Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB750 => Topic started by: UK Pete on November 25, 2017, 01:56:01 PM
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Has any one had success in painting an assemble engine that's out of the frame
Pete
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That would depend on how picky you are about things and finish, like gaskets showing and bolt heads and suchlike. I have painted several complete engines and been happy with the results, and the finish has lasted several years before requiring attention. :)
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I painted my Guzzi engine with POR15 Engine enamel.
The engine was stripped so that I could clean it thoroughly and I thinned the paint with white spirit so that I could spray it rather than brush it on.
When it dries it is heat and petrol proof.
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e254/gtmdriver/guzzi%20build/21112009323.jpg) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/gtmdriver/media/guzzi%20build/21112009323.jpg.html)
(http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e254/gtmdriver/guzzi%20build/Finishedengivebox3.jpg) (http://s41.photobucket.com/user/gtmdriver/media/guzzi%20build/Finishedengivebox3.jpg.html)
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Did you use POR 15 metal prep on the aluminium.
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Looks like a nice job.... i may go down this route with my CB750k...
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Done mine and happy with the result. use blue tack or similar over bolt heads/nuts to cover and peel off after :)
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used simonez engine enamel.
Be careful to bake it out at 200C to fully cure it. you'll find this with most engine enamels.
I've found htat curing by running the engine does not always work.
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That's because not all of the engine parts get hot enough.
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used simonez engine enamel.
Be careful to bake it out at 200C to fully cure it. you'll find this with most engine enamels.
I've found htat curing by running the engine does not always work.
So not a lot of good for the original poster's question on spraying a complete engine, as even if you could find an oven big enough to hold a complete Honda four engine, I wouldn't rate the chances of the oil seals putting up with that level of heat for long! ;)
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Great replys thanks, I will give it a go love the idea of bluetac on bolt heads
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Did you use POR 15 metal prep on the aluminium.
Since I had the engine in bits I could do a real thorough job.
I degreased the parts using old style Jizer then removed the corrosion using Clarks Alloy Cleaner (Machine Mart).
I put all the parts through a hot cycle in the dishwasher then used POR15 Metal Ready (now Metal Prep) before spraying them with thinned POR15 Engine Enamel.
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How about using a hot air gun to set the paint; would that work?
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used simonez engine enamel.
Be careful to bake it out at 200C to fully cure it. you'll find this with most engine enamels.
I've found htat curing by running the engine does not always work.
So not a lot of good for the original poster's question on spraying a complete engine, as even if you could find an oven big enough to hold a complete Honda four engine, I wouldn't rate the chances of the oil seals putting up with that level of heat for long! ;)
Well said, i was thinking the same thing.. I’m pretty sure curung the paint with the motor running will be ok, never had any real problems in the past...
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According to the blurb for por15 engine enamel there is no baking required it air cures.
Apply in well-ventilated area only. Ideal ambient temperature for application is 70°F,
but an acceptable temperature range is between 50-80°F. Mix POR-15® Engine
Enamel by stirring only. Do not shake. POR-15® Engine Enamel can usually be brushed
without thinning. A full coat will usually cover but if a second coat is needed, apply
when first coat is dry to the touch (no finger drag) and within 24 hours of first coat.
Dry Time: Wait 4-6 days before starting engine.
Previously Finished or Primed Surfaces: Using POR-15® Cleaner Degreaser
ensure that the surface is clean, dry, and free from oil, grease, dirt, salts, and any other
contaminants. All blistered and loose paint must be removed. Glossy surfaces should
be roughened with 320 grit before recoating.
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All correct.
POR15 Engine Enamel doesn't need to be heat cured but I found that it had a poor finish when brushed on.
Very streaky and uneven. That's why I thinned and sprayed it.
You may be happy with the brushed finish especially if you buy a good brush for the job.
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Did you thin with white spirit, what % do you know.
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Yes I thinned it with white spirit but I'm not sure what % I used. it's about 10 years ago now.
The paint itself is quite thick with a high solid content so I thinned it a little at a time until it went through the gun correctly.
Leave each coat to dry for a while. It doesn't dry as quickly as cellulose.
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If you have trouble masking off small items you can get 'liquid mask' from art shops and model shops. It's latex and paints on. When it's dry it forms a rubber barrier over the part you're protecting. Model shops also sell 'low-tack' masking tape in various sizes. The mask can be suspect with some acrylic paints and can 'colour' plastics but I doubt that it'll harm an engine. When dry, you simply rub it off with your fingers.