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Messages - zebedee85
31
« on: August 26, 2017, 06:46:58 PM »
Well with all your help and the Messrs Haynes I have removed the forks and the old seals. It felt a bit easy to get all the bits off, I know it was maintained by a mechanic (allegedly) but it hasn't done more than 1500 miles since 2007. Maybe it was well stored, and well maintained, who knows.
Anyway - old fork oil was disgusting, and the seal area of the problematic fork leg was gouged with screwdriver marks. It'll be a case of living with this if it weeps again. the butt of a 17mm spanner had just about enough length and strength to lever the old seals out, which I used to tap down the new ones with a mallet.
I have refilled them, but they are not on the bike yet, that's Monday's job. So far, so good.
32
« on: August 24, 2017, 12:18:37 PM »
Got it - broom handles are popular. I don't have an impact gun, just the old fashioned one which requires physical violence. I'm sure I'll understand when the fork is apart but do I take that the broom handle goes down the stanchion?
33
« on: August 23, 2017, 10:37:48 AM »
ok I'll have a go and report back
34
« on: August 23, 2017, 10:04:26 AM »
Good advice, thanks. Can I not remove the old seal by removing the circlip and working the lower leg up and down in situ until it pops out? Then I can remove the entire assembly from the yoke, whip the old seal off from the top and slide the new one down the stanchion on and tap into place using a punch and the old seal? Then I can replace the circlip and put the whole leg back into the yoke?
This would only work the bottom of the stanchion can come up far enough to push the old seal out?
35
« on: August 23, 2017, 09:08:32 AM »
Hi folks - seeing some conflicting information on this question. I need to change fork seals on my CB750F1. I am expecting to drain the forks, removal wheel and accoutrements, mudguard, spring etc. Then dust cap and circlip, then work the lower fork leg off the stanchion. one at a time of course with a jack under the front of the engine.
My question is, do I need to loosen or even remove the bolt which holds the damper in the lower fork leg (the bolt that goes direct up into the lower fork leg)? I don't really see how loosening it affects the lower fork leg's ability to be removed, yet I see some disassembly videos recommend this.
any thoughts?
36
« on: August 21, 2017, 09:56:00 PM »
Hah bike-for-house a common ailment then. (and drums and synths it seems)
In my case I needed a deposit for a tenancy which is even more pathetic. It left me with enough afterwards to try a modern 'serious bike' so I bought an R1100S - it was very fast and very top heavy what with the generator sat on top of the engine, fuel tank after that, and I am hardly built for rugby, nor basketball. That was sold to actually buy a house and I wasn't sorry to see it go!
Had a whizz round on the CB750F1 this evening down to Oxford n back. The throttle despite quite a bit of cleaning of the cables and mechanism (smooth operation now) seems very stiff. Hand achingly so, it is hard to set the revs at low speed.
37
« on: August 21, 2017, 02:45:13 PM »
Grandmothers and sucking eggs aside, I recommend the long screwdriver as stethoscope trick for nasty engine noises.
38
« on: August 21, 2017, 12:43:23 PM »
Cheers Mike, nice to have the encouragement.
39
« on: August 21, 2017, 10:02:13 AM »
Cheers! Sorry Trigger, no spare. If ever I was to crash on the 550 I would use my body to project the exhaust, I figure spare parts for me are more readily available and cheaper.
40
« on: August 21, 2017, 09:15:04 AM »
Hi folks,
Great to see a UK SOHC4 forum. I've used this and the US one to get me out of so many tight spots along the way of maintaining these great machines that I felt I ought to stop lurking and join in.
Bit of history - After I had passed my CBT I was looking at various bikes as you do, and my other half suggested I check out some older ones since I liked 'retro stuff'. She probably didn't realise the impact of that throwaway statement.
I bought a knackered CB125J from ebay as spares or repairs, intending to do up my first bike on a budget. Nothing worked. The forks were pitted, the clutch seized, the front brake seized, the exhaust rotten, the spark plug seized in the engine, the piston had rusted solid in the barrel, the carbs gummed up, the electrics were shot. The only plus point was that my mate and I managed to get it into his Volvo estate to drive it back from Luton.
Fast forward, that project taught me a lot about patience and what not to do. Eventually I got it working for a short period, but it didn't last long and the piston seized again, and broke the con rod sending it punching through the front of the crank case. That was a difficult push home. I got rid of it and passed my test.
My first proper bike was a CB400-four which I loved. The design was great and there just isn't anything modern which has such great looks, holds its value and is so mechanically tangible in the way that all the features operate.
I had to get rid of it to put a deposit down on a house, but since then I've owned various machines. I had an imported Cb550K US spec for a while which wasn't quite my bag. I had a few modern bikes in between before settling on the current set up:
CB550F which I have just finished making oil tight. Top end is rebuilt (with new later rocker cover to fix the noise from worn shafts) and I'm about to embark on a rear shock adventure trying to cure the excessively harsh ride from the replicas.
I have also just picked up a CB750F1 which is the only affordable way to see what the fuss is about in terms of the original engine. I quite like it, it sounds, goes and feels like a one ton bag of bees. Pics of this one to follow. The CB550F1 and I got lucky with the light last year. So I've attached a pic (I hope).
If I can't provide technical tips being only a hapless amateur on here, I hope to at least provide moral support.
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