Honda-SOHC

That's a bummer 'Mo. Always crap when a seller doesn't tell you the full story.

Worth somebody else chipping in here but you can check the shifter mechanism without separating the crank-cases (you  just have to take off clutch cover) See diagrams for things to check like the shifter shaft mechanism 1 and springs 2 &3 in top diagram attached.  ( and profiled shift plate and pins on the end of the shift drum plus the two spings 3 & 12  and associated roller mech 11. Also the spring loaded pin 9 that is mounted in the top crankcase and runs in the guides of the shifter drum. (possibly the 1st thing to check I guess before removing clutch cover etc) . Other than that you would have to check the shift forks and drum, which means removing the bottom crankcase. On the bomber the crank is totally different to most other Hondas of the period and later, in that the crank has pillar blocks mounted in the top case .... so splitting the cases (with top end undisturbed) is not too daunting ... albeit a pain in the ar*e seeing as you bought a supposedly restored bike. I feel you pain.

Perhaps someone else can chip in and confirm what I am saying ... Bryan/RoyHalliwell etc.

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It's not listed as a separate item in any of my sloper parts books but the silencer is the same as the CD125A sloper, which lists it as a C100 etc -001- part.
18311-001-030

Hate having to recommend this thieving b*sta*rd near me for one but he has them and, for once in his life not too bad a price. Can't guarantee they will fit but nearly sure. I can measure or sketch a NOS sloper one I have if you like to ask him to compare (not for sale though as off my NOS sloper silencer).

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255988586298

Here is a pic of mine:-

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I often just do a screenshot using Snipping Tool in Windows. Resolute enough and not s massive file ... so posts easily.

Well the seller in the eBay link for ProXL Primer has read my post on another forum, thanked me  and amended the listing.

Has anyone used the 2K rattle cans where you press the valve in the bottom to add the activator?

Was thinking about using them on my 550 frame.

I have used Spraymax2k clearcoat gloss and satin (made in Germany)  and another make of 2k high build primer ProXL (made in UK) and they are truly excellent, particularly the clear. The finish is excellent and the spray pattern is too and consistent right until the end of the can.

However, they usually contain isocyanate so I invested in an air fed mask.

Had a run in with ProXL. Bought their high build 2k-in-a can high build primer/ filler and it stated on all eBay sellers descriptions and the manufacturers product date sheet that it did NOT contain isocyanate. Bought 2 cans to try and in tiny print on the can is stated "contains isocyanate'. I called the manufacturer in the UK and the lady on the phone was adamant that it doesn't contain isocyanate,  so I challenged her why the can says it does. She said she would refer it to their tech people and get back to me. Heard nothing, Phoned again 2 weeks later and no more info, so I told them to get their act together. Then got an email telling me it DOES contain isocyanate and they were amending the datasheet. Checked online a month later and datasheet not changed so I told them they had 2 weeks to change it otherwise I was going to report them to the HSE. Couple of days later datasheet  got changed accordingly  but not checked the eBay sellers.

I think some companies may  sell non-isocayante cured clear coat like RS Bikepaints ... not so sure in a 2k aerosol though....  but heard  it stays like a fly paper for ages and generally inferior.

Best place for Spraymax2k clear is Graff-City ... not cheap but goes a long way and if you get 3 cans it's free delivery over £60

https://www.graff-city.com/spray-paint-c128/spraymax-2k-clear-coat-gloss-400ml-p4243/s21760?cid=GBP&glCurrency=GBP&glCountry=GB

UPDATE ... Blo*dy 'ell eBay seller still not changed description. 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174189057836


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On one of Allen Millyard’s videos on YouTube, he put carb bodies in a bucket of water mixed with alloy wheel cleaner.

Left them in for a few minutes until the water stopped fizzing and they came out pretty good.

Hope it's not the alloy wheel cleaner that used hydrofluoric acid ... really nasty stuff that. I have 5l of it that somebody gave me  but always chicken out of using it.

Sorry Mo ... not sure what you need from me ... it sounds like you have the wiring details pretty much sussed out if you are wiring directly and not going through the bikes main loom ? Or am I missing something?

I recently bought some from Planet Silicone on eBay in nitrile rubber. Pretty sure the OD is slightly larger than the Honda original though (for 400F)