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« on: September 29, 2020, 05:11:50 PM »
Thanks trigger, yeah understood. yes I was just using the CMS parts thing as a reference to try and explain differences.
I try and triple check every bit of info from all sources. It always takes longer to source the info than do the job. The biggest problem ever on old or later stuff is finding correct tech info for bikes or car work. Nobody said it was easy though ha ha.
David Silver show the angled friction plates for the K2 (if the picture on the web site is anything to go by) so I don't necessarily trust their aftermarket choices either.
I will get some new EBC 1133 friction plates and refit the cleaned up steel plates. My ultrasonic tank did quite a good job on them initially but fine scotch brite brought them up well. Where is the best place for EBC M&P / (demon tweeks ebay) ?
My clutch basket setup would appear to be the same as a K3 I believe.
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« on: September 29, 2020, 03:13:33 AM »
Hi trigger.
Yes the EBC ones seem to be the only ones that do not have the angled grooves between the pads. Whether angles makes any difference anyway who knows.
As for it being a K2 basket I can only assume that it is and that the hub and pressure plate are correct for the basket. Bike chasis number is above 2000000 However it looks as though the K2 and K3 basket part numbers and hub are the same anyway unless I got that wrong.
To me this looks more like the CMSNL K3 parts layout. just 7 friction plates with vertical grooves and 6 steel plates. Springs with a dash of yellow paint on them.
I have no washers under the 4x clutch springs? where they seat on the hub and no wire ring stopper or differnt size steel clutch plate A as mentioned in the K2 parts diagram.
I think EBC 1133 states it fits K1 K2 K3 K4 ?
Its very confusing and hard to double check as you know, no part numbers on the clutch basket hub or pressure plate.
Thanks
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« on: September 28, 2020, 06:20:36 PM »
Hi,
Re my 1972 CB750 K2 (USA imported bike)
Can anybody recommend an aftermarket source for a set of friction plates vertical groove type. Most seem to be the type with the angled groove. OEM friction and steel plates are like hens teeth now to get hold of and the price of a gold bar. David silver alternative version friction plates seem to be the angled type. As do CMSNL.
EBC friction plates look vertical grooves from the picture, but are listed as heavy duty plates? does this mean they are thicker. Or is does the word heavy duty relate to the material being harder? Does that not mean more drag when the clutch is disengaged? which I'm trying to avoid. The clutch is apart because the bike has been standing, the clutch does not free enough and I can't get back into neutral when the engine is running. All tolerances are within spec however, so I was just going to put new friction plates back in.
I might change the steel plates, but the aftermarket steel plates do not look from the pictures as though they have the many tiny detents in them ? does this not make a lot of difference ? I assume they are designed to retain some oil.
Has anybody got first hand experience of fitting either the angled friction discs in place of straight cut ones and none original steel plates without the tiny detents. Does it really make a lot of difference. Hondaman seems to think it does, but maybe things have changed over the years and the angled ones are the ones to fit now.
Thanks any thoughts appreciated.
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« on: June 26, 2018, 12:17:06 AM »
With the carbs still on the bike, off the bike, separate together?
You sure it's not because the slides themselves are in slightly different adjusted positions ? i.e. the way the carbs were left after last synced by somebody?
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« on: June 25, 2018, 08:24:33 PM »
Hi El_burro,
Just asking a load of general questions here, so people get a better idea of your problem,
Starting at the beginning, in case I missed something, You got the Gunson I guess because you have a problem you could not resolve? and how did this problem show itself 'before' you could see the plug colour on #1
What colour are you seeing on # 1 , Orange ?
Regarding plug colour, do you have 3 plugs that look normal burn and one sooted up?
Just double checking, when you say carbs synced, I guess you do mean with gauges and not just bench synced ? Are you bench syncing first? I guess so.
With the idle jets out one turn, do they gauge sync up ok or does the engine not idle smoothly ?
So are you saying you have raised the needles, was that to richen up because of the pod type filters?
You changed the main jets? increased them in size or just replaced them?
What brass bits in the carbs now are still standard Honda and what are from a Chinese carb rebuild kit?
Do you set all the air screws to the default 1 out positions, then sync the carbs with then check with the colour tune and it's not blue on #1 ?
Are you saying you have to turn out 2 -3 -4 air screws further than 1.25 turns to get the blue colour? Is this after you have synced them you alter the air screws again? which is leaning it up, so is the Gunson colour very orange before you start then? Where are the needle positions now, what size jets are you running in there?
Where is your carb vent tube located?
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« on: June 25, 2018, 01:20:16 AM »
Hi, yes, the book says 19" I have mine out at present 1972 750 K2 and they measure just 1/4 inch under that, which is pretty close (I'm talking inches not mm because that's straght from the manual) either they have not lost their spring much in all that time or have been replaced at some point. It's the seal type p/n / depth of seal (seal stiction debate) I ended up giving the most thought to on my older K2
My 1975 CB550 had progressive springs as standard honda fit. That seemed a good idea for the 750, but it was suggested by hondaman on the usa website that progressive springs are not such a good idea for the CB750 so I decided to stick with normal non progressive on that.
Type of oil you end up with for riding style I guess depends a lot also on how worn they are internally and is a suck it and see thing. I think honda went to ATF because it extended seal life, but to me it is not viscoss enough maybe for older forks with a bit of wear. Also I hear people say that 10w is the same vicossity as 10 w30 at 20C but to me 10w seems pretty obviously a lot thinner than 10w 30 just shaking it.
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« on: June 18, 2018, 12:56:53 AM »
Hi, to answer your question, no your broken isolation washer (if it was allowing the screw thread to touch the bracket) would kill the spark at the points and stop the engine firing on two cylinders..
Other possible reasons for excessive sparking might be - if your points are pitted, oxidised, have a high resistance across them, or if they have been cleaned maybe with emery cloth or some sort of abrasive paper, (which leaves tiny bits stuck in the points surface)
Is it only sparking bad on that set of points then?
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