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Messages - PatM
Pages: 1 ... 10 11 [12] 13 14
166
« on: September 02, 2010, 01:28:03 PM »
Hello Dave
A very informative post and something most of us know a little about but to me, you
167
« on: September 01, 2010, 08:39:02 AM »
Dave
Your comments make good reading- especially the bit about the over- although I doubt the engine would have fitted, but next time its out- Ill try.
When my carbs leaked shortly after re-commissioning mine- there was a pool of silver on the floor- depite the fact the engine had been run a few times and allowed to cool..
whatever next? carbs in the diswasher- a sort oof DIY ultra-sonic clean maybe..
168
« on: August 31, 2010, 07:11:11 PM »
Im going to try and Make the Gamecock on thursday, weather permitting- and come on the 400/4! Im the 'Fatbloke'
- I need to get my replacement speedo from Ebay before ill show my face though!
Rgds
PatM
169
« on: August 31, 2010, 04:56:57 PM »
I did my engine with the EHT laquer- on top of EHT engine paint- and I can still smell it cooking after 100 miles use..
170
« on: August 31, 2010, 11:09:34 AM »
Hi again
just picking up on the George front- yes, the same pub and yes, part of the same lot- it was essentially the Eltham and District Bike Club I believe you are referring to- a crew who still get together now and then- but sadly few of them ever turn up on bikes- (I do!) I suppose age and getting married can ruin a happy relationship! I was a late vocation to bikes- my next brother down was there before me. He worked with 2 guys at the co-op in Woolwich who had 400/4s- and that started it. You will know one of them; I
171
« on: August 31, 2010, 09:37:34 AM »
Paul
Ouch!- the joys of all-year round biking- I can recount some of those also- the best being when I dived under a Rover SD1 jumping a set of lights on my hack-of-a-A100 Suzi- only for the whole lot to burst into flames! Yep, recovery is slow process- skin-grafts take ages- and with a slimmer degree of certainty than restoring bikes.
I was waiting for my MOT last week and a couple of well-healed kids were debating what bike to get- R1, R6, etc- their education or parenting had done them proud- they certainly had some money by the sound of it. I engaged conversation, as the waiting for an MOT at Maidstone
172
« on: August 30, 2010, 10:01:31 PM »
Ah- Im about an hour late seing this! Ive just broought its replacemnt of ebay for
173
« on: August 30, 2010, 09:57:44 PM »
Very Nice!
I had some luck spraying mine with chrome paint- yes, there is such a product- and then lacquering it afterwards. I did the same on my forks- except I used EHT type lacquer- which reacted with the chrome paint and went a strange silver colour.
I think the normal lacquer should suffice for a bit and was relatively cheap with the paint.
Rgds
PatM
174
« on: August 30, 2010, 04:30:49 PM »
Hi
are 550 clocks/rev counter the same as the 400/4's?
I took my clock apart (again) to try to repair the oddometer/trip and failed- as the gears stripped because the grease went solid on the driven idler gear.
The s/s ring is a bit of a mess now- so I need to re-speedo it, if you follow.
175
« on: August 29, 2010, 08:36:31 PM »
No, Im in the 'Sarf... and I can tell you most of the good engineers are in your area!
176
« on: August 29, 2010, 07:05:28 PM »
Ted
It pretty obvious that to keep a 30-year old plus bike going you either need to have a basic knowledge of spannering or have someone who can do it for you. As for speciallist tools- not really- they use the standard M8, M10, M12, M14 M14 spanners. A good srewdriver kit- preferably a t-bar type is essential as screws become seized.
I was ballancing my cars again last weekend and prepping the bike for it- one of the srews on the inlet stubs would NOT shift and I took the head off it- terminal, one might assume.
I started the bike and got it nice and hot- then whacked it with my small tool-makers cold-chiseil I made at college in 1972. That was just sufficient to move it round a degree of so- yes, it was one of the inside carbs- then I could get it out- copper grease a new one- and carry on thinking thank f for that!
If Id taken it to a bike shop in the 70's, they would have had every right to charge me to remove the carbs and drill it out etc.
See if someone replys local to you- what part of the country are you in? (Thats why I put my locale in my last post)
PatM
177
« on: August 29, 2010, 06:50:23 PM »
I had all sorts of brake issues with my CX500 but I have to admit most of it was due to corrosion and riding it in all weathers- but what a bike! Most people that took the piss out of it were either loaded or had never ridden one. They were all-season bikes, for sure. I miss CUC 500V!
178
« on: August 29, 2010, 06:44:32 PM »
Hi, Ive had 2 over the years and worked on countless!
If you can get one that rund for
179
« on: August 26, 2010, 08:41:26 AM »
Thanks for all your comments and support on this one and all points noted and compared.
I have actually stripped and re-built the caliper as suggested and to my amazement- it was fairly clean inside and upon removing the seal- no growth or material build-up that may have been causing stiction.
On assembly and bleeding- I used standard DOT 5- there was little difference with the new pads
I then changed back to the old driven pad and left the new fixed- and the wheel rotated with minimum interference and rubbing- the adjusted being backed off a good deal- I suppose I got some satisfaction that I could know see the assembly moving, upon application of the brake-leaver.
And it was in that state that it passed the MOT.
My younger bro has a mint 400/4 and he's had 5 to my knowledge- loves them since they came out.
In his experience this is all very familiar. He said that EBC pads seem to be slightly more generous in thickness and in his recollection it took a good few hundred miles before the EBC pads worked properly!
180
« on: August 24, 2010, 08:45:19 PM »
MOT Passed!
Now I can enjoy!
s*it....its raining out there...maybe not..
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