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Messages - Clem2112
1
« on: January 02, 2020, 08:17:02 AM »
The self tensioning mechanism was marginal at best on the 400. The spring loses shove over time. With care a bit of 'help' from above via that blanked hole usually works.
2
« on: June 14, 2019, 06:07:45 PM »
and we ran them on the cheapest 2 star petrol
3
« on: June 09, 2019, 10:21:11 AM »
Thats the starter lockout works like a sidestand switch
4
« on: April 29, 2019, 10:42:46 PM »
Re-painted as a later F2 but it has the early speedo
5
« on: April 29, 2019, 10:30:23 PM »
Someone went to a lot of expense on that, from the photos at least. Why do they so often position the side panel decals too low..... minor detail but easy to get it right.
6
« on: April 22, 2019, 06:59:20 AM »
Rear sprocket also floats slightly on the rubber dampers, is there excessive play here? Also look at the front/rear alignment of the sprockets. Were all three items renewed as a set, a worn sprocket might make more noise on a new chain.
7
« on: April 21, 2019, 11:25:18 PM »
Chain hitting the swingarm at the front? Check the free play in the lower run.
8
« on: April 02, 2019, 12:07:45 PM »
I bought a set of the 'prototype' dampers from ttr400 about 4 years ago. Still have the jiffy bag in the garage with S.A. stamps on it ! Since my bike has had so little use since I will have to strip the clutch again to take a peek !! From memory the elastomer used was a blue moulded shape to match the original type. My clutch needed rebuilding in any case as one of the rivet heads had sheared off.
9
« on: March 05, 2019, 04:42:21 PM »
The only real fault with the design of this engine is that mickey-mouse tensioner. Why they didn't put it at the rear of the block like all other fours only Honda know. Possibly, the designers thought it was a too tight a squeeze to access the thing beneath the carbs?
I think the owners' handbook describes that to tension the chain, the engine should not be not running but rotated to TDC on one pair of cylinders, before loosening then re-tightening the adjuster bolt. Might work on a newish engine but I was shown how to do it with the motor idling and applying gentle firce down the top with a small screwdriver to help it as the springs apparently lost tension after a while.
10
« on: February 15, 2019, 03:43:43 PM »
Cheap household fan and all doors wide open !
11
« on: January 29, 2019, 09:39:11 AM »
Unless the long studs have damaged threads, leave them alone. If they are stuck, the extra torque needed will likely strip the threads from the top case. Unlike the rocker cover studs, the top crankcase ones stay put for years and will have corrosion around the casing joint face.
12
« on: January 27, 2019, 11:34:27 AM »
More current in that wire?, gets warmer than the others. 40 years of use, so 4x original planned life, not bad. Looming issues.
13
« on: January 20, 2019, 09:51:39 AM »
Honda didnt want anyone messing with the mix !
14
« on: December 14, 2018, 11:31:05 AM »
That's the very one.
15
« on: December 13, 2018, 11:40:35 PM »
Bought a "genuine" Honda tappet adjuster many years ago. No spanner part to loosen/tighten the locknut, just a square drive to suit the tappet with a small plastic handwheel. Used with a cranked 8mm ring spanner this seems to work ok. I always have to back off the adjustment a small amount ( from .002") when tightening the locknut as the set gap closes slightly despite resisting the torque with the adjuster tool. I guess the fancy version works like the old SPQR tappet tool to make life easier?
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