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Topics - Oddjob
106
« on: April 12, 2022, 03:41:13 PM »
Just noticed that posts made both by myself and other members are missing from a few days ago.
I have a thread called What would you do, it's about a seat pan, few posts with comments and suggestions from Andy, Trigger and Ash as far as I remember and they are now all missing including my reply from last night.
Why's that happening Steve, it's like the forum has used a backup from a few days ago and lost loads of posts.
107
« on: April 09, 2022, 09:31:18 PM »
I've started to work on one of my seat pans off the 500. It was plastic coated (anyone remember that process) back in the late 70s and has been used on the bike the last time it was roadworthy. Since then it's sat in a garage being pissed on by rats for 30 years. Strangely the plastic coating has protected the seat pan really well, it has however started to crack and lift in small areas so I've decided to remove the coating.
I'm not going to say this was easy, the seen part of the pan I used a scraper on after heating the plastic in order to soften it, this worked pretty well and large areas would come off in one go. The coating was about 2mm thick. It took about 2 hours to remove all the bottom of the pan, it's not in bad nick considering. However the upper surface next to the foam is another proposition, that didn't want to come off with the same method. In the end I decided to melt it off using a MAP gas blowtorch, this was messy, smelly and time consuming, it's about 80% done. However whilst doing this I have noticed that all the seat cover clips and various other little ones, like the handbook pocket, were in really poor condition. Most as really rusty and starting to crumble, they were probably in this condition when it was plastic coated.
So as any seat recoverer doesn't AFAIK use these clips are they worth keeping. They promote rust, catch your fingers and are pretty much useless. If I removed them I can grind the spot welds off and clean up around them, which is difficult if they stay in place.
So remove them or keep them?
I may have a word with Tony Archer who does my seat recovers for me and see if he's ever used them, I wonder how they get the new cover to attach to a steel pan, glue? Tony used staples when doing my 1300 seat but that's got a plastic pan.
I'll be sanding down the pan before having some welding done on it, one of the captive nuts for the hinge plate has stripped so I'll get a new one welded on, I've spotted a small crack just next to the reinforcing plate welded to the top of the pan where the hinge plate attaches, this seems to be a weak spot as I've spotted other pans with the same crack, it's right where the plate stops so clearly it's flexing too much and cracking the pan as a result. I may have that reinforced when it's being welded.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
108
« on: March 17, 2022, 05:07:58 PM »
Looking for a set of tyres for the 500 and I've got a thing about Michelin Tyres at the moment, just love them, spotted they do these Road Classic tyres and they look the part, also do them in 100/90x19 which is my preferred tyre for the front Lester.
Anyone got them fitted and what are they like if you have please.
110
« on: February 18, 2022, 08:33:47 PM »
The 750 points cover has gone from £50 a few months ago to around £250. That's clearly because demand has out stripped supply.
So what do you think is the next part to do the same? When I say the next I don't mean parts that already command really high prices, like tanks, seats, ready painted panels etc
I'm of the opinion that it could be either genuine points/condensers or shell bearings.
Any other candidates.
111
« on: February 15, 2022, 10:31:46 PM »
Still in bag, perfect condition as far as I know. It's for the F model so is flat sided not tubed like the 550K.
£100 inc P&P. CMS still have a couple for £123 plus P&P, which at the moment seems to be out of control.
Offered first on here, will go on Ebay if not sold.
112
« on: February 12, 2022, 05:49:33 PM »
As per my other thread I have since found that the GSXR-750 camchain fits the CB500/550, not sure about the 400 (does the 400 use a DID 219T chain?) the chain is a DID (original Honda chain supplier) 219FTH, however there appears to be a lack of 88 link chains in the 219FTH range. I have sourced some 94 link chains and rivet links for the 500/550 and an exceptionally good camchain splitter/rivetter which gives results identical to the factory, there are pics on the other thread of the results.
I am seeing if there is any demand for these types of chains, they can stand greater load (ideal for big bore conversions) and have a greater tensile strength, they are also flat sided so not only are they kinder to the tensioner blade but they will be quieter in operation as well. I'd imagine they'll last longer due to the stronger construction.
I can order a few chains and cut them down to 88 links, post them onward for a price of £35 inc P&P. This could be subject to a change, depends on postal rates but it's a good ballpark figure.
I'll make a small profit, the cutting and riveting is a time consuming job and the special tool to do this was expensive so the profit will cover the costs of buying that. Hopefully I'll break even after some time.
I need 10 committed to buying, I have 2 already, another 8 and I'll move on it.
Let me know either here or via PM.
Hope this is ok Steve, once I break even and if demand is still there I'll donate a sum of each sale to the forum.
113
« on: February 04, 2022, 03:05:48 PM »
Been reading about one riders experience using a 1990-95 Suzuki GSXR-750 camchain instead of the usual DID chain in the 500/550 engine. Evidently it's flat sided so kinder to the tensioners, has a larger contact area so is quieter than standard. It's longer so means you need to split the chain and re-rivet which is a set back but can be done with a push bike chain splitter, he reused the existing rivets.
Evidently he's fitted one in a race engine revving to 10000rpm and he's done over 20 races with it fitted without any problems, most of them at insane RPM.
Anyone ever heard of this or tried it?
Since found the same chain in 90 links, unfortunately there appears to be no 88 link available, 90 links is only just over £22, soft link another £1.20. From all accounts the chain is stronger than the standard chain being a 219FTH chain.
115
« on: January 31, 2022, 02:53:19 PM »
I sent an email to Philpotts the other day asking if they could hard chrome the damper rods on my Marzocchi AG Strada shocks. They are 12mm in diameter but only 133mm long.
I got a reply last night quoting £95 inc VAT each. Considering the price they charge for a fork stanchion is that exorbitant?
116
« on: January 22, 2022, 04:04:15 PM »
117
« on: January 17, 2022, 10:27:19 AM »
Two Scotsmen go to Hell.
A demon approaches the devil and says "Dark lord! Two men from Glasgow in Scotland have been sent here. What should be done with them? "
The devil says "Glaswegians? Their kind are normally very friendly, helpful and honest, so we do not see many such men in my dark domain... Hang them in a cage over the lake of fire for now and I shall check on them later."
But when the devil flew up to the cage to check on the Scotsmen, he found them happily lounging around with their shirts off.
"What is the meaning of this?" The devil cried. "You're supposed to be in torment!"
The Glaswegians looked surprised "Naw" they said "it's pure quality taps aff weather here man. It's no drab an' dreek like Scotland, you know that way?"
Fuming, the devil flew to the great thermostat of Hell and cranked it all the way to the top. And the next day, the temperature was so high that even the demons were sweating, the stones of hell were melting and the flames from the lake of fire were leaping higher than ever before.
So the devil was surprised when he visited the Scotsmen and found that they had somehow procured plastic lawn furniture and Buckfast tonic wine.
Raising a glass to the devil, one of the Scotsmen said "Hey big man! If I'd known it was so lovely an warm doon here, I'd've done a whole lot more sinning! Weather's always shite in Glasgae. Always freezin' ma nuts off, you know?"
"I see." The devil replied, smiling though clenched teeth "your dismal country has given you a great love of heat. The hotter it is, the happier you are. Well, we'll see about that."
So saying, he flew to the great thermostat of Hell once more, but this time, he turned it all the way down.
The next day, the lake of fire was frozen solid for the first time, sinners were frozen in blocks of ice and demons huddled in corners for warmth, their teeth chattering. But when the devil visited the Scotsmen, he found them jumping for joy, tearfully cheering "Scotland! SCOTLAND!!!"
The devil's jaw dropped. "What? Why? How? I burn you and you are happy! I freeze you and you celebrate! What is wrong with you?"
One of Glaswegians turned back and said "Is it no feckin' obvious ye daft bastart? Hell's frozen over! Scotland's won the world cup!"
118
« on: January 14, 2022, 06:36:53 AM »
I've always been a fan of original Honda equipment, if I can still get it that's what I use. However the chrome dishes on my 550F2 clocks whist still looking reasonable were starting to show small pits etc and I decided to get them rechromed. I did look for new ones as sometimes it's cheaper to buy new than have old stuff rechromed. However the original part number seems to have been susperceded to another bikes dishes, so 37236-404-000 is now 37236-426-000. Seems ok except they are very slightly different, some of the holes seem to have moved IIRC. That didn't sit well with me so I decided to just go with the rechrome. All was well until one day I'm trawling ebay and comes across these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302689446031, £39 for a pair when CMS want about that for one, worth a look I feel so I buy them. When they arrive, last January as it turns out, I just give them a cursory look and store the box for when I get round to having the clocks renovated by Peter Kent. Moving forward some months now, the clocks come back from Peter and a very good job he did of restoring them, I didn't post any pics of them when they returned as I wanted to post a pic when they were mounted (sorry Peter). So finally I get round to doing some work on the clocks and here's where I notice what's appears to be different about the dishes. I always go OTT on trying to keep the parts I buy in as good a condition as I can, so I tend to paint everything that can't be seen BUT can still rust with zinc 182 paint, usually by brush as it can flow into voids etc. So out comes the dishes so I can paint the inside of the dish, now I do a LOT of polishing and I can spot the signs of something that's been polished and these have, there is still polishing compound around the inside of the holes in the dish, you can even see it on the pics on the ebay auction, as I always degrease the surface first, when I start to apply brake cleaner it started to dissolve the polish, this made me wonder, why polish a chrome finish, yes they polish the metal before chroming but any residue would dissolve in the chroming process, I then notice the colour of the metal, it's not mild steel like the 550 dishes, it looks stainless steel. The outside on inspection has clearly been polished to shine like chrome, hence the polish residue. So these are stainless and thus almost immune to rust, unlike the standard dishes. For me that's a big win as they do tend to get grit strikes in transit and that causes pitting and before you know it you've got flakes of chrome coming off. So I thought I'd point that out for anyone restoring a 550 or even a 750 with the same size dishes, even the 500K2 are the same I think. I may have a little play with them to see if I can increase the level of shine on them, you never know, they could look even better than the standard ones and they are certainly cheaper as well.
119
« on: January 05, 2022, 08:57:46 PM »
I seem to recall that the K3 pull cable is far longer than the CB500/550 ones due to the PD carbs and the position of the butterfly. I'm looking to see if my memory is correct, I need to know after all the cable is pulled out at the bottom (carb end) how much inner cable is showing, I can then compare that with the standard cable and see what if any the difference is.
If you've got the push cable handy same measurement would be great thanks.
I'm trying to reduce the amount of throttle movement is required and this will help me work out the mod, one mod is at the handlebar end and one at the carb end, unfortunately the carb end ones won't work on the K3, well not unless you can adapt it but the handlebar end is ok for all the SOHC fours are far as I know. Once it's done I'll pass on the details, the handlebar one already works and reduces full opening by 8-10mm. It's a fairly cheap mod (around £10-15) and requires no real mechanical ability.
120
« on: December 13, 2021, 11:16:29 PM »
I'm going to start zinc/nickel plating shortly and one of the things I'd like some help with is working out the area of where I'll be plating. Ideally I'd like a sort of gun which lasers the bolt etc and just gives a figure so I could add up all the parts I'd be plating in one go and then I can work out the ampage. Anyone know of anything that might be suitable or am I asking for the moon here. Can't be too expensive of course.
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