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Messages - K2-K6

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1
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 27, 2024, 03:13:29 PM »
I can speak front experience that the good alloy wheel cleaners like Wonder Wheels that work great also corrode wheels. Merc will not cover alloy wheels under warranty that have had such cleaners used on them. The original W124 alloy wheels were Anodised for the first few years of production before they used paint & lacquer like most others

My experience too Ted, with that brand (I've dome stock  :) ) containing Hydrochloric Acid in my sample.  You can smell it on bare aluminium based alloy, like a battery charging.

Think SteveW has sensibly included a time of immersion in anecdotal usage, which I think is wise precaution.

It is one of the only solution I've tried that removed brake dust and specifically contaminated with iron from disc brake rotor "outwash" on car alloys that haven't been kept clean.

2
CB350/400 / Re: My 1975 CB400F restoration project
« on: March 27, 2024, 02:58:01 PM »
Nice work to get it back on track.

As many of the threads indicate on this topic, these carb are deadly accurate for jetting, with such importance in really, really clean installation air passageways.

Assuming no mods to motor and intake, then they carburate with great accuracy.

Another consideration if needed for minor adjustments, the size of the idle jet and subsequently the ultimate airscrew setting cover a very significant range of response and quite high up into the rev range on anything much below 3/4 throttle opening.

As with this original jet specification fitted by PO, a larger main jet is often fitted which completely stuffs the overall running scheme.

As you find though, a real delight to ride when optimum setup is done.  A lovely small,capacity four indeed.

3
Misc / Open / Re: How do you decide it's time to buy a new bike
« on: March 27, 2024, 08:12:20 AM »
On the Guzsi Mondello axis, I'd encourage a test ride of Ducati 821 Monster if available ..... a very different bike but along the same vein in being very different.

If youve not ridden similar, they've a very different character engine wise to many others, they just feel like much les friction in engine response, really eager torque, plus high rev hit if you want it, all in one engine. Very well balanced too with narrow bicycle like feeling to weight distribution.

Go on, you know you need another one  ;D

4
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 27, 2024, 07:59:48 AM »
As general contribution to topic, the "Stabil" fuel stabilizer type products we looked at recently may also offer a cleaning ability when used as concentrate on these components.

They target the fuel gumming components in whole system and could offer decent cleaning of the individual components.

A thought on clock cleaning fluid, worth being careful with the non brass carburettor materials as the Ammonium Hydroxide driving that Ph number may not be "friendly" towards this material type.

5
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 27, 2024, 07:48:14 AM »
I use clock cleaning fluid on the brassware. I pour some into a jar (you have to dilute it) and leave the brassware to soak for a couple of hours. Once  rinsed I put them into the ultrasonic bath with carb cleaning fluid from Allendale.
I got the tip for clock cleaning fluid from the Repair Shop on TV and after watching an Allan Millyard video where he used it on some Z1 carbs.

Interesting lateral thinking there Dave, seems appropriate to the materials in the jets themselves.

List of ingredients here

 3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Component CAS Number Percentage
WATER 7732-18-5 10 - 25
ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL 67-63-0 20 - 25
OLEIC ACID 112-80-1 5 - 10
PINE OIL 8002-09-3 5 - 10
AMMONIUM HYDROXIDE 1336-21-6 30 – 40
The exact concentration of composition has been withheld as a trade secret


Ph listed as 11.5 on msds sheet, for the concentrate.

Camera technical often use "lighter fluid" for old and gummy parts, quite effective too.

The steam suggestion comes from analytical chemical laboratory in which the glass vessels are routinely steamed to remove residue, sometimes "tarring" that's similar to that whichbwe get in carbs etc.

A number of different solutions to try.

6
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 26, 2024, 07:36:55 PM »
If you've a wallpaper stripper or similar, then a steam nozzle can often be an easy way to get gluey carb parts apart.

Looks like someone has already been in there before you with that slide damage, not too bad in reality and likely to clean up with "light" dremmel fettle or by hand with emmery cloth.

7
CB500/550 / Re: Carb Cleaning Tips?
« on: March 26, 2024, 09:33:18 AM »
Welcome to the forum.

The usual trip up on most gummed carbs like these is the primary circuit and it's jets. Nothing but absolute clean will keep you from chasing your tail.

Definitely keep the brass if serviceable, all the rest is just routine with enhanced attention to detail in getting to where you want.

Plenty of support here for any questions.

Sounds like a good project.

8
Misc / Open / Re: Are all Schraeder valves the same?
« on: March 25, 2024, 07:24:10 PM »
IIRC some cycle tyres have higher tyres pressures than cars.

Mr Google says 50-70 psi on road bikes some even higher!

Most of the high pressure cycle are "Presta" type valves, with screw collar to lock them closed, can be up to 120 psi.  I prefer the Schrader type for ease of compatability during inflation,  but some rims are Presta only, so forced choice.

Schrader will have no problem up even around 60 psi though, no difference to car type in manufacture as far as I know, so completely interchangeable in reality.

Thought it's centrifugal as John's  post related.  Release of air at very high speed the risk, but way out of general road bike usage range. Metal caps with rubber disc inside to positively close off a contingency.

9
Misc / Open / Re: Advice sought, modernish tourer needed
« on: March 25, 2024, 07:13:15 PM »
I guess there's many questions, price, age, faired or un, capacity, air or water-cooled etc.

Something of similar ilk to 500 could be from Honda hornet 600 range ... likewise Yamaha Fazer 600, Suzuki Bandit 600, plenty out there at variable cost with pretty decent power vs the 500 Four, so not slacking in pace and pull for two up touring.

Bikes like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256395213659 with a touring orientated spec possibly.

I like the Triumph you've mentioned, but possibly more fickle and potentially less supported through general dealerships than Japanese manufacturers while out and about.

Fairing top half around bars etc are very effective too for relaxed "wind calming" riding, more than the sum of their parts.

10
If you are thinking Ted of fully electric, there's some scope there although evaluation for your own preference and situation would be needed.

I grew up in 50s origin house, originally specified with solid fuel boiler in kitchen for hot water only, open fireplace in lounge and no other heating. Frost inside windows on North side in winter with lovely patterns too  :) that was my sister's bedroom  ;D

Very early 70s removed boiler and installed night storage heating, located off gas mains and so no option there to use anything else, hence choice.

Some consideration as they are not immediately responsive like a wet system,  with separate meter for variable tariff a part of the "modernisation" being promoted then .... the all electric age a ?  :)

Anyway, remember family conversation of parents and uncles etc as some had gas, baxi etc and memorable for our system having effectively, absolutely NIL maintenance and cost, attendant down time etc. Had large tank in airing cupboard, located centre of house with very low heat loss, heated with emersion also on night tariff, but with supplementary switching to demand IF ever needed to add heat during day for odd eventuality.
Remember the immersion being replaced a couple of times over about a 30 year time period, I eventuality swapped to new tank in early 2000s for my parents, stripped out old galv pipes for hot and  old distribution to Bath and kitchen.

You can get water electrical solutions for wet heating now https://www.tradeplumbing.co.uk/electric-boiler-heating-6kw-20400-btu-potterton-gold-94022004.html perhaps a consideration for your circumstances.

Electricity tariff available seems far more adaptive now with systems and suppliers facilitating E car charge through off peak demand smoothing giving advantages in energy cost.
Not as cheap as gas, but offset against gas maintenance, insurance and reliability etc, there's some potential balance to be had.

11
CB350/400 / Re: Arcing points
« on: March 24, 2024, 08:10:41 AM »
In THEORY it should not matter where on the points lt lead they are fitted and if you fitted an extra in parallel the total capacitance increases so should be better, i tried it on the 500 i sold Ted with 2 rover v8 ones at the coils and the bike did not like it so i disconnected them but as Ted noticed it was too much of a fiddle to remove them!

Interesting practical test Bryan. My hypothesis on this is that the performance of the condenser in these system is related to the characteristic fuel burn time, which has largely stayed the same in petrol (refining, octane rating, combustion conditions etc) such that a condenser within this type of triggered HT delivered system needs to have that in defined range to positively benefit combustion.

There's quite a lot of research available (some really good from GM in R&D of Northstar V8) that discuss in this area. Also interesting is Honda CVCC combustion process from their 70s car engine program, itself a precursor to current F1 pre-chamber combustion of extremely lean mixture burning.

12
Yes, to your question, I'm saying tge same thing but as I understand it  :)

Soooo, the supply you already have going to your horn relay now, can be moved over to come from this new fuse board to that relay.

13
Project Board / Re: My 750F2 project.
« on: March 23, 2024, 08:16:00 PM »
Good find, I've always liked the F2 as well.

Never owned one, but look after a friend's that he's owned from new.

Guess the cost it less than the original models now ?  They are an important end of line from the original "superbike" four cylinder engine architecture too.

Quite a few friends owned and ran them when new.

14
Sorry - should have made myself clearer.....

Its really all about the Horn....all the other stuff im fine with!

Currently ive got a Denali Soundbomb but, it requires a high current draw.... so, theres a Relay that is inbetween it and the horn...

The relay has 4 pins...2 for power and 2 coming from the original loom (they went to the original horn)

So how would those 4 pins used be connected to the new fuse box?

Aah, in that case then, if you want it through this unit you just need to route the power side FROM one of these supply through the relay you already use (leaving the two original switch wires to toggle that auxiliary relay)  it would then work as it does now with a fuse and relay to take load, with the switch just a light signal.

15
Cursory look (I'll have to fully read it later to check more)

Supply from bike into the IN route obviously, which the OUTS paired in earth one side of board opposite the positive side, six channels in all.

Optimate charge cable IN wouldn't be routed through this board,  as far as I can see.  Supply and protection for that is inntge Optimate unit and going direct into battery on vehicle.

The central section of fuses, control by fuse placement, as to whether each circuit it static feed with ignition on OR with the fuse flipped from one gang to the other will provide a switched line.  Switching is on this board in that case, it looks like. This should take place ofca relay by solid state switching on this board ..... is there a remote control for this board ?   Whichbwouod give you direct "relayed" feed to item in that case.


I'll get to read it through later to correct what I've put there, perhaps there's personal experience on here to help too.

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