Honda-SOHC

Hi
I've just stripped said pivot pin (1975 K2) and damaged the alloy casting (that holds shaft and carb bank).  It appears to have two removable keys in the shaft that slot into the casting in a set position (rotating shaft/casting) and then slide out easily. I've just bought another alloy casting from ebay (USA).
While I'm on subject - please see my new thread on carb bracket finish
Hope this helps (will let you know how assembly goes in few weeks after plating)
By the way - cruzimage on ebay (japan based) have kits for all 4 carbs for £28 - don't know what there like. I've tried to buy them but cant because says seller will not sell to me!
Phil 

Thanks trigger - will get engine rebuilt tomorrow

Hi Guys
Completed rebuild of engine last week and fitted into frame.  As per a previous enquiry, I fitted some high performance valve springs (from a spare American import engine) that included shims which I didn't fit because thought there was enough extra spring strength.  Anyway, got paranoid and couldn't remember whether I'd fitted the aftermarket spring seat (or whether the unfitted shims where actually used as the seat) and had to re-strip top end to check and for my piece of mind. Turns out that I had fitted the valve spring seats and it was a waste of a night - but now have piece of mind!
Question is - whats your thoughts on re-using the head gasket which has compressed from 1.35 to 1.15 mm.  Obviously not run engine.  As its a new big bore kit, I'll have to get new gasket from Japan (cruzimage) which will take few weeks.
What do you think?
Phil

It did have a high comp 836 kit on - only discovered when I got the other newly bored barrels back and thought I'd see how much bigger the new bore was to std pistons - only to discover they fitted straight in!
I'll compare cams and see if there's a difference.
If the springs are just a heavy duty (American) aftermarket set, what effect will they have on normal riding - the bike won't be used hard (got other bikes for that). I do understand the advantages of heavier spring when used at high revs but will they impact on low speed running?
Would buy a new set but spent a fortune on new parts for engine already.

Have got the bottom end together and big bore barrels bored - just waiting for knock pins and then barrels will be on.
Before I ask my next question, probably best to give background to my rebuild.
Bought a K2 in total bits in mid 2012 - rusty and heavily corroded crankcases (in bits). Was going to replace most chrome/etc so as long as all tin ware and main chassis bits there I wasn't bothered by condition.
Decided that I would buy a complete motor to rebuild and bought one from DK. But on stripping the top end, it was evident that cam carrier oil way brockage had caused cam journal/carrier damage.
So after a bit of mix n matching between the new engine and engine bits I had, rebuilt bottom end of DK sourced engine (mains/big ends/primary chain/etc/etc) and barrels and head from original bike which was in good order except valve spring missing (and fin damage on DK sourced engine).
As valve springs where out of original head and a bit rusty, I wasn't happy to put them in rebuilt motor and as I'm running out of cash(!) thought I'd use valve springs out of DK sourced motor.
I took them out tonight and they have 3 springs per valve! An inner and outer and an additional flat spring that that runs between the inner and outer. The collet holders are also a heavily machined item compared to the thin standard items.
So has anybody got any idea about these springs and holders and more importantly, will they be ok to use with standard cam and standard set up (except big bore on std compression).
Incidently, turned out the DK motor turned out to have had a 836 kit on.
Thanks
Phil

Tried again to upload but the picture is 1.48mb (just a phone picture?) so can't show finished result
Phil

Hi Bomber
I served my time as an engineer and worked in aero industry with all the top make tools.  I bought some Halfords Pro range several years ago and rate them - think they've got lifetime guarantee too
Phil

Havn't kept link but 'cut and pasted' the info - see below:-

There have been lots of reports of leaking head gaskets, even with Vesrah kits, so here's some of the things I ferretted out today, using a new VG-157 top end kit:

1. The Vesrah head gaskets (like most of them today) have no sealant in them. This means you should add your own around the oil drain passages, even around the oil feed passages.

2. The orange (silicone high-temp) 11x2.4mm O-rings Vesrah supplies for the head-cylinder interface for the oil feed passages are TOO SMALL and TOO SOFT, a bad combination. I have posted about this before, but here goes again: use at least a 2.5mm cross-section O-ring (2.6mm is better, harder to find) with the Vesrah head gasket(s) or the ones from the Crusin'Image 836cc piston kits. The OEM size of this O-ring was 11x2.4mm, but that was for a 1mm (.040") thick Honda head gasket: the Vesrah gaskets are about 1.2mm (.050") thick instead (so are the 836 gaskets). So, the O-rings must be AT LEAST 0.2mm thicker than the OEM version. The softness of the silicone O-ring is fine for a drain, but not for 70+ PSI oil pressures: use either Buna or Viton here. Buna will be OK unless you plan on using synthetic oils a lot: then it can weep here. So, add sealant around the oil feed passages if you are going that route. I did it anyway, so I'm sure the next disassembly will be the Devils' Child...

3. If you get 'stuck' with the post-1973 head gasket (big holes for the 8 oil drains) and you have a pre-1973 engine, insert a 2x11.5 or 2x12 O-ring into each head gasket "drain hole". I had the correct head gasket here, so this picture doesn't show up just now: mine is the small holes all around. This issue has come up on the Crusin'Image 836 kits when installed into pre-1973 engines (I hear about it a lot) because of the leaks that can occur.

4. Add sealant around the whole cam chain tunnel. Honda did: I'm sure it was important!

Hope that helps