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Messages - boxie30
1
« on: November 19, 2017, 06:06:02 PM »
Taken the rocker head off and there is oil all over the cam and most importantly over the cam ends where they sit in the cylinder head, So i am getting oil!! There is no scoring in the heads where the cam goes it is perfectly smooth.
A bit of history of this engine. Got it as a non runner, stripped the engine down completely, got it soda blasted and painted and then I reassembled it.
Run it for about 2 minutes and tried to put it into gear to check it was all working and it died straight away, with a bit of a crunching noise.
Took the engine out and removed the crank case to get at the gears. Realising that i put the 1st gear cog on the wrong way!!!!!.
Reassembled it and refitted, got the points sorted and restarted.
I did not get the noise when it was only running on one cylinder, the Right hand side. Only when i got both cylinders to fire that i got the noise, which is coming from the Right hand side.
A couple of questions:
Would a piston ring, put in upside down cause this?
Would the cam chain tensioner being too loose or too tight cause it?
Cheers.
2
« on: November 18, 2017, 03:42:40 PM »
I have finally managed to start the bike with both cylinder firing.
I now have a new problem, there is a high pitched "squeal" !
I presume it is the camshaft rotating in the head, as the G5s do not have a bearing to spin on.
Is there a way to check if the camshaft is getting enough oil without stripping it all down again?
Or should i let it turn over for a while to make sure the oil pressure is forcing oil up to the camshaft?
3
« on: November 18, 2017, 03:25:22 PM »
Sorted it,
The yellow wire from points to coils was frayed, making intermittent contact. It wasn't until i gave it a pull that it snapped, the insulation was intact and it was where it goes through the fins, so was not really looking for it .
Thanks, (now to find the reason for the high pitched squealing while its turning over)
4
« on: November 10, 2017, 12:39:24 PM »
Thanks for both your replies,
I had tested the condenser and was getting 0.22uf, but had not checked the resistance of the insulation. I have ordered a brand new condenser just to check, before i spend £60 on a nos one.
Ash, I will keep a look out for the shop manual.
5
« on: November 09, 2017, 12:14:30 PM »
It turns out it was the brand new (nos) points.
I have filed them down until the points face was shiny, but they still do not spark.
I will buy another nos one and maybe a brand new one just in case.
One question, should the spark at the point be "white" as the spark i am getting from the good side looks orange?
Cheers.
6
« on: November 03, 2017, 10:12:54 AM »
I never thought to clean the points first...... I had just filed them down a tad just in case.
I had tried two different set of coils but got the same result.
The condensers do look a little rusty on top, so i will strip them down and clean everything.
7
« on: November 03, 2017, 07:53:09 AM »
I had only screwed the points in, straight out of the box, but i will have a look tonight.
The cover was on when i got the problem, but has been off while checking.
Cheers.
8
« on: November 02, 2017, 09:17:45 PM »
Hi all,
I have no spark at the points on the left cylinder. I have tested the coils and get the correct ohm reading, also tried a second set of coils and get the correct ohm reading.
If i swap the wires of the coils from the left to the right i get a spark from the left spark plug but the left hand points still do not spark. Which makes me think the coils are okay.
The point are brand new and i have gapped and regapped them about 4 times.
I also have checked all the wiring for breaks and all are good.
I did get a spark from the left points while i was gapping them but from the location where the wire is screwed onto the points, but as soon as i gapped them correctly it went away.
Any thoughts as i am at a loss.
9
« on: July 19, 2017, 09:29:22 PM »
Finally got chance to strip it down!
The only thing that i can see that may be causing any interference is the neutral switch.
When the bump on the gear change drum tries to go into neutral or into first, it hits the side of the neutral switch, stopping it from going any further. If i pull the gear change drum out by 1mm it goes into neutral and passed into 1st gear?
I can see no washers or shims, on any of the parts lists, to push the gear drum out to enable this.
Also when looking at the Genuine Honda manual, it is asking for a washer 35751-333-003 (195) as well as the neutral switch. The Haynes manual does not reference the washer as a separate item from the switch.
David silver has the washer, so i might have to just purchase it in case it is needed and solves the switch poking in too far. But it seems a little strange as the switch already has a washer half way along its length....
10
« on: July 12, 2017, 08:20:30 AM »
Thanks Bryan and Ash,
I will have a look this weekend.
Thanks.
11
« on: July 11, 2017, 08:13:39 PM »
Hi all,
Hope someone can help me!
I have just finished rebuilding the engine, following the Haynes manual.
I am not able to get it into 1st or into neutral.
When i tried to put it into 1st with the engine running, it died and then never went back into neutral.
I have removed the clutch, to check the drum selector, which looks in the right place
A couple of questions:
Does the gearbox mainshaft always spin with the back wheel when not in gear?
Why would it not go into 1st, it goes into all the other gears, 2nd to 6th and back again.
Cheers.
12
« on: March 09, 2017, 07:22:41 PM »
RCJ Chromers, Rear mudguard. The only decent chrome i had done were handlebars, that to be honest, where in reasonable condition to begin with, from Nottingham platers.But they did destroy my set of indicator bases after  I never argued the price with any of the platers, even offering a little extra on a couple of items, so i wasn't trying to be cheap. Only a couple of parts left to do, so may be lucky. Michael.
13
« on: March 09, 2017, 06:55:46 PM »
Marks reason "the rim is a problem as we had problems trying to seal the metal and looks like it has spotted out" They still sent it back to me and i had to return it back to them. Wouldn't it have been more logical just to fix it first? 
14
« on: March 09, 2017, 06:53:10 PM »
Picture of rim
15
« on: March 09, 2017, 11:35:32 AM »
Used RS for chroming a headlight rim.
Had to send it back as there was rust spots all over it. He rechromed it, sent it back and i went out and brought a NOS part to replace it.
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