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Messages - SpannerBrat
1
« on: May 06, 2020, 12:40:36 PM »
Ka-Ja - If I understand your suggestion correctly, it doesn’t seem as simple as swapping them. The threads are different diameters. There’s also a “scoop” out of the casting at the hose entry point that allows the banjo to exit without fouling anything. Thanks for the link. Some interesting info. That’s certainly more effort than I’m hoping I’m going to have to get involved with.
Lobo - Thanks. Yes, I’ve heard that bleeding can be more troublesome in the linked calliper configuration. I’ve no particular issue running 2 full length hoses (one to each side) but before I buy anymore kit (another branded hose), is there any practical issue having the bleed nipple above (or below) the hose entry point?
2
« on: May 05, 2020, 09:39:30 PM »
At least they’re on the correct side of the forks!
So my LHS is OK but the RHS is not.
I had considered running 2 lines from the MC - 1 to each side - & still might. I’d just thought that one line down to the wheel with a connecting line was cleaner (I could imagine that bleeding would be easier with 2 same length lines tho).
So, will the RH calliper cause me problems (bleeding?) as it is?
3
« on: May 05, 2020, 03:09:20 PM »
Hi,
As part of my ‘76 K2 cafe / brat build, I found out I had non-std forks (CB750 SS / similar) so I’ve taken the opportunity to convert the front end to a twin disc setup using CX500 callipers (the one calliper I bought within the box of nuts’n’bolts’n’stuff was CX...../ similar). I found a matching cal [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ] liper for the other side & overhauled both parts. However, it appears that they’re not a mirror of each other. The hangers are handed (R & L as can be seen in the attached but the brake hose mounting points appear to be in the same position in both sides.
So my 1st question is - does it matter? I’m planning on a single hose to one calliper & looping over to the other so having matchy-matchy hides isn’t a worry for me (although it would have been nice for asthetics).
My 2nd question related to the location of the callipers - I’ve seen std bikes of the era of various cc’s with them both in front of the forks & behind (as I currently have them). Is there an optimum configuration and are there any issues (safety / performance) with having them one way or the other?
Thanks for any help / info.
4
« on: May 04, 2020, 01:21:09 PM »
It looks like people may well know more about them than this alternative brain box (I wonder if that’s where they got the “name” from) 
5
« on: May 01, 2020, 07:57:27 AM »
 Nice! I missed that one. Went with lab rat after having a mental block trying to spell ginnie...gunea....guiney.....guinnie......guiny.......grrrrrr
6
« on: April 30, 2020, 05:22:36 PM »
Hi Brian, Same here but it seems legit & potentially worth looking into for others in a similar position https://www.digital-speedos.co.uk/axel-joost-m18 Being so hampered by my woeful lack of knowledge regarding electrics, being a lab rat doesn’t help calm my nerves 
7
« on: April 30, 2020, 04:45:56 PM »
Hi all,
It seems like forever that I've been meaning to pull the trigger on attempting a "from scratch" loom for my '76 K2 CB550 cafe / brat & I was planning on going down the M-Unit route. Certainly not cheap but perhaps an"easier" path for my limited knowledge of auto electrics (there's always going to be you guys & you tube to help educate me). However, just this week I've picked up on a similar but cheaper alternative solution.....namely, the Axel Joost B-Box & I was wondering if any of you had had any experience of the B-Box (I appreciate that although not universally embraced, the M-Unit is generall regarded as a decent bit of kit but I've never seen / heard anything mentioned about the B-Box)?
It seems like the main differences are that the B-Box is a cheaper option but that it has less whistles & bells & perhaps has a slightly less stealthy install (the components from Axel Joost seem generally larger so will take up correspondingly more real-estate on / in the bike). Cost is certainly up there when it comes to what goes into the build, but space is limited & functionality of the final solution is always being considered. I think I'm right in saying that once you're on your way down the Motogadget rabbit hole, it's Motogadget kit all the way. Is that the same with Axel Joost or can you use components from others?
I'd be grateful to hear anyone's experience, help, info or advice to hopefully move to pushing the button on the next big part of my project.
Thanks.
8
« on: September 12, 2018, 09:10:07 PM »
Hi K2-K6,
Thanks. it seems like a bit of a minefield when it comes to messing about changing / mixing braking system components (& not a comfortable field at that). It sounds like i’m going to have to take a bit of a punt on a 16mm radial MC (Nissin seems a good solid option), hook up some new braided hoses & test that when it comes to the bike moving under its own steam. It’s not running yet so I was hoping sorting the front end out would be a relatively simple & inexpensive job before getting round to the pricier jobs like sending the carbs off to be rebuilt (that’s a task that’s well outside my comfort zone / pay grade). It seems a shame not to act on all this useful info i’ve gathered so will scour eBay for a suitable MC (& matching clutch lever if possible).
9
« on: September 12, 2018, 02:15:04 PM »
Hi John (& everyone else), Thanks for the reply & I believe you're right (regarding needing to calculate what's needed). Unfortunately I've become increasingly confused as I've looked into what I should be looking for in the new MC. From this link - https://www.vintagebrake.com/mastercylinder.htm - as I've got 2 x 38mm pistons (I'd forgotten I was using CX calipers....sorry. Perhaps I should really have started the topic on the CX forum but hopefully it's something some of you can still help with) & based on that page/chart, I should be looking for a MC with an 11mm bore size to give me a "preferred" 23.87 ratio. Taking that as correct (& I've no idea if it is), I'm struggling to find a MC that will be suitable. My hunt is made more difficult because the exiting cylinder - where the fluid is pushed out - of the old style MCs is in line with the bar & as can be seen on the photo of my bike (further up this thread), the mounting end of the clip-on gets in the way of the cylinder. So, I have 2 questions: 1) Is that ratio figure "correct" in relation to getting the right feel (I appreciate that "feel" is a subjective term but there must be a figure that's widely understood as being inbetween bartouchinly spongy & oak-like wooden)? 2) Taking the ratio as correct, does anyone have a suggested solution to solve the need for an 11mm bore radial MC to clear my clip-on by any chance? I'll get there in the end but it's resisting me at the moment. Andy
10
« on: September 04, 2018, 03:27:06 PM »
Thanks a Oddjob. I have indeed found several MCs on fleabay (from various manufacturers & bikes). I was wondering - for instance - if a Nissin unit from an R1 (correct bar size assumed) would work equally as well as one from a Blade or GSXR1000 (not that I’m specifically looking from a ltr bike)? Or, should I actually looking for a radial MC from any modern 600? There seems so many options available & I can’t imagine they will ALL work as well as each other. I’ve read all sorts of stories of lock-ups to “wooden” feel & it’s not a particularly cheap bit to buy if it turns out not to work.
11
« on: September 03, 2018, 07:19:21 AM »
The clip-ons are 22mm dia & I have a mirror that’s a bar end clamp style so, conveniently, mounting points on the MC, aren’t an issue.
That link looks like the right kind of thing (although I can’t see the bar dia mentioned in the description) but i’m always rather suspicious (rightly or wrongly) about unfamiliar / non-branded parts. I’d prefer a 2ndhand Nissin or similar from an actual bike ideally (i’ve always thought of braking as a part of a bike you want to get “right”) but would consider strong recommendations of reliable alternatives.
12
« on: September 02, 2018, 11:06:30 PM »
It is the (cast?) main body of the master cylinder unit that’s fouling against the bars so eliminating the banjo bolt arrangement wouldn’t make any difference (but it’s worth knowing for future reference). It seems that the design of the radial brake master cylinder & lever would clear the machines parts of the clip-ons that i’m having issues with with the std unit. Has anyone any experience of any that give good feel / performance?
13
« on: September 02, 2018, 04:37:56 PM »
Hi all,
Thanks for the comments & suggestions so far. I thought to try the std cylinder/lever arrangement that I have here but on offering it up to the bike, it turns out that the cylinder exiting from the brake unit fouls against the clip-ons i’m using. So i’m expecting the GL unit wouldn’t work either & therefore it seems a plan C might be needed. That being the case, the BMW option (thx Matthew) is worth investigating but I find myself wondering what a radial setup would work like (with remote “sample pot” - fortunately i’m not completely adverse to the look). Has anyone any guidance on what I should be looking for there (appropriate model, year, part generally from a larger capacity bike or does it really matter)?
14
« on: August 27, 2018, 07:34:50 PM »
Thanks for the comments.
I’d be ok using anything that works well tbh (GL, CB, whatever). I’m just a bit confused on the bore size situation. Is there a simple rule of thumb like “the larger the bore, the less grip force required (or visa Verda)?
There’s so much choice out there from cheep (£20 & even less) units that have surely got to be made of cheese, to ridiculous (£hundreds) & from onboard reservoirs to “remote” styles. The bike’s a mixture of all sorts of parts & is planned as a brat/cafe so anything goes really. I’m just trying to understand what exactly I’m looking for to give me decent performance. I’ll not be blasting around the N.Yorks moors wearing out knee sliders at every opportunity but equally, i’d like to know i’ve got some effective anchors if/when needed.
15
« on: August 27, 2018, 10:44:25 AM »
Thanks Bryan,
The bore of the GL MS seems to be 14mm but 16mm is the number being thrown up by searches for 550/750 MSs. Could you educate me on which I should be tending towards & why (i’m assuming from your recomendation of GL, the smaller bore is better)?
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