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Messages - totty
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76
« on: April 12, 2016, 09:17:22 AM »
I've never measured the gap, but I know you can leave two fingers on the grip without squashing them. (Before remembering which bike you're on and starting to use all 4 again due to the effort required)
Small adjustments to the caliper arm can also have an impact on how far the lever moves.
77
« on: April 07, 2016, 04:40:30 PM »
This is on the assumption that it's the same as a 550.......
The block should plug into the socket previously used by the rectifier. The black wire and white wire should go to the wires of the same color that currently go to the regulator, the green to the old regulator is now unused.
The green must be a good earth and the black must be a good switched live, the voltage is sensed across these wires and will be too low or too high if either has a poor connection at some point.
A poor connection may be the route cause of your problem not the reg/rec, or the original reg may be out of adjustment. On my bike I had both of these issues, and the same as you I bought a modern unit first which was not needed - and in my case doesn't work properly anyway so I'm back to the original parts.
78
« on: April 07, 2016, 04:31:43 PM »
If you're not planning to use it any time soon just poor some redex down the fuel pipe to fill the bowls and leave it. You know the carbs aren't filthy as you've already stripped them so I can't see it doing any harm. I've cleared pilot jet passages this way before.
79
« on: March 23, 2016, 09:59:35 AM »
Welcome to the forum.
If it were mine I'd change only what is required to make it roadworthy, once restored it won't really feel like the same bike.
I wonder how many forum members still have their first bike.
I still have my first road bike, a 2003 Jincheng M50D (Z50 copy), it's rough but it's still in use.
My first bike used off road was a PC50, 76 I think, it was sold to a mate for £40 many years ago.
80
« on: March 22, 2016, 11:39:57 AM »
Prices seem to be all over the place, the only constant is waves of tidy but not exceptional bikes at £2500, anything either side of that seems quite random.
I'm watching the market as I'm still considering selling my 550. The rolling resto has kind of restarted, as not having trials bike transport has free'd up some time, but at least it'll help the price.
81
« on: March 20, 2016, 01:48:02 PM »
Charging now within spec. The points gap on the original regulator was far smaller than spec.
Carbs balanced while I was on.
82
« on: March 19, 2016, 04:59:25 PM »
Still won't charge at more than 12.2. Drops to 11.9 if the lights are switched on.
Ignition switch wiring wasn't as bad as I thought, cut out one bit of corrosion where I think a scotch lock had been, sorted out the badly soldered red wire.
Black voltage sense wire is just 0.04v below battery.
Reg/rec earth to battery is 0.7ohm as is red to black at ignition switch. The meters leads show 0.6ohm which implies the tested wires are just 0.1.
All connectors are clean and tight.
I think I'm going to have to retry the old reg and rec, but lost patience and went home for beer and motogp qualifying.
Unless I work on it again tomorrow it'll be 2 to 3 weeks till the next attempt.
83
« on: March 08, 2016, 08:37:24 PM »
Bell m1 looks slightly retro, has a five star saftey rating and is excellent for wind noise and avoiding neck strain.
It needs a very round head shape though, if you have a narrow head you get a painful pressure on forehead.
84
« on: March 01, 2016, 03:28:26 PM »
For most bikes you need to tap them out from the opposite side, either pushing the spacer to one side or using a cut out in it. I would always replace after this, and if you're replacing them you don't need to worry about damaging them so anything that fits is a suitable tool. I've never just re greased but I guess to do that you'd leave them in place and just remove the outer seal.
85
« on: March 01, 2016, 02:35:30 PM »
I've got new terminals, terminal cleaning tools, dialectic grease and half a used CB650 loom on order. That lot combined with the guidance I've received on this thread should be all I need to get it sorted.
Thanks everyone. I'll post results.
86
« on: February 28, 2016, 06:58:09 PM »
I don't think I checked the earth, I'll have look at it as well.
87
« on: February 28, 2016, 05:50:29 PM »
I packed up before reading these posts, I'll test as suggested one evening through the week.
I cleaned several connections, the top plug of the three down the side of the electrics panel made a difference bringing the black wire up to 0.2v below battery, but surprisingly it didn't affect charging.
The ignition switch wiring could do with some work, externally the switch looks new, but the wires to it are a little corroded and covered in a different tape with a lump in it. It looks like a spliced in replacement but I haven't unpicked it yet. I could probably do with a replacement one if anyone's got a loom they're cutting up.
88
« on: February 28, 2016, 04:19:02 PM »
Just tested and the voltage between the red wire from the reg/rec to battery -tv was 12.21 the same as at the battery.
However what doesn't seem right is the voltage on the black wire was only 11.30v
89
« on: February 28, 2016, 02:50:46 PM »
Tested at the battery, are you certain that's not correct?
I've just read 4 online guides that also said test at the battery.
90
« on: February 28, 2016, 01:40:40 PM »
After fitting the combined unit:
12.18v to 12.24v dependent on revs.
Turning on the lights lowers it to 11.84 rising with revs but only to hitting around 12v at 3,000rpm.
So it's too high with the old parts and to low with the new.
This isn't making much sense to me, unless both are faulty. I can't see there being an issue on the AC generation side of things or it wouldn't have had the capacity to over charge with the old parts. With one plug and two wires all with matching colours connecting it up wrong seems unlikely.
Battery seems good 12.64v when I started working on it today.
Any ideas?
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