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Messages - totty
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316
« on: March 09, 2010, 07:09:46 PM »
Oil is reaching the top end, although I've got no idea of how much oil to expect.
The static timing is still spot on so the points can't of slipped.
I couldn't do much else by torch light.
Any idea how your supposed to get the front lower bolt out of the sprocket/pump cover to get to the oil pressure switch? There isn't enough clearance around it to get a spanner or socket on it. I've also found that the gear selector seal is leaking so I'll do that while I'm on.
317
« on: March 09, 2010, 01:43:22 PM »
The tank had 2L of old petrol in it when I bought it, that was replaced by 5L of fresh before riding it. I've removed the tap and found that the plastic strainer is missing which further increases the chance of dirt getting in. (any idea where I can get one of these at a decent price?)
I don't really have anything to gauge the temp against, overheating was assumed as it felt/smelt very hot and started easily once it cooled down. "8 stroking" would describe how it ran for the final few seconds before it stalled and refused to restart.
On the way home the bogging still occurred in but felt less harsh, more like a restriction. It idled fine and restarted easily when home.
So far for the oil pressure light all I've tested is the bulb and it was not the cause. I'll check for oil reaching the top end as advised and then look at the wiring. I also intend to drop the sump and clean the strainer.
The points had just been replaced so slippage may well be the cause, I've got the cover off and the tools next to it but work has been stopping me from getting any further with it.
Cheers
Allan
318
« on: March 07, 2010, 08:58:21 PM »
It's a Motad. I've got no idea how it should sound so I don't know if it's been messed with.
319
« on: March 07, 2010, 07:02:42 PM »
The filler cap breather seemed to be blocked as I couldn't blow through it, but I need to wait of the tax disk arriving in the post before I can test ride it.
Cheers
Allan
320
« on: March 07, 2010, 10:51:18 AM »
I've used Petseal on a tank with a leaky seam, it was fine for a couple of months then I used BP Ultimate and it reacted. (also rotted the seal on the petrol tap on both that bike and my minimoto.)
I've hared of people putting old nuts and bolts in the tank, wrapping it in towels and putting it in the tumble dryer.
321
« on: March 06, 2010, 06:05:42 PM »
Which bit do you mean by "badly fitted air box rubber" ?
The rubbers on the carb to inlet side are quite hard but spraying carb cleaner around then doesn't affect the tickover so they aren't leaking. I can't get my head around how the carb to aribox or even the join from the airbox to the filter housing could have an effect but I'll definitely check them.
I've also just remembered that the fuel level is quite low as I only put 5L in it, but I did run it with the tap set to reserve.
Cheers
Allan
322
« on: March 06, 2010, 04:50:57 PM »
The good news is it not only started for the MOT but passed and got me home  Do you know what the flow rate should be or should I just look for a steady stream? I've sprayed a bit of carb cleaner around to confirm that it's not a vacuum leak. I noticed the symptoms after riding just about 50 yards on the way home so I don't think it could be a symptom of overheating.
323
« on: March 06, 2010, 01:20:57 PM »
Hi, Having a bit of an MOT disaster today - It started bogging at around 3,500rpm on route and wouldn't go any higher unless I was very gentle on the throttle then refused to pass 4,500rpm. When I stopped outside it was holding revs, I turned it off while some space was cleared, it then started but ran really flat and wouldn't pull up the hill, stalled and wouldn't restart. I'm thinking that it possibly overheated, but not sure if the cause is ignition or fuel related (vacuum leak maybe), or it could even be oil flow as I'm yet to trace why the oil pressure light doesn't work. They're going to leave it to cool for a couple of hours before trying to start it for an MOT and I'm arranging a van to take it home  Any tips would be great, I've got a strobe so the ignition should be easy to test. Cheers Allan
324
« on: March 03, 2010, 08:52:43 PM »
It's booked in for an MOT on Sat so wish me luck 
325
« on: February 27, 2010, 05:58:55 PM »
It now drops back to tick over itself but there is a little bit of a lag from 2.5k down over. I don't know if this is a normal characteristic or a side effect of something, possibly the carbs not being balanced yet.
The bracket that holds the outer part of the throttle cable was misaligned and there was barely any detectable slack on the cable. It's also had fresh fuel. Ran out of daylight.
Cheers
Allan
326
« on: February 24, 2010, 01:54:04 PM »
I was but but I'll certainly double check before pulling anything else apart.
327
« on: February 24, 2010, 08:35:03 AM »
They appeared to be clear when I stripped the carbs, but I didn't remove them so they may not be as clear as I thought. The bike idles nicely, definitely running on all four, it just holds at 3k after being revved. I don't recall it doing this before I cleaned the carbs but I had only hared it running twice at the time, I also set the points and timing up on the same day so that doesn't really narrow it down.
328
« on: February 23, 2010, 04:34:48 PM »
No I didn't remove them, just blew through. I found the carbs to be a right pain to remove and refit so I'll keep this in mind but try the easier to access bits first.
I'll lookup the chassis number to check at some stage.
329
« on: February 23, 2010, 11:19:18 AM »
Hi,
I hadn't even considered that it might be ignition related, I'll clean it up as you suggest at the weekend.
The screws are all 1.5 turns out, but I haven't removed them. I'll take them out and have a look. I haven't made any attempt to balance the carbs yet as I only have a single vacuum gauge.
Cheers
Allan
330
« on: February 22, 2010, 07:51:06 PM »
79 reg, I think it's a k3.
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