This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Pedro26
1
« on: May 10, 2023, 07:20:50 PM »
Wow, that bike is mint! The diagram is helpful in showing where the speedo and tacho cables route, many thanks.
On the stay at the rear there is, on mine now, was, an inbuilt clip, with a plasticised surface. On my bike it had been bent to clip the front brake flexible pipe.
When I took it off again to rub it down ready for re-painting, I saw that the clip had parted company next to where it joins the rest of it spot welded to the main body of the stay. A little gutted to say the least, I thought I’d try brazing it back on using a Mapp torch. I’ve ordered the consumables and flux. Will practice first before attempting this.
2
« on: May 10, 2023, 01:39:12 PM »
Err,
Schoolboy error, I whipped off the gauges, the cables, the ignition and the headlight, then the headlight stay and moved stuff around, and out of the way, to get to the fork’s chrome etc. etc. but I didn’t photograph the routing for re-assembly. Would it be possible for someone to post a photo of exactly which way these cables route through the stay?
3
« on: May 07, 2023, 03:15:32 PM »
I got these from Homebase. They’re not solid rubber, but that is an advantage. 2nd attempt was successful I cut off the lower part just to where the main hole ‘bottoms’, without cutting into the rubber for the larger hole’s base, then pared away around the sides until the top disc was sufficiently thin, which is just a tad below the actual original shoulder. Also if you leave too much of the door stop’s strengthening walls, it works against you, even though the rods fit the hole as if it was made for this, (no drilling required) and they fit into the fork bracket hole. Too much rubber round the lower periphery on the newly fashioned grommet, and you struggle to line up the top holes of the stays, where the speedo/tachometers bracket mounts with those threaded pins.
Anyway, result. First result is in the photo, successful one is on the bike, shorter in overall length/depth than the one shown.
4
« on: May 06, 2023, 09:54:07 AM »
On these systems can you re-use the original castellated clamps at the cylinder head?
Just that that would be a nod to the original system.
5
« on: May 02, 2023, 07:43:32 PM »
A YouTuber spanner rash fitted a delkevic 4 into 1 system to a K series 750, but I expect it will look quite different to the original. My bike has a megaphone fitted and has a crude wire holding the silencer baffle in place, it sounds business, but it was always on the ‘to replace’ list. However I always balked at the £650 to £750 price tag for places that did a compatible exhaust delivered to a UK address.
6
« on: May 02, 2023, 07:28:50 PM »
That’s a good idea ! Nice one, just need to get a new batch of Stanley knife blades, less chance of accidents. Doing the inner hole might be tricky, but I could do that first, might be able to drill it. Then paring it down to fit.
7
« on: May 02, 2023, 08:41:35 AM »
As shown in the attachment these are the dimensions of this inverted ‘top hat’ grommet.
The diameter of the ‘brim’ of the top hat shaped grommet is approx. 21.8mm
The outer diameter where it slides into the hole in the fork bracket is approx. 16.1mm.
The length of the bit that slides into the hole in the fork is approx. 13.6mm.
The thickness of the brim of the grommet is about 3.1-3.2mm.
The internal diameter of the hole in the grommet is approx. 10.4 mm
Overall length/height of the grommet is approx. 16.1 mm
The diameter of the headlight stay rod, (actually a tube), is approx. 10.2-10.5 mm
The internal diameter of the hole in the bracket on the forks that the grommet fits into is approx. 16.2mm.
The height of the fork bracket is 20.68mm.
8
« on: May 01, 2023, 10:28:10 PM »
I’ll measure the hole’s, ID, in the fork bracket, and the dimensions of the one that’s still in the forks tomorrow and I’ll post it here.
10
« on: May 01, 2023, 12:02:40 PM »
Hi,
Just dismantled the front end lights etc and one of the rubber grommets where the head light stay locates into the bracket on the front forks is missing. The actual grommet is like an upside down top hat shape, which locates in the hole in the fork bracket. Previous USA owner had just wrapped a load of black insulation tape round the end of the rod on the bed light stay that locates in the hole. I’ve tried all the usual part places that deal in classic Honda spares, but it’s a discontinued, unavailable part. Is there another, available, rubber grommet that might be re-purposable for this? Off an Honda or indeed any bike?
Thanks
11
« on: April 16, 2023, 08:02:57 AM »
I’ve lost the little orange indicator glass, as shown in the attached photo. I had saved it, (I’ve still got the thin metal cover plate safe), but it went walkabout, must have been during house move back in 2008, see photo. In hindsight I should have just glued them both back in place, and been done with it.
I can get a complete replica version of the box, but is there anywhere I can get just that little orange lens?
12
« on: April 15, 2023, 09:53:14 AM »
Who supplies new gauge faces? I’m open to considering all options, short of the purchase of brand new genuine gauges.
13
« on: April 15, 2023, 07:32:55 AM »
Thanks for the link. My trip knob is on the side at around 15-20 mph position.
14
« on: April 14, 2023, 10:33:19 PM »
Both function well. Well that is back in 2001, the last time the bike was rode.
15
« on: April 14, 2023, 10:30:40 PM »
Current tachometer
|
Show Posts