Post by: burchy75 on October 26, 2017, 10:18:03 PM
The timing of this decision is a little off as I was made redundant in May but you’ve got to start a project at some point so despite funds being a little lacking, my enthusiasm isn’t.
The plan was to take my K0 engine here, split the cases and pour the innards (if they were in decent nick) into my K1 cases to match the K1 frame I have here.
I don’t have the CR tank and goodies as of yet but fingered a job would be needed for these outlays. In the meantime I was hoping to build an engine and frame that I can then bling up at a later date.
So, a few weeks ago I bought an engine stand (cheers Julie) and got to work on what might be a lengthy, expensive but hopefully enjoyable first build
This is what I’ve got to start with………wish me luck!!!
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Nurse Julie on October 26, 2017, 10:29:25 PM
Post by: burchy75 on October 26, 2017, 10:30:14 PM
[attachimg=1]
to hopefully help me get to something like this
[attachimg=2]
Post by: burchy75 on October 26, 2017, 10:31:44 PM
Post by: Trigger on October 26, 2017, 10:37:10 PM
Post by: burchy75 on October 26, 2017, 10:47:36 PM
While I've got you actually you mentioned in a post I was reading the other day about prepping cases for paint. As mine are split at the moment, both the K0 and K1, I wanted to possibly get them sent off at some point to have them prepped. I was thinking initially that all they would need is a good clean and then possibly bead or soda blasted but your post went into a load of detail about acid dips and the like?
Post by: burchy75 on October 26, 2017, 11:03:52 PM
I got myself a K3 top yoke and set about it with drill, angle grinder and grinding wheel. The plan is to turn it into a CR top yoke replica to take either my K1 forks or the later K4 forks I have here. It all depends on the ease of doing the dual brakes on the two different fork lowers.
[attachimg=1]
As a side project I took to modelling a mirror of the K1 caliper arm and bracket. I want to see if I can get a mould to then try and get a metal casting done. It reminded me of pottery class at school but took a while trying to get everything lined up. It’s a bit stone age compared to the computer design and 3d printing technologies available but it produced a mould that I’m going to play around with. It's gonna need a fair bit of machining so may come to nothing but it’s a bit of fun :)
As for the engine itself I set about splitting the cases so removed the gear shift bearing holder and the all the little fiddly bits.
[attachimg=2]
Luckily none of the pan screws fouled and all came out with no drama
[attachimg=3]
Having never split a case before I made the school boy error of missing a bolt and swearing a bit trying to pry the cases apart. Luckily I fingered out I'd been an idiot before doing any damage and the cases came apart relatively easily once the last bolt had been found and undone.
Post by: MarkCR750 on October 27, 2017, 07:25:52 AM
Post by: Trigger on October 27, 2017, 07:40:50 AM
Sounds easy Trigger
While I've got you actually you mentioned in a post I was reading the other day about prepping cases for paint. As mine are split at the moment, both the K0 and K1, I wanted to possibly get them sent off at some point to have them prepped. I was thinking initially that all they would need is a good clean and then possibly bead or soda blasted but your post went into a load of detail about acid dips and the like?
For me the only way to get the cases clean is a soak in a tank of chemicals and then soda blast to take off any remaining lose flakes of paint. Is there a company local to you that specialises in stripping and cleaning alloy ?
Post by: AshimotoK0 on October 27, 2017, 08:50:56 AM
Also please see PM I sent earlier today ;)
Post by: burchy75 on October 27, 2017, 09:54:57 AM
Good luck with the project, if you have no luck with the top yoke I have a cast one that just needs one face machining.
Cheers Mark (any pics?)
Post by: burchy75 on October 27, 2017, 09:57:19 AM
Hi Craig...see Richard ....RGP750 on here regarding casting of alloy.
Also please see PM I sent earlier today ;)
Cheers Ash, top bloke
I'll drop Richard a PM as well about it. I have to admit I've been toying with having a blast at my own DIY metal casting so would be good to pick someone's brain
Post by: MarkCR750 on October 27, 2017, 08:43:45 PM
Good luck with the project, if you have no luck with the top yoke I have a cast one that just needs one face machining.
Cheers Mark (any pics?)
I’ll see if I can find it tomorrow and post a pic on here.
Post by: philward on October 27, 2017, 09:55:21 PM
Any help - let me know - loads of other CR threads on the forum too
Post by: burchy75 on October 27, 2017, 11:24:52 PM
With the cases now split I managed to have a look at the pistons, rods and crankshaft itself. They all seem to be in decent nick although the number 1 rod seemed to have a fair bit of side to side play. I have no idea if this is in tolerance but as I’m going to have to get the oil clearances checked for new bearings I’ll soon work all that out. As I’m marrying the K0 internals to the K1 cases I’m probably looking at all new bearings anyway. The main bearings were all green in the K0 and looked in decent condition but I have no idea if they can be used again or transferred over to a new set of cases – I’m assuming they can’t? The transmission looked to also be in good nick as well so feeling optimistic that the engine is a good un.
[attachimg=1]
While I had the crankshaft out I made notes of all the etched numbers for working out which bearings I'm going to need.
I’ve also had a blast at the carbs today and I have to say I’m pleased with how they have turned out having been attacked with degreaser and a toothbrush. I should really get them soda blasted or bead blasted or something but it’s good getting your hands dirty and cleaning something up yourself, especially something that was as cruddy as these carbs.
[attachimg=2]
I wouldn’t eat my dinner off them just yet but it’s a start
[attachimg=3]
Post by: Bryanj on October 28, 2017, 12:16:28 AM
Post by: Trigger on October 28, 2017, 08:29:27 AM
Post by: burchy75 on October 29, 2017, 09:39:38 AM
So the numbers that came back are BBBAA from the K1 cases, J ACCAA P L4444 from the KO crank itself. The rods themselves were all 2F.
[attachimg=1]
Now from the table in the book I have here I’m looking at all green bearings for the rods themselves – if they are all in spec. The original green bearings themselves all looked in good nick when I split the cases so may be able to reuse possibly once I've checked clearances
Trying to work out the rest it looks like I’m going to need 10 x green (possibly only 2 if I can reuse the original rod bearings), 4 x brown and 4 x yellow but I’m going to go over my 5 min calculations to make sure it’s all correct before attacking the thing with Plastiguage. With the play in rod 1 I think this might need a different bearing itself but the plastiguage will help I guess
I’m kind of thinking of getting one set of green, brown and yellow bearings for now so I have test each point and have a new size bearing if one or more are slightly out of one specific size, if that makes sense. I can then double check everything before ordering my final bearings.
Post by: Trigger on October 29, 2017, 11:49:12 AM
Post by: burchy75 on October 29, 2017, 04:35:33 PM
As for the bearings themselves I may end up just going with new bearings all round just to be on the safe side.
Post by: Trigger on October 29, 2017, 05:21:36 PM
Post by: burchy75 on October 29, 2017, 07:08:51 PM
As for the head and barrels, have absolutely no idea what year they are from, is there any way of finding out?
Post by: Trigger on October 29, 2017, 07:15:22 PM
Post by: burchy75 on October 29, 2017, 08:04:49 PM
Post by: Trigger on October 29, 2017, 10:15:05 PM
Post by: MarkCR750 on October 31, 2017, 05:53:08 PM
Good luck with the project, if you have no luck with the top yoke I have a cast one that just needs one face machining.
I’m struggling to upload the photos, used to be able to email to myself then save back to my phone to get the file small enough for the forum but now it’s saying it’s the wrong file type 🙄, pm me your email address and I’ll send the photos 👍
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on October 31, 2017, 07:16:17 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: burchy75 on November 02, 2017, 09:08:27 AM
Sounds good, what type of oil jet is in the head ? This will tell you if the head is a good match for the barrels. Am i working too fast for you ;D
It looks like I have 4 of the early style heads and two early barrels in the box of bits that I bought, this includes the barrels and head that came off the KO engine itself. Hopefully these should be ok to go straight on the K1 cases I have here. It turns out I also have 2 later style heads as well, which I may end up using on the 76/77 engine I have here (at a later date). The spare engine cases have an engine number of CB750E 2547990, which I believe is an 1976 F2 engine number and not a 76 K as I'd originally thought - can anyone else confirm this?
Post by: BigAl (Alan) on November 02, 2017, 01:07:15 PM
Post by: burchy75 on November 03, 2017, 12:05:22 PM
Now separate to this I'd heard about JIS head screwdrivers and their advantages over Philips heads with old Japanese bikes and having rounded a few of the pan screws in the past I thought I'd have a blast at grinding down a standard Philips to see if it made any difference in getting the screws out.
[attachimg=1]
Wow, is all I can say. 30 seconds on the grinder to take the tip off and angle the 4 edges a little and all 8 screws came out without any drama at all, even the two that were caked in rust or something equally as nasty. I'm probably preaching to the converted on here as many of you have no doubt already done this but having cursed (a lot) when I've rounded screws in the past this felt like a nice easy win :)
[attachimg=2]
I want to get the carbs rebuild if possible and then turn my attention to the frame that is currently dangling from the garage ceiling. I'd like to bolt up some of the rear end and get the forks on, more to see the stance of the bike than anything else as I've only ever seen it in boxes and getting something that resembles a bike, even in these early build stages, will hopefully put a smile on my face and spur me on.
Post by: MarkCR750 on November 03, 2017, 07:13:58 PM
What sort of photo files are you trying to upload? I can soon add another variant to the “allowed” list.
It ends .jpeg Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on November 04, 2017, 09:39:02 AM
< Anorak warning >
Joint Photographic Experts Group designed this 25 years ago. You can compress a digital image by a factor of 10 with little discernible loss of quality.
The file extension is normally .jpg but I see that .jpeg is used at times. I will add it to the list - can’t do it at the moment as I’m using my phone
Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: MarkCR750 on November 04, 2017, 12:45:09 PM
That’s odd.
< Anorak warning >
Joint Photographic Experts Group designed this 25 years ago. You can compress a digital image by a factor of 10 with little discernible loss of quality.
The file extension is normally .jpg but I see that .jpeg is used at times. I will add it to the list - can’t do it at the moment as I’m using my phone
Steve
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks Steve, I don’t know why it’s suddenly become a problem, I’ve sent photos to my email and back to my phone to reduce the file size many times before and they have always uploaded to the forum no problem, maybe an update on my phone or email has altered things?.
Post by: yozzer74 on November 04, 2017, 04:05:57 PM
Post by: MarkCR750 on November 04, 2017, 04:43:03 PM
Post by: burchy75 on November 10, 2017, 12:59:32 PM
[attachimg=1]
Some supplies arrived as well :)
[attachimg=2]
[attachimg=3]
Post by: captaink on November 17, 2017, 06:35:42 AM
Hide everything under the bed, the wife wont ever know ;)
" Get your priorities right man "
Post by: Rozabikes Tim on November 17, 2017, 07:44:31 AM
Tip for keeping the garage clean and tidy.Wrong mine stashes her "oh I've had them ages" shoes there! ::)
Hide everything under the bed, the wife wont ever know ;)
" Get your priorities right man "
Post by: burchy75 on January 18, 2018, 07:44:30 PM
I’ve started to fit the various bushes to the swing arm as well as get the forks rebuilt and top yoke ground and welded up. I’ve also been working on the transmission cover. Little bits I know but slowly ticking off jobs
Next thing to do is tackle the frame delugging :-)
Post by: Nurse Julie on January 18, 2018, 07:59:57 PM
Post by: BenLangton on January 26, 2018, 08:20:30 PM
Post by: burchy75 on January 30, 2018, 01:40:34 PM
Going
[attachimg=1]
Pretty much gone
[attachimg=2]
Just need to drill out the holes, weld them up and then level out and most probably get it powder coated black
On a side note I have a rhino horn yoke that I'm not going to need if anyone is interested? I'll whack some pics up in the for sale section later today.
Also been working on rebuilding the set of K1 forks I have here. The fork lowers are coming up nice after a bit of work - still not finished but getting there.
[attachimg=3]
The forks I got from DK had longer stanchions in them than normal (pic below)
[attachimg=4]
As the plating is in good nick on the stanchions themselves does anyone know if its feasible to cut them down and rethread internally, save forking out for a new set of K1 stanchions?
Post by: burchy75 on January 30, 2018, 01:47:20 PM
The GSXR/CBR front hubs by Cognito Moto although pricey might be a route I go down at a later point but think I'm going to push on with the standard forks and swinger for now
I also had an old KTM 690 swing arm kicking about the garage that I bought ages ago for a possible project in the future and mocked this up on the CB750 frame itself while I was deluging - I'm not sure myself (ignore the state of the workbench)
[attachimg=1]
Post by: Green1 on January 30, 2018, 06:09:39 PM
It will make the bike another foot longer.
Post by: burchy75 on January 30, 2018, 06:44:10 PM
Post by: Green1 on January 30, 2018, 06:51:55 PM
I think modern rear and front ends always tend to look a little odd as the frames so spindly.
Post by: burchy75 on February 14, 2018, 03:40:46 PM
The front axle was well and truly stuck and was not budging at all with me using an old screwdriver through the axle hole trick. After much swearing and nearly taking my eye out when the screwdriver snapped I decide to doctor an old socket and use a bolt and two nuts through the hole. Allowed me to get a good purchase on the end while I ratcheted the nut off the other end. After a bit of heave ho it finally came lose.
[attachimg=1]
Also set about the bearing retainer itself in both hubs. I have to admit I got a bit medieval on them to get them out but success - both out, without any damage to the hubs
[attachimg=2]
I've also despoked the front and rear wheels and put the hubs to one side ready to be bead blasted. I'm a little unsure as to what rims to go for at the moment, previous CR builders suggestions welcome. I think it's more about tyre choice and costs than anything else really, what has everyone else gone with? I like the Sun rims but they're mega bucks
Some immediate things to take care off:
Rebuild the front forks once the rechromed stanchuions are back from Philpotts (cheers Trigger for the donor stanchions)
Rebuild the carbs with the rebuild kits I got from Yamiya
Press bronze bushes into the swingarm
Send cases off to be chemically stripped
Continue with the frame mods
After this, I'm gonna start tackling the engine itself - right where's my Plastiguage!!!
Post by: Crispy on March 18, 2018, 04:58:51 PM
Still tinkering away on bits and pieces here.
The front axle was well and truly stuck and was not budging at all with me using an old screwdriver through the axle hole trick. After much swearing and nearly taking my eye out when the screwdriver snapped I decide to doctor an old socket and use a bolt and two nuts through the hole. Allowed me to get a good purchase on the end while I ratcheted the nut off the other end. After a bit of heave ho it finally came loose.
Used your method to get my front axle out after two weeks of struggling ..loads of heat, big hammer and your socket idea finally sorted it. I also had a drill bit I was using through the axle hole snap and ricochet around the garage, fortunately missing anything important! ...Thanks for the idea and best of luck with your project!