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Messages - Jontyp
1
« on: August 10, 2016, 07:22:11 AM »
I feel your pain on this one but the solution is more heat. There's nothing else to damage with heat except the seals and you're losing them anyway so have at it with a blow torch. I used a larger motorcycle tyre lever (has a perfectly designed hooked end just right for the job). Take your time, apply plenty of heat and they will come out (always assuming you've taken the wire retaining ring out first which it looks like you have).
Don't be afraid of using heat when stripping down old stuff (with the obvious proviso that you're not melting something important. It works great with steel parts stuck in aluminium (the seal inner ring will be steel) but even with the same materials it can be the best way to break a bond caused by years of corrosion.
2
« on: July 27, 2016, 12:18:50 PM »
3
« on: July 22, 2016, 09:11:41 AM »
4
« on: July 14, 2016, 09:06:11 PM »
I will certainly do that. At the moment its all a bit scattered to the four winds. I'll definitely have lots of standard parts available and I'll offer them up to the folks on here first if that's ok.
Cheers
5
« on: July 14, 2016, 08:35:45 PM »
Well I thought I should update with what little progress I've made with my project.
The end.
Well, nearly. Anyway, it started out as a '78 F2 and in all honesty I'm not sure I had a fully formed plan at the start. I wanted to create a bigger version of a Yoshi 460/4 I built back in 1981/82. I've got it completely stripped down and identified parts that will need to be replaced (for example the rear brake master cylinder is knackered etc etc). I managed to get hold of an alloy fuel tank, oil tank and fairing from a P&M race bike from the same era. The fuel tank was made by the same guy who made P&Ms tanks and has been modified for extra range for the IOM and the fairing has a letter box opening for an oil cooler. I've also just got a replica P&M seat from Ragged Edge Racing (highly recommended btw).
So, overall, the plan is forming to build a roughly period replica endurance racer (so need to get lights in or on the fairing nose), tune the motor (maybe Wiseco 836, new cam, CR carbs etc), oil cooler, clip-ons, rear-sets and so on. Everything that isn't right will be reworked, repaired or replaced. No urgency but I'll keep posting in here and asking questions of the great and good as I go along.
Cheers
6
« on: June 30, 2016, 07:27:25 AM »
Yes indeed. In engineering we typically call them roll taps but they are fluteless as you say. They're only any good in soft materials, obviously. From that web page "M6 x 1.00 HSSe Fluteless STI Wire Insert Roll Tap ". Not especially cheap (and possibly only really useful as a machine tap rather than hand, not sure). I just reckon it would give even better results in combination with a helicoil.
8
« on: June 29, 2016, 02:41:12 PM »
Just a bit of info if anyone wants it. When producing threads in soft material (the alloy used in these engines is a perfect example  ) it's often best to use a roll-tap (as opposed to one that "cuts" the thread). I would suggest that is true even for the wire-thread insert tapped hole. A roll tap does what it says really in that it has no cutting edges but compresses the material structure to form the thread resulting in a stronger thread. I haven't checked to see if roll taps are available for helicoil inserts but it might be worth it (I'll certainly be checking when I come to strip/rebuild my motor.
9
« on: June 02, 2016, 11:47:15 AM »
There you are, you see. The voice of reason    . I took the outer cover off because that was the source of one of the various oil weeps (gasket is fubar) and never bothered to see if the smaller sprocket cover would come off leaving the other one in place. Cheers All.
10
« on: June 02, 2016, 11:19:18 AM »
Trust me on this, I am undoubtedly being unbelievably thick. I'm generally pretty good as a mechanic but at a glance it looked like that cover had to come off to get access to the sprocket cover. I'm at work at the moment but, if I get a chance before I go on holiday tomorrow, I'll have another look. I'm prepared to be laughed at and generally made fun of if it turns out to be simpler than it appears.
11
« on: June 02, 2016, 10:47:20 AM »
Well, who knew that you had to drain the oil to change the front sprocket. How weird. Unless, of course, I'm being ridiculously stupid (it wouldn't be the first time). I don't need to change it by the way, I drained the oil in prep for getting engine out and took that side cover off just for giggles. Lo-and-behold, there's a load of gear change mechanism in a gasketed cavity outboard of the sprocket. On a separate note, that motor is a bit of a lift for one person isn't it. It was like doing the "Atlas Stones" lift getting it onto my work bench   .
12
« on: June 02, 2016, 10:40:50 AM »
Hi Yozzer
I've been looking at this since I need to replace both my coils at some point because they're old and knackered. From what I've read they will work but the original ignition system prefers higher resistance units (specifies 5ohms I believe). I've not found any newer coils that are 5ohm, however. The only potential drawback is that they will pass greater current and, likely, reduce the life of the points to some degree. That's all I've managed to discover so far. I think when the time comes I'll probably replace both the coils and the ignition with matching parts.
13
« on: May 16, 2016, 09:43:09 PM »
Ooo no sir. A good running bike would be no use at all. Where's the fun in that . I've got a hankering for a P&M style endurance race rep type affair but the best bit is the tinkering.
14
« on: May 15, 2016, 09:43:05 PM »
Well, the F2 is rapidly becoming a collection of its constituent parts. Aside from the butchered fork sliders I've found the rear brake master cylinder is also totally goosed. There's loads of other bits I want to replace (coils, cables, most seals and bearings etc etc). On the up-side I did a compression test on the motor (admittedly it was a cold motor) which showed readings all around 160psi and within 5% of each other. So it seems the motor is reasonably healthy. Which is a shame as it will be coming apart anyway .
15
« on: May 08, 2016, 09:53:15 PM »
Well I've started to strip the CB down and make a list of parts that I need to replace rather than those I'll want to replace. Looks like someone had trouble getting old fork seals out, not once, but twice. Why the hell would you do the same thing the second time. It's not as if it's a particularly difficult job. So new forks are on the list now aswell. The stanchions are toast aswell anyway.
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