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Messages - totty

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CB500/550 / Re: Guess I have a head gasket leak
« on: February 12, 2018, 11:00:13 AM »

But probably the O ring on the oil feed to the cam at the head gasket. Seen quite a few leaks there and all were the LHS.

If this is the source it may correct itself, mine did this whenever it had been stood a few months but cleared up with frequent use.

CB500/550 / Re: Misfires above 4,500
« on: October 13, 2017, 04:07:16 PM »
I still think no 3 sooting is a separate problem, these bikes will rev higher than 4500 on 3 cylinders.

CB500/550 / Re: Misfires above 4,500
« on: September 29, 2017, 04:03:23 PM »

The fuel strainer was renewed and a visual check of both tank outlets, with hoses removed, shows a steady uninterrupted flow of fuel.

That pretty much rules out fuel flow, but since it's one of the few things you can rig up to test while the heads off it might be worth a quick test for a steady flow on each carb drain.

CB500/550 / Re: Misfires above 4,500
« on: September 29, 2017, 11:08:42 AM »
It's only when you open the throttle full that it bogs down and yes I suppose stutters as you call it.

That (with jetting and carb cleanliness ruled out) would make me think fuel flow, the strainer, hose, pipes between carbs or float needles could have a restriction. Could be as simple as a kinked or internally collapsing fuel hose, that would be a good result, nice cheap and easy fix.

Also yes I'd expect a ring issue to result in burning oil, but it wouldn't take much to make one plug sooty.

CB500/550 / Re: Misfires above 4,500
« on: September 29, 2017, 09:14:44 AM »
I've just re read it all and I'd advise one further test with the Boyer before swapping back to points, swap parts around so the sooty one runs off both a different lead, coil, cap, plug - ideally having another cylinder run off the suspect set of parts. (they all fire at once and the leads unplug from the coils so this should be easy to setup)
I'd also check the unit has a really good earth and temporarily add an earth to the engine in case it's mounts are isolated by paint - I've seen bad earths act like a rev limiter.

I'd also follow the compression test advice once it's back together, but while the head is off I'd remove the barrels and check the bore and rings on the cylinder with the sooty plug.
The sooty plug should really only be caused by oil buring or a rich mixture and you've rulled out the rich mixture.

What happens at 4,500, does the engine tone go dull like one cylinders stopped firing or does it go erratic and stutter like a typical misfire. How consistent is it, is it always at 4,500 and immediately on hitting it or is in just in that ball park, does it recover immediately when the revs drop?

I wouldn't rule out two independent problems here. More gut feel than anything but I doubt the sooty plug is an ignition problem and swapping parts around will confirm this, however I also doubt that something which would cause a sooty plug would consistently only give symptoms at a set rpm.

Misc / Open / Re: Paint - the return of the blurg
« on: September 07, 2017, 07:06:05 PM »
Bare metal is preferable if possible, I wouldn't reline if I could do a metal repair.

Misc / Open / Re: Paint - the return of the blurg
« on: September 07, 2017, 04:35:07 PM »
I wouldn't trust an old unknown liner, if it leaks or lifts then it risks damaging your nice new paintwork. A small leak can produce blisters like the one you started with.

I'd take the opportunity to remove it if possible and to braze any holes it may be sealing. I've had both petseal and POR15 liners fail, in my opinion they're a last resort to use only when necessary.

Other Bikes / Re: no laughing please...
« on: September 05, 2017, 09:21:10 AM »
You can get devices to make a cable clutch lighter, they're common on old trials bikes. They fit on one end of the cable and have another cable coming out of them, they just change the leverage so extending the release lever has the same effect.

You can also remove a pair of springs from the clutch, fit lighter springs, or use stepped washers or thinner plates to reduce the pre-load, but each bike is different and you can only go so far before you get clutch slip.

Moving the clutch lever in so your fingers are closer to the end giving you more leverage can also help.

I've got tendon problems and I find a CB1300 clutch heavy, heavier than the CB550 I had, but with the 1300s torque to you don't need to change as often.

Misc / Open / Re: Why don't Harley riders ever look in their mirrors ?
« on: September 03, 2017, 08:31:22 PM »
Vibration, mirrors are just a blur.

Other Bikes / Re: My Monkey bike won't run properly
« on: September 01, 2017, 01:45:59 PM »
Also sounds like fuel supply to me.
Fuel hose could be breaking up internally, float height could be wrong, whatever blocked the float valve could have also got elsewhere.

Good to see another monkey bike post, I ride a Jincheng copy.

CB500/550 / Re: This guy doesn't know what a UK 500K1 should look like
« on: August 10, 2017, 09:51:31 AM »
In my experience BP Ultimate seems to be very aggressive on seals and tank liners, I persevered with it due to recommendations and having a bike at the time that needed high octane, but after 3 leaks in a year I haven't used it since, and haven't had a leak in 5 years.
On the other hand I've had zero issues with the often criticised supermarket fuels, and there was a link recently on this site to an article that explained why E10 is better than E5 from a separation and corrosion perspective.

CB500/550 / Re: Fuel for a bike that sees little use
« on: August 07, 2017, 09:49:01 AM »
Whenever fuel is left in a float bowl most will evaporate leaving behind some residue.
How much builds up depends on how many cycles of this you put it through.
How much of a problem the build up causes depends on where it builds up, how small channels/jets are, and how easily accessible it is to remove.
If you're not going to run it at all it would be better to drain but probably doesn't matter much as you're only going to evaporate off one bowl full, if you're going to run it occasionally I'd drain or run dry each time.
What can really mess the carbs up is a petcock that slowly leaks so check it.
Ethanol also corrodes some metals, but as far as I'm aware it doesn't seem to be a big issue for our carbs.
The tank as already mentioned is about avoiding condensation, temperature changes draw air in and the water from it condenses and sinks below the fuel. A full tank leaves less air space.

Tricks & Tips / Re: Mudguard Rust Proofing Recommendations Please
« on: July 25, 2017, 09:33:39 AM »
I prefer to remove/treat rust them paint, but just scrubbing the loose of and waxoyling it is an option. I use ACF50 on the outer surfaces, I'm not a fan of polishing so some corrosion protection is needed.

CB500/550 / Re: Electronic ignition
« on: July 07, 2017, 07:10:58 PM »
I don't think you run four coils only that the replacement coils don't fit th regular bracket and it fires all four plugs at once? Maybe Totty can elucidate.

That's correct.

CB500/550 / Re: CB550K3 - the secret of the perfect tickover
« on: July 07, 2017, 04:01:07 PM »
Whenever the bikes left standing for a while drain float bowls, fill with redex via the fuel pipe, kick it over to draw some through the jets, drain again when you next want to use it.
That sorted out and maintained the tickover when I had a k3.

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