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Messages - PatM
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46
« on: December 19, 2017, 09:29:01 PM »
i knew something didn't look right but thats why we are a community!
-bit like the time when I was bolting a 400/4 engine back in the frame and I put one of the LONGER bolts into the front LHS lower engine mounts- and I like things tight...so I tightened it and it went right through the crankcase and destroyed the engine....but, as Ive said on here before- parts were a plenty back in the 80's and i just brought another runner from a breakers for £50...
48
« on: December 17, 2017, 10:24:03 AM »
If I recall, i didn't follow that guide/procedure and settles all 4 slides so they were FULLY closed- that way the idle-circuit (which i believe is independent of throttles) operates. Then once started- adjust throttle-stop screw to achieve a reasonable idle and warm up/sync carbs off the gauges.
Ive certainly had the carbs causing the bike to rev-up to an unhealthy rpm, but dont remember the cure- in fact, i think my re-jetted 'spare' bank do that.
ill be interested to see the replies as Ill try (if it accords with my knowledge) whats suggested.
Ive always had an issue starting my bike form cold- and never once its been started or warm.
On start up, it runs on 3 then the 4th comes in...pop, pop in the silencer- No 3 (which is the problem carb or cylinder) exhaust is cold until fires..Ive tried everything i know.
49
« on: December 16, 2017, 10:48:29 AM »
Julie, you obviously know what you are doing, i have no doubt! As you say, the photo may have been viewed incorrectly by me- it was the 'springs' in the seals i was referring to- one seemed like it was trying to 'climb off' the seal.
Did you find anything that may have made the forks jam down?
I did my 400/4 seals ages ago due to the usual weeps/pits. Exactly the same as you- off the bike and tear-down.
I was alarmed at your engine/piston/head photos! and amazed it still ran!
50
« on: December 15, 2017, 05:08:24 PM »
Excellent photos- no reason to understand why the forks jammed down though.
the 2nd to last looks like the spring ring is displaced?
51
« on: December 12, 2017, 09:13:44 AM »
the two f/g seat bases I had were worn and the bracket moved (not while going along!)- so the DSS seat overcame this obvious defect and the fact that when open for servicing- the f/g was strained and cracking.
Regardless of the HONDA stencil on the back, Id recommend the replacement/upgrade. You can also adjust the position of the lock male spigot once more!
52
« on: December 11, 2017, 09:00:07 PM »
Ive had one for about a year now- not that I've done a years riding on it- it smartened the bike up (Ive had 2 fibre-glass ones on it from when I first brought the bike in 2009) I'm happy with it. I know it doesn't have the decal on the back but Im not fussed. It came well-packed and yes, Id recommend them to anyone.
53
« on: November 15, 2017, 09:32:43 PM »
The chewed-up tappet cover looks familiar! I have had one (in about 1989) completely snap off- the hex casting, leaving me no option to chisel out the remaining mess and on my present 400/4- which considering I had it all apart 5 years ago- one wouldn't shift until I took a chisel to it- which took a chip out of it and I had to replace one...
Ive rebuilt carbs a few times, in fact Ive got a set with new jets and never used laying about as spares- The only damage was they were in a plastic-bag which melted when my garage caught fire about 4 years ago- Yes, nearly a total loss but fully insured and all tools replaced- thanks to MORETHAN. I had been charging a LIPo Cell for my electric bike-kit and it exploded! took 2 fire-tenders to attend and finally put it out (i put the main faire out, but was overcome by smoke) WARNING- it does happen!!
The spare-carbs have melted plastic bag on them, but not completely- ie, it will pull off.
Id forgotten about that till i started writing this...Luckily my 4 bikes were not in that garage!
54
« on: November 13, 2017, 02:22:09 PM »
agree with this- if brake improvement is required and all other areas have been coved on the standard set-up, then a larger Master Cylinder bore is the preferred option.
I had a Triumph Daytona 995i that had sloppy brakes from new- Triumph even changed the disks! Eventually the bike was given to someone to use as a Track-day hack and the problem was realised by its new pilot!
He changed the master cylinder for a larger bore one and the problems was resolved!
For the sort of riding I do, i find the 400/4 adequate- its never going to lock up in the dry but I have lived with it as it is- Ive had a few 400/4s and one of them had its brake lines replaced for Goodrich hoses- TO BE HONEST- I noticed no difference at all except a hole in the bank account for the job.
i think the 400/4 brake performance, after all the mods are done with stock is a question of what are you comparing it with?
Ive seen 400/4s with twin disc setup from another bike- but i dont know what from? CX500?
It will look odd with the callipers on front/back of legs.
55
« on: November 01, 2017, 08:17:27 AM »
Snigger- funny that a good few of us are nearly or in my case- turned 60 (an a decent bit)
Why, only a few years ago we were saving up for one of these bikes and the missus always had other ideas!
Yep, the cold doth bite and the little Honda is best left in the garage if a newer bike with heated grips is available! ive 2 others- My 2001 R1, owned from new- that has grips fitted, I kid you not- ive never seen another with them , but i sued to do 100 miles to work and back in the early 2000's on it. the TEX has Oxford overs which work well but id not recommend them on a 400/4 .
I replaced my headlight with the one from DSS as my bulb had blown and the lights as we know are feeble.
I thought I might fit an HID to it but when I measured the current-draw, it was nearly a constant 4 amps- thats treated than the 35w candle.
So, ive got a halogen now and an LED pilot-lamp.
56
« on: November 01, 2017, 08:09:10 AM »
If the bike starts with the seat up then it could be the air inlet is blocked!
I had this on my one after replacing the seat and ignoring the 2 rubber bungs were shot or of different sizes.
A workaround to prove it is to leave the top off the air-filter box- thats how I was on the right track with mine- something simple took me ages to find- i even replaced the bank of carbs!
57
« on: October 24, 2017, 12:08:34 PM »
Well done- MOT and back in the garage until the roads dry up- It was very greasy this morning when i took my R1 for its MOT...
58
« on: October 22, 2017, 11:47:16 AM »
dont blame you laying up the bike as the roads start to get covered in salt anytime now.
I layed mine up for about 2 years, oil down bores and the occasional stab on the kickstarter when I went out for a fag in the garage- Id drained the carbs and there was little of anything combustable in the tank when i re-comissioned it in April this year. Fresh fuel and a few whirrs and it started ok and was duly MOT'd with no problems.
However, the brake fluid had gone down and there was no obvious signs of where to.
i topped up and bred a few tiny bubbles but nothing to get alarm about.
The brake has never been good- Ive a few bikes like us all- one of them an R1- Which is very sharp unless the fluids been heated in the sun...
Anyway, I just happened to feel the disc on the 400 and thought it was very slightly tacky...and we get to know what brake fluid feels like having played games with bikes and cars for 45 years or so.
Yes, the seller must be leaking- I ordered a new one and some service bits from DSS (God Bless Him) and the pads were dark in your and rusted to rot. thanks being polite.
Ive replaced the seal, cleaned any crud from the surface on the bit the pads sits into and am waiting to drum up the enthusiasm for a spin on it. Considering I dont purposely ride the Honda in poor weather or on wet roads, i was surprised how rusty the metal-part of the driven pad was.
We shall see if cleaning up efforts are worth a new set or not- those ones were EBC I think back in 2010...
59
« on: October 06, 2017, 10:01:22 AM »
Ive had at least 3 400/4s over the years and can say from my experience that there has always been a problem with getting enough bite, comparing it with a modern bike.
You can eliminate air by correct and successful bleeding of the system- we all have our preferences, but mines to pump the leaver till its rock hard, then release nipple (with some clear bleed -hose into a jar of fluid- to stop air getting back on release. A bit of grease put on the threads of the nipple is a good tip- it saves air sneaking past )
Once you are sure all the air is expelled (and im presuming the hoses are not spongy and the pivot-pin isn't seized) its time to look at the pads.
After a run on new pads with plenty of brake-stops (generally, i found the first one is very poor even though the brake application seems hard)- the pads will START to BED in.
To give an idea, my present 400/4 took a good 2 years before i was happy with it.
I took the pads out after the first 100 miles and i could plainly see what pits hadn't been rubbing on the disc- id say 50 % wasn't on contact.
So, to speed up the process, i filed some of the wear area to assist bedding in and that did it- i now, through trial and error, have 100% pad to disc contact.
Its often the case that the hydraulic bits are blamed or suspect as faulty- but you can get a hard feel on the brake, but with poor stopping operation.
60
« on: August 15, 2017, 09:15:00 AM »
i won't pay that shit for parts- thats just a piss-take. I've had mine for a number of years now and some bits i simply won't and can't afford to buy- like to tool tray and lid- no thanks- I've got a wrap of tools to do me for the occasional breakdown.
Ive replaced some parts but usually through honest breakers or DSS
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