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Messages - TwiggsiiieS
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1
« on: June 05, 2018, 09:02:10 PM »
Take your point Ken, that happens with feelers as well but as Ian says you can hold tight with the knurled bit and watch your mark as you tighten.
Steve
2
« on: June 05, 2018, 07:15:44 PM »
Thanks orcadian, yeah a bit more clearance at least its on the safe side.
Thinking about it, when the tappet screw touches down any slack, slack in the thread will already be taken up, mark noted on a fixed point and when you back it off 1/10, the lock nut, although tighter, cant pull it up very much more.
Well that's my theory, will try it and check it out with a DTI gauge!
Steve
3
« on: June 05, 2018, 05:32:12 PM »
Well I have hands like bananas and little patience with a feeler gauge that's tricky to get in the right place down a black hole and then and then!
I was just gonna make 10 equal marks on the top of the tool, less chance of getting it wrong and paper thin gauge staying in the tool box in tact!
Just bought the tool from Honda Classics with a good knob to make the marks on.
Well I will check one to make sure.
4
« on: June 05, 2018, 04:57:40 PM »
There was a thread on this but got bogged down with electrical connectors.
Just got down to looking at this idea and can confirm that the tappet screw pitch on my 400/F is 0.5mm.
so 1/10 turn would be good for 0.05mm(2 thou).
Just bought a tappet tool too and is much easier! much!
The tappet screw stops quickly as it touches the valve stem, back it off 1/10 (36°), job done!
Or is it? Anyone see a problem with this?
5
« on: May 27, 2018, 06:58:46 PM »
Lol
I'm looking forward to it now!
6
« on: May 27, 2018, 12:35:18 PM »
Thanks K2-K6, That's great info, the chain cant be lifted off the sprocket  . I will put it back together and ride with the dead spot until winter. I know the compression on ALL is low but starts and pulls well apart from the dead spot(gets worse with heat)? I guess the low compression is a valve seat issue as it doesn't burn oil.
7
« on: May 26, 2018, 09:15:58 AM »
Thanks Bryan,
Obviously the valve timing must be ok but just for infomation, do you know about the Valve timing, at 5° BTDC should the inlet valves just start to open?
8
« on: May 24, 2018, 01:24:12 PM »
Hi all,
Having issues sorting the dreaded pilot cct, rides best with the air screws almost out (4 Turns)
All stock #40 pilot,#75 main, filter, filter box, Carbs clean.
So decided to check everything Vacuum synced, Ignition timing good etc.
Valve timing:
I assumed that if i were to just detect the movement of say the inlet rocker on 4 I could look at the timing mark through the points plate and see it ~ 5° before the 'T' mark( roughly on the 'F' mark). However it is just before the two advance timing marks! probably about 30° BTDC. Checked it twice! I must misunderstand something?
Is the spec 5 BTDC when the valve is fully open?
So took the rocker cover off to check the Cam Markings. Set crank to 1-4 TDC and the marks on the cam sprocket are almost flush with the casting, if I line them up exactly the fixed timing mark lines up with the left hand edge of the letter 'T', about 2 or 3° ATDC.
Is this chain stretch? I don't think its far enough out to be a link out. Is it too far out?
Great to solve this one thanks in advance.
9
« on: April 01, 2016, 08:21:47 PM »
Weird thing tonight, just did the point gaps and static timing, and went well , started her up and checked cylinder 1 with a strobe perfect although the mechanical advance was at the upper end, changed strobe to cylinder 2 and the tickover timing was spot on but the mechanical advance was way past the marks!
How can that be, anyway before I could investigate more my new timing light packed up.
Anyone seen this before?
Steve
10
« on: March 22, 2016, 10:13:29 PM »
Yep makes sense you want to reseal everything, it just gonna have to leak for the season and will sort next winter.
There's about four drips when if first stops. I can live with that.
I have a sinking feeling that the end of the counter shaft may be damaged, will have to wait and see!
Thanks,
Steve
11
« on: March 21, 2016, 09:36:39 PM »
Thanks all, have only just got the bike and want to ride it a bit( well alot) before I pull it to bits. Yes Royhalls thread is very smilar but different seal. I will re read the whole thread again. Dont know how to go back to it while replying but i remember someone mentioning "opening the crankcase a tadge" is this doable in situ?I think I will buy a seal just to what it looks like.
12
« on: March 21, 2016, 03:03:05 PM »
Can anyone tell me if this seal can be replaced without splitting the crankcase, its the one behind the front chain sprocket.
The schematic seem to show a locating pin on the top. Seems like this could be common problem but I can't find any threads, so sorry if I've missed it and thanks in advance. Its a 1978 400f
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