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Other Bikes / Re: Francis. The 1987 CB125 TDE
« on: March 26, 2017, 12:16:43 AM »
Ok. Now I'll try and flesh-out the post I made the other night....
So the forks are clearly bent on the bike but Hannah (previous owner, looks terrible referring to her as 'she' in every other line ) bought a good used pair a while ago and these were included in the bundle I trailered away. Still to get the keys and V5 actually
Even tho the 'new' forks are pretty good they do have rust specks on the stanchions so should really be sent away for hard-chroming. This costs around £200, once you've factored-in P&P both ways. Now the first thing I really want to do here is get the machine up & running so putting on straight forks is a good starting-point but that means they need to come back off again later if they are to be re-chromed. I could perhaps send the original stanchions away to be done but I'm not sure if they can be straightened by the company doing the chroming, or if they can even be straightened at all. However a glimpse at John Webley's RD125 thread showed something about forks getting straightened so I'll need to have a better look at that.
What ever the case I decided to remove and strip-down the originals....
This was pretty straightforward compared to when I tackled the forks on my 1976 RD250C. Main difference is that although the arrangement for securing the damper to the fork-bottom looks the same from outside it's not.
Both have a recessed Allen-headed (6mm) screw under the leg. On the RD250 when you turn this the damper assy spins round inside the leg so you need to knock-up a tool to hold the invisible part still. On the CB I just used the long leg of an Allen key as I didn't have a long bit for my ratchet. The screw is pretty tight so I put the key in vice and turned the leg.
Moving back up the leg you can prise out the rubber 'cover' that sits in the alloy outer- tube. I was surprised to find wadding under this.
Anyway once the damper assy is no longer fixed to the fork tube you can pull it out and then tackle the actual fork seal.
There are all sorts of views on this online. One guy on YouTube actually jacked the seal out by filling the leg with oil and leaving the stanchion in. He nearly wrecked his shed in the process but it's an entertaining video.
Some say using the stanchion like a slide-hammer will pull the seal out but I don't see how this would work on the CB as the stanchion and damper just pull out together.
To get the damper out the stanchion you remove the top-cap from the stanchion revealing the spring and once that's out the way the damper will slide out too but you need to take off the little alloy piece at bottom. This will fall off anyway unless you put the screw back in for safe-keeping.
So the forks are clearly bent on the bike but Hannah (previous owner, looks terrible referring to her as 'she' in every other line ) bought a good used pair a while ago and these were included in the bundle I trailered away. Still to get the keys and V5 actually
Even tho the 'new' forks are pretty good they do have rust specks on the stanchions so should really be sent away for hard-chroming. This costs around £200, once you've factored-in P&P both ways. Now the first thing I really want to do here is get the machine up & running so putting on straight forks is a good starting-point but that means they need to come back off again later if they are to be re-chromed. I could perhaps send the original stanchions away to be done but I'm not sure if they can be straightened by the company doing the chroming, or if they can even be straightened at all. However a glimpse at John Webley's RD125 thread showed something about forks getting straightened so I'll need to have a better look at that.
What ever the case I decided to remove and strip-down the originals....
This was pretty straightforward compared to when I tackled the forks on my 1976 RD250C. Main difference is that although the arrangement for securing the damper to the fork-bottom looks the same from outside it's not.
Both have a recessed Allen-headed (6mm) screw under the leg. On the RD250 when you turn this the damper assy spins round inside the leg so you need to knock-up a tool to hold the invisible part still. On the CB I just used the long leg of an Allen key as I didn't have a long bit for my ratchet. The screw is pretty tight so I put the key in vice and turned the leg.
Moving back up the leg you can prise out the rubber 'cover' that sits in the alloy outer- tube. I was surprised to find wadding under this.
Anyway once the damper assy is no longer fixed to the fork tube you can pull it out and then tackle the actual fork seal.
There are all sorts of views on this online. One guy on YouTube actually jacked the seal out by filling the leg with oil and leaving the stanchion in. He nearly wrecked his shed in the process but it's an entertaining video.
Some say using the stanchion like a slide-hammer will pull the seal out but I don't see how this would work on the CB as the stanchion and damper just pull out together.
To get the damper out the stanchion you remove the top-cap from the stanchion revealing the spring and once that's out the way the damper will slide out too but you need to take off the little alloy piece at bottom. This will fall off anyway unless you put the screw back in for safe-keeping.