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Messages - bytio
1
« on: October 30, 2018, 06:36:13 PM »
It was stove enamelled so not paint
2
« on: October 28, 2018, 12:27:05 AM »
By far the best finish and one totally solvent resistant is stove enamel satin black Here is my F2 
3
« on: July 24, 2017, 08:03:24 PM »
That does not have the original front mudguard on it
4
« on: March 28, 2017, 08:15:45 AM »
0.0008-.0010 anything more then it will burn oil (that's what he recommends for the 750 and worked perfectly for me. I don't know the 350
5
« on: March 27, 2017, 07:57:16 PM »
This company does pistons and rings up to +4mm http://www.scheuerlein-motorentechnik.de/motorrad/Honda/700-799-ccm-h7/cb750four-modelle/cb750f1/Excellent quality, I used them on my F2, (they have them for Ks and F1s as well) I had the same oil burning problems went through 2 over size steps new guides etc, still burning, the cause eventuall found the machine shop boring he Barrells made the clearances too big, I did lots of research and consulted Hondaman (and his book) I insisted on this clearance, the shop said it would seize, and wrote a disclaimer. I got the clearance I needed, the bike ran perfectly, and never used as to of oil, oh and it didn't seize.!1
6
« on: February 26, 2017, 09:25:45 PM »
Submerge pump in oil turn it over an lift the oil stopper/leak valve (very thin screw driver) turn the pump and immediately you will see the air bubble gulp out, release the valve you will instantly feel the extra resistance, I have done this many times and learned it's the only way to get the oil pressure up quickly
7
« on: August 21, 2016, 11:57:18 PM »
I see it had CB 550 clocks on it, it's a shame he didn't restore the original clocks.
8
« on: August 15, 2016, 07:23:27 PM »
Ensure the 3 o rings are new, 2 large outer ones seen in the pic, plus the smaller one that the rotor shaft goes through ( a bit of a pig to get out) if these are not in good order oil will escape from pump and loose oil pressure
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9
« on: July 21, 2016, 09:04:44 PM »
Original satin black, if you can the very best and accurate finish totally oil and fuel resistant is stove enamel, here was F2 engine when completed 
10
« on: June 21, 2016, 08:50:33 AM »
You need to submerge the oil pump in oil and turn it until resistance is felt and air bibles stop coming out. Fit pump fill oil tank and turn engine over with starter button, oil pressure light will go out in about 30 seconds
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11
« on: March 16, 2016, 10:47:23 PM »
It is slightly more of a wedge on. The F2 as the angle of the valves is more than others to enable the larger valves to go in combustion chamber. The F2 will tend to "dome" the top of the valve more than others as the tappet screw will dig its way down the valve.as long as the oil is changed regularly and the tappets are regularly checked. Better still get bronze guides and APE stainless valves,
12
« on: March 10, 2016, 10:17:05 PM »
Drew, it was great to see it go to a good home, I still miss it, and of course happy to help if you need any info.
13
« on: January 30, 2016, 10:36:15 PM »
The front mudguard is also not original
14
« on: November 15, 2015, 12:24:25 PM »
All 4 studs same the nuts were just there when I tightened down the studs
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15
« on: November 14, 2015, 11:24:50 PM »
These are the ones I mean
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