the spark timing by 180 degrees.
So if you just swap them and try it to see what you get.
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Just to be pedantic the black/white wires are POWER in and the blue or yellow are the earth via the points, and it is easy to get the wires at the points wrong and earth the coils permanently so no spark
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Bryan regarding your post. I do have a spark at the plugs. Are you saying that if I have the wires wrong way round I wouldn't get a spark at all. I'm confused
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I think what Bryan is saying there goes back to what was discussed a bit earlier in the thread around the insulation at the connectors of the points, if it's not right then you wouldn't, as you point out, get any spark, so that end looks ok.
The colour coding is as Bryan states for feed and earth at the coils differentiated in that way, but the coils will work when fed through the earth and switched with the feed. That would be connected to the loom backwards, if that makes sense.
Which points are connected to which coil is what gives you wrong timing. So if you go from where it's currently at and just swap over the two leads going to the points it should verify if it will fire. You can do some tidying up with the colours afterwards to make it match the correct wiring diagram.
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Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot and let you know how I get on
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IT'S A RUNNER...........
Swapped over the coil leads and it started first time. Got a bit of an oil leak from the clutch casing when the oil pressure is raised. (Weird cos it's a new gasket on there) maybe just want nipping up. But any way, brilliant felling when it started up and kept running, good tick over. So I've decided to treat it to some new exhausts, new brakes, sort out the back end and a few bits should see it just about there.
Thanks for all the advice, tips etc. I'll post more pics when it's fully completed
Pete
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Well done, it's great when you get something going after all the work put into it.
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Great news, you should be well chuffed with it
Cheers
Dennis
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Well done. When a plan comes together all the hassle was worth it. Look forward to seeing the video.
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Hi again. I've put a video up on you tube. It only last a minute or so. https://youtu.be/wctMcu72hS8
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UPDATE......
Hi, anyone following this thread will know that I got the bike running. Well not anymore. It was ticking over nice then suddenly stopped and will not start for love nor money.....and I've tried both.
I've stripped the carbs down....again and I definitely have fuel to the plugs.
Done the points gap and timing again
Cleaned the plugs and made sure there's sparking against the engine fins
One thing tho, I bought s new 6volt gel battery and i noticed it was losing charge. Took it off the bike to make sure it wasn't parasitic power that was draining it. Charged it up and left in on the work bench and within 15 minutes if had dropped from 6.3v yo 5.7v. I emailed the company who said this was faulty and are sending out a new battery.
Could it be that the faulty battery is causing a reduced spark at plugs?.
I was of the understanding that these old kick start Honda's were self generating and therefore technically you didn't need a battery to run. Am i wrong on this?
Anyway, when the new battery comes I'll try starting it again but ive wasted 2 days trying stuff and got nowhere and at the minute I'm totally stumped.
Please help
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They do indeed require a good, charged battery to run, low or dead battery and you have no hope! When the new one arrives, fit NEW spark plugs, after kicking it over 10 or more times with the plugs out, throttle wide open and choke off. Then fit new plugs and it should start normally again. Trying to clean plugs that have been soaked is rarely successful, and kicking it over as described clears any unburnt fuel from the cylinders and won't then foul the new plugs.
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Wow thanks for the quick reply and I'll try exactly what you have said. Just one thing, choke off.....is that open. I tend to get this the wrong way round. Does choke off mean fully open and choke on mean fully closed
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Fully open, as if the engine is warm and running normally, just gives maximum airflow through the cylinders to clear unburnt fuel and not foul the new plugs!
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I've not experienced fuel wetted plugs ever being a problem once you get enough air into it. I just get it cranked with everything in place and maximum air to get them firing.
Have you got CV carbs on it, or just straight slide type?
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The slide slide type.
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As hairy advised then regarding air into it, leave choke in hot / normal / non applied position, hold carbs wide open, completely, and kick it without dismantling anything.
If you could get someone to push you on it with same settings and in second gear it should fire, eventually.
Both ways, just don't close the throttle at all until you hear it trying to fire.
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Hi, still waiting for the new battery to arrive but I've got another problem and it's electrical which as mentioned earlier is definitely not my forte. I've bought a rear tail/stop light. The light works ok (i keep charging the faulty battery) when I press the brake the rear light should get brighter but the light actually goes out. I bought a new rear brake switch but still the same. When I put the parking light on, the brighter light comes on. I've tried different combinations of the rear wiring but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Any ideas anyone
Thanks....Pete
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Initially I'd look to make sure that the earth to the light is working well. If you are unsure of this, run a straight wire from the earth on the light unit direct to the battery minus terminal and then try to operate the different lights.
Let us know what happens then.
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I'm at a total loss.....??????
So the bike was running last week and was sounding pretty good. One day after doing nothing since the last time it ran, the bloody thing would not start, not even fire. I've now changed the battery for a new one, changed the plugs. I've checked the timing.....again. I've got a good spark at the plugs. Petrol to the plugs (you can smell it when they are removed), and yet it wont even fire, no farting, coughing....nothing. what's going on?. Any ideas anyone cos I'm totally out. Cheers
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Had similar shenanigans on dad's Rassant junior mower, he was convined it was timing - a stuipidly fiddly job on that mag 10hp engine. Eventually I found two things amiss, slight head gasket leak and a sticky carb controll rod. So glad I avoided the timing setting job. Sounds like you have covered most of the bases. Worth trying yet another set of plugs - I had a problem on my kh125 a few years ago, found 2 out of 4 plugs I had (all new at the start ) were duds,sparked ok out of the cylinder but wouldn't do fiddly squat in there, a 3rd went like that after flooding it. A bad day for that bike. Worth spraying neat carb cleaner through the air intake and see if it fires to rule out mixture being weak etc, also worth popping the float bowls off to verify no crud in there. If you can get a straw on a carb cleaner can into the jets in situ, worth jetting them out on every visable hole - sometimes removes blockages you didn't know were there. Seems to have worked on a few chainsaws, strimmers and rotovator engines I've got back running. It is rather frustrating after a long slog to get them running that a week later it seems back to square 1, but persist now and once these teething issues are resolved hopefully it will settle to reliable service. Seems to have worked for a Fair few engines I've revived recently.
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A couple of questions, was the fuel tap left on? Check the oil level and smell the dipstick, does it smell of petrol?
It's possible that petrol has been running through the carbs into the engine. If there's any evidence of that it may give you problems. This would happen if floats didn't hold shut too well.
If an engine is flooded, it's not the spark plug that's a problem, usually. If cylinder mixture is so rich then a spark, even a good one, won't ignite it. They'll go eventually if you get enough air into them.
Similar to what matt says, I've had two stroke engines I've had to turn upside down to let the fuel out the exhaust port then able to start them.
If the fuel is on, then turn it off and leave it that way until you get a response from the engine initially.
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Thanks for the replies. Checked the dip stick and no smell of petrol. I'll get some more plugs tomorrow and try that although these are new ones and I feel like I'm wasting money but I'll give it a go. I've had the carbs off and cleaned em out. It could be a too rich mixture I guess. How do I reduce the richness, is it by tightening the screw on the side further in or should it be backed out
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The air screws set at about 1 1/4 turns out from being fully in aren't usually going to be a problem. They only adjust the running at idle anyway and wouldn't usually cause flooding so I'd not worry about those if they aren't in that range.
The main jetting is adjusted by raising and lowering the clip on the needle in the main slide. Lower the needle gets leaner, raising the needle gets richer. With correct main jet number the needle clip is usually in the centre of 5 clip options.
As carbs came from different bike ( thought that's what you posted) do you know what main jet sizes art installed?
I know others have different experiences, I allways just use plugs even if they've been flooded, never really get problems with them and not thought it necessary to buy new if you've got them sparking.
We must be able to get it going one way or another, they can be frustrating though.
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I assume you've checked the float levels? And the float valves for leaks?
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There's no leaks from the carbs and I've not changed anything from when not was last running. It's so frustrating cos now I can't even get it to fire...or even misfire. I have no idea what jet sizes are but like I say, it was running so it doesn't make sense. I'll get some new plugs and try it but I don't hold out much hope for that. Just one thing that may be relevant to someone. Last time it was running, it died then started, then died off again
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You're right about jet size, it more me thinking out loud to see if it catches anything odd, or prompts someone else looking in.
Guess we have to keep thinking things to check that may influence it. It's something of course that if it's in front of you you just go through, bit more time when relaying it across.
That stalling out may have a significance. You could try and take off the exhausts to see if they have an influence, then try to start it.
Also have you tried like earlier posts with a little carb cleaner down the intakes to see if it'll encourage it.
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Ok thanks. I've tried easy start but still no firing. I've tried it thro the inlet to no avail and then taken plugs out and sprayed it down the plug holes.....still nothing. I will try removing exhausts and giving that a go cos they are new exhausts but it has been running since they were fitted.
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I suppose as you check through all the known and more obvious things you're left to look at the obscure to maie sure something unaccounted for hasn't happened.
I know it's clutching at straws with the exhaust but it will hopefully eliminate them. They shouldn't really affect it firing but if they somehow had been blocked internally it's worth eliminating them from the investigation.
Next thing I'd look at would be compression to understand what you've got there.
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Also worth checking the wiring to and at the points and condensors in case vibration has rattled them loose again, those motors are 180 degree cranks with no balancer fitted, so do get high pitch vibration. I remember buying a brand new Cb125T2 in 1981, and after 200 miles (running in at low revs) all 4 exhaust flange nuts had vibrated off while riding, so the points etc would be subjected to similar vibes.
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OK thanks. Would I still get a spark at the plugs tho if anything like that had come loose?
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I bet you're right about the compression cos it's all thats left. I don't have a compression tester but I know a man who has so I think that's worth a go
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OK thanks. Would I still get a spark at the plugs tho if anything like that had come loose?
Yes, but it may well not spark in the cylinder under compression, as it's only 2 screws to remove the points cover it's well worth checking.
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I've got the points cover off and there's nothing obviously loose. I'll keep checking tho
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UPDATE.......SHE'S A RUNNER AGAIN
Thanks for all input. Changed the plugs and she fired right up. I can't believe it, those plugs were NOG from David Silver and they haven't lasted 2 minutes. Any ideas what could have caused them to fail so quickly....flooding maybe???
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Yes, as I told you before, once modern plugs have got wet, it's not worth the hassle trying to clean them, in my experience it's quicker and cheaper time wise to fit new ones. Chances are you tried to start it on choke when it wasn't cold enough to warrant it, it started, when you let the revs down it flooded, then it re started for a short time, plugs fouled up, game over! Check your jet sizes if it floods easily, many misguided spotty teenage oiks think bigger jets automatically equals more power/speed, with this kind of result, or maybe they ran K&N or similar filters for the same reason. Glad it's going again.
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Ha ha, I was wrong there then. Anyway, at least it's going again now.
This one's certainly being a little diva to to you I feel.
I didn't understand what " NOG" plugs were? Are they own brand?
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Sorry it's this predictive text thing, should have been NGK not NOG. Thanks hairygit and you may have hit on something. I'm certainly no boy racer (I'm 54 and ride like a vicar with a sprained wrist) but i have got K&N filters on due to ease and not wanting to spend 3 months wages on an original airbox. Could this be an issue
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Those things look pretty, and are fine on a race bike which is nailed full throttle all the time, but are a total pain to get jetted for general road use.
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Ok thanks for the advice. I may have a problem tho now cos I've done a bit of welding and modded it for the k&Ns and a homemade battery box. I wouldn't get an original airbox to fit now. May have caused myself a bit of heartache there. Ah well you live and learn. Thanks for all the tips they really do help someone like me who has a passion but limited knowledge and experience
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From the point of adaptions to the jetting with regard to running those filters then it's worth giving something of a start point to realistically assess it.
Generally by putting this type of filtration on carbs it appears to reduce the vacuum for the same type of throttle opening. This ordinarily means that as it's vacuum which pulls fuel out of the float bowl, then you'd have to consider an increase in fuel metering to restore that balance.
If the main jets are confirmed as std, then go with lifting the main needles by moving the circlip down one slot.
For the pilot screws, probably start at 2 turns out from fully home. These you can evaluate yourself once running and warmed up, with choke fully out of use. When it's on tickover, if you turn the pilot screw either way to get the fastest idle, then turn it the opposite way very slightly until you hear the engine speed just, only just, start to drop. Then this should give you a reference point of how to set for your bike configuration.
If the pilot screw goes less than 1/2 turn out, or more than 3 turns out, then it would indicate that a different sized pilot jet would be needed to get optimisation.
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Latest Pics.
Thanks K2, i shall put into place your tips and advice on the carbs. In the meantime here's the bike almost complete. Cheers
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Your bike looks brilliant. Wish I could motivate myself......I can't believe you have don all that work in two months........I'm into my second year on mine !!!!!!!!!!!
Well done anyway..........nice bike......not sure about the saddle - but it's your bike, although I really do like the paintwork.
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Did you make the seat yourself or get it done professionally?
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Fantastic job...looks to have a great finish everywhere !!, nice photograph too.. 8)
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Thanks for compliments. As for the seat, I got it off ebay. It's brand new from china. £37 inc delivery.
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very smart, nicely done.
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Looks great
Cheers
Dennis
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Thanks for compliments. As for the seat, I got it off ebay. It's brand new from china. £37 inc delivery.
China is great for parts, I mean you have to make your mind up on quality when the part arrives but usually they are fine, I just got a tail tidy for my Scrambler for £26, the nearest UK price was £88, anyway Pete your bike looks great, greater than the sum of its parts in fact 👍
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well done pete for getting your bikes on the 'show us yours' section in CMM! they're looking good.
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Thanks very much. Couldn't believe it. I actually won something for the first time in my life. As for the little 125, it was running terrible so I decided to take the engine out and strip it down, well the top end was all I needed to strip to find the problem. Part of one of the pistons was broke off and on both pistons the bottom oil rings were missing. It's amazing the bike ran at all. Anyway, fitted new barrels, pistons, rings and stem seals. Replaced the gaskets and now it runs great.
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Great job & another bike saved ;D
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Just to let everyone who was interested in this thread know, I sold the little bike on ebay this week. Didn't want to let it go but I wasn't using it and I needed the space for a new project. Thanks to all those who helped me out.... Pete