Honda-SOHC

That's a lot of work done to get it cleaned up and a pain if you can't get it up to scratch.

Hotter plugs in my opinion shouldn't correct anything but may give better running if they are fouling? as PatM says, you are probably looking at changing the jets to get more accurate delivery

My understanding of hotter plugs is that they have less of their ceramic insulator that is around the tip touching the plug body, the effect being to retain more heat at the tip and so prevent the spark area from fouling and producing no spark. The limit comes if the engine gets too hot and the plug tip then goes over temp and sarts to melt or cause pre-ignition / pinking.

The big risk for me in overfueling is that given sufficient over fueling the neat petrol will wash the cylinder bores free of oil causing high wear of bore and rings. Also dilution of the oil which leads to both cam and plain bearing wear ( basically it breaks down the lubrication film the oil is supposed to maintain during bearing loading) if the oil smells of petrol at all it needs replacing. It's this process that has accounted for a lot of engine wear over the years especially with manually operated chokes and one of the benefits of modern lean burn engines with accurate fueling is enhanced oil and thus material life in general use.

Anybody trying to clean carb components of gum may find it worthwhile soaking in neat diesel for a while to help  start of with.

That picture of the head in oven cheered me up Den, so they will fit then as I've got two to do eventually.

Have visions of you oiking the sunday roast out of the way to get the bike painted!

Thanks for that PMK, it's quite interesting to see. Also it appears to have a two part alternator cover but unsure of what I can see, is that something the originals had?

Something else, I was watching an old scrapheap challenge that I put on for my son in which they had to lift things up with a crane to get points. One of them chained up an engine in a car and lifted!! out came a whole CB750 motor..............shame on them.

As you say Yoshi, if you blead them well they are fine with a standard master cylinder and I guess that later ones with taller reservoir was to give more fluid "stock" between services. If you check the level regularly there is ample safety margin.

I'm making the assumption that operating two calipers with the same master then you would halve the hand effort to get the same amount of squeeze at the wheel?

I like brakes with a softer start point anyway as if they are too grabby at first they are harder to control over a range of grip levels, you just need them to keep on getting more power as pressure is applied in a linear fashion.

Yes Florence the pads have a major effect so worth evaluating if you are not happy with what you've got, and sticking to a good type when you find it.

Your point about the CX500 are interesting. Years ago rode a superdream 400 (same brakes I think) track bike and they'd used a girling master on std brakes which they found too sharp so had then fitted a device to add some squishyness? into the system to make them easier to control, they were still very potent though.

It's looking good with all those bits cleaned, don't see why you shouldn't clean and prep all the pieces as you'd probably regret it if you wanted to do it later.

Followed a friend on F2 years ago and saw him lift the rear wheel just enough to make it slide! when lent on to standard pipe RHS and only just stayed on it so clearance is always an issue if you ride it like that. Probably has just as much to do with rear shock compression damping as well as there was a dip mid corner that effectively bottomed it out.

Marzoccis or S+W replacements would be good period mods for it, girlings were ok but seemed a bit crude and seemed to have high spring rate.

Your'e right there Florence, they do need a regular clean to keep them operating as well as possible.

I don't think the caliper is that bad as an engineering solution, more that you can't get enough leverage with standard master cylinder. I call this effect the first real anti-lock disc brake system as you'd have to have hands like king Kong to lock the wheel in the dry!!

Ran a K2 750 with twin standard discs and std master in the 80's and they were suprisingly effective as the effort you have to put in was reduced for any friction that was generated.

That sounds like a good plan, I'd go with the reddex too as there's no need to strip if ok. Probably worth dosing it again when running then oil change it to get any contaminant / reddex out of the motor and asses if it's all running as expected. It'll save a lot of time and money.

Hi and Welcome. Another 3 750's coming out of the woodwork, that's good.