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Messages - andy_c101
31
« on: March 14, 2014, 10:33:31 PM »
just to close out my original thread.
MOT today - PASSED!
good to go for another year...
32
« on: March 11, 2014, 08:50:18 PM »
Steph,
I'm dead envious of the condition of both your 550's.
especially four gleaming 4-into-4 pipes on the K3.
My K3 is (still) on the lookout for the last one of four ORIGINAL pipes (No4 cyl)
- the last of the "hens teeth" one might say!
here's a piccy of mine down alongside the flooded River Severn.
33
« on: March 11, 2014, 08:40:36 PM »
As I posted only last week: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=6300.0& its early days yet, but I had my shoes re-lined at Villiers Services. At least there was no problem installing the shoes at the first attempt (unlike those DS pattern shoes florence mentioned). - done 50+ miles and they feel fine.
34
« on: March 09, 2014, 11:08:59 PM »
James: Villiers service re-lining cost £17-95 : http://villiersservices.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=21_99&products_id=146matthewmosse: I plan to hang on to the old hub/wheel for now; I may have a crack at getting the hub re-lined; I may even practice at re-spoking the wheel rim (something I've always wanted to do but been too 'scared' to do on a 'real' wheel). - not that I don't have plenty of jobs to do! PS: had a great test run out today around the cotswolds in this fine sunny weather; rear brake a lot lot smoother, not 'grabby' at all.
35
« on: March 08, 2014, 09:33:48 PM »
Just thought I'd share with you some of my prep for my MOT & hopefully some fine Spring weather. My 550 rear wheel was in a sorry state; rusty & a couple of broken spokes, heavily rusted chrome rim, cracked hub lining. Over the winter I hunted down an original wheel with great chrome, sound spokes & hub - an American import I'm told. - trouble is there's a lot of sand in those American 'dry states', gets everywhere! It needed stripping & a thorough cleaning & new bearings. So now i've fitted a new tube & Dunlop TT100 - keeps that classic look. Re-lined brake shoes courtesy of Villiers Services - better than some unknown brand on flea bay SKF Precision bearings -  Checked & cleaned cush drive rubbers a general clean & degrease of the hub - Now we're ready to roll. I hope Mr MOT-man agrees next week!
36
« on: March 02, 2014, 04:57:09 PM »
I would take a step or back.
Disconnect cables from the carbs.
Check the twist grip turns freely, with cables sliding back n forth ok.
Note which cable 'opens' the throttle, and which one closes it.
Check carb sliders lift up and down ok, by turning the centre pulley.
If you take off the return spring (by the throttle stop) everything should move freely with little resistance.
Note, if you are unsure of the open and closed positions, see which way the pulley rotates and returns to the throttle stop adjuster screw.
Also, I see you haven't yet connected the choke cable, just make sure that the 'choke-arm' (off the carb-pulley) hasnt got stuck against the airbox or something, that could the carb-pulley from rotating.
The throttle-OPENING cable runs UNDERNEATH the pulley and hooks up into the slot at the rear of the pulley.
When re-fitting the throttle cables, make sure the cables locate in the groove on the carb-pulley; it is fiddly but with the tank removed it is possible; sometimes a set of long nose-pliers can assist in locating the cable nipples into the slots on the pulley.
goodluck with it.
37
« on: March 02, 2014, 04:29:43 PM »
I'd say. yes, it does look like the rack for a 550. The racks mount at upper shock mount bolt and the bolt that supports the side of the rear mudguard under the seat. The distance between centres for a 550 should be approx 175mm, for the front 'prong' and the lug on the chrome tube. I modified a '750' rack by welding two new lugs to match my 550. I then made up an adaptor plate to attach a Givi monolock plate & topbox (not very 'classic' looking, but functional) It worked a treat for the Classic TT trip last year: http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6171.0;attach=5544;image
39
« on: February 12, 2014, 09:51:05 PM »
Hi Kev
good luck with your 500K project.
Just for inspiration, (later model I know) ....
-my 550K3 parked up at the Niarbyl Cafe, on the west coast, during the practice week of the Classic TT 2013.
Andy C
40
« on: September 22, 2013, 09:20:07 PM »
Managed to spilt the crankcase today. Once the top-end, cylinder etc. was off, I was able to split the cases WITHOUT having to strip/remove all the side-case parts such as generator; clutch, oil pump and balancer shaft & its chain. So that speeded things up quite considerably. With the balancer shaft chain still on, the upper case doesn't completely lift away, but enough clearance to allow access to change the final drive seal. While doing this I have also swapped the final drive assembly shaft, as the old drive splines (for the chain sprocket) had worn badly leaving much backlash (not uncommon on these old single 'thumpers').  Just need to button it all back together, top-end 'n all later in the week. [I don't know why I was so hesitant in the first place; the moral is 'just do it!] Andy
41
« on: September 11, 2013, 09:15:33 PM »
Yes, it has horizontal split cases.
I did try installing a new seal without splitting the cases.
I thought it was worth trying, (& yes with some Honda engine gasket sealant in the casing groove too), but the seal just got all chewed up!
Now reading up on the procedure for the engine strip n rebuild.
I hope I don't find any new 'horrors' inside, when I open it up!
All good experience I suppose!
Cheers
Andy
42
« on: September 10, 2013, 10:16:36 PM »
I really can't believe it!
(Apparently) It seems that back in the 80's Honda designed an engine (the CB250RS) where you have to split the crankcase in order to replace and fit the final drive sprocket shaft seal!
Crazy!
- unless anyone out there knows a way of fitting a new seal without a complete strip-down of the engine bottom end & gearbox.
Andy
43
« on: August 14, 2013, 11:35:40 PM »
Anyone taking their Honda-SOHC over to IOM for the ClassicTT festival?
44
« on: March 07, 2013, 09:55:01 PM »
They did exist in black, back in 1978 I had a Black K3.
On returning to the K3 ownership I found myself with the Brown version, but I kept hankering back for a black one ('my first love', as they say...)
- I couldn't find a code for Excel Black either, but I came across a guy near Cirencester who did me a fine spray job, including some excellent hand painted pinstripes instead of tank decals.
Andy C
45
« on: January 14, 2013, 09:47:34 PM »
I've not worked on the 250G, (so this is more speculative, & not authoritative)
but my experience on a 550 points timing, I find that I can set the static points timing with a bulb, to light on the "F" mark, BUT.... I then have to be extra extra careful that on re-tightening the points baseplate, that nothing moves.
I go round the (three) baseplate screws by just a fraction of a turn to tighten it it all down so that nothing moves.
- in the past. that has caused me to 'loose' ignition on one coil.
Otherwise be methodical, and patient; you will get there!
AC
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