Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on January 30, 2023, 05:25:19 PM
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I'm currently assembling the front of the bike & want to fit the bars to make it easier to move the bike on & off the stand.
I know my bar switches were not UK types as the wires were external not in the bars though there are some holes in the bars.
Looking at the measurement between the centre of the bar clamp bolts its 10 cm wide between the clamp posts - the bars have the serrations for where they clamp - gap is about 8.3 cms.
This means the serrations will not fit central to the clamp so am guessing the bars are originally for a different bike to the 500.
Are there bars of the correct size around still any pointers as to the best ones to fit please?
DS do a replica YAM O01 / FBDAA-323-620P no sight of any wiring holes on their site pics priced @ £42.00
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The 500 switchgear wires go through the bars. Take some pics of the switchgear and the bars themselves. If at all possible see if you can find original 500/550F bars, not 550K3 bars. I'll measure the top yoke and bars serrations on mine and see what they are.
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Hi Ted.
My clamps are 100mm between centres and 80mm between serrations. But mine are 550F2. Not sure if that’s important.
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A few years ago I was looking for bars for a 500. Noticed DSS sell bars for the 550F with the holes (FDBAA-390-620P). Rang them and asked them to get out one of those and one that they sell for the 500 (that has no holes). Asked him to compare the profiles and tell me the difference and he said next to nothing as far as he could see. So fitted the 550F bars to the 500 and wired through the bars.
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It's also a little close to the curve of the bars.
If I place one side of the bars so the serrations sit in the middle the other side has as near as dam it no serration in the clamp!
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52659109489_4b081fecf1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeiGCR)Bar clamps (https://flic.kr/p/2oeiGCR) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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The 500 switchgear wires go through the bars. Take some pics of the switchgear and the bars themselves. If at all possible see if you can find original 500/550F bars, not 550K3 bars. I'll measure the top yoke and bars serrations on mine and see what they are.
Thanks Ken that would be handy.
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The serrations are 100mm wide from middle to middle, the holes in the top yoke are the same size, so the serrations should match the bolt holes exactly.
Check both the bars and the yokes to see which one is wrong.
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The serrations are 100mm wide from middle to middle, the holes in the top yoke are the same size, so the serrations should match the bolt holes exactly.
Check both the bars and the yokes to see which one is wrong.
I would say the bars are not made to fit this bike originally.
The yoke is fine the clamp unit with the pilot lights fits fine just not happy with the clamping situation.
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If DS are selling CB550F bars with the holes make sure they are UK bars not USA bars before ordering.
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If DS are selling CB550F bars with the holes make sure they are UK bars not USA bars before ordering.
When I put the original 500 part number in it comes up with the above part number for 53100-323-620.
Not sure if the DS part has holes as it's not visible on the three pics.
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Mine are UK 550 bars with holes are identical in measurement to Oddjobs. I’d wager you have the wrong bars.
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Try these Ted, https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/CB550F2-SUPER-SPORT-1977/part_188996/
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Yes, they’re the ones I bought. Recommended.👍
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Incidentally, buy genuine grips too as the pattern ones are 10mm too short!
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This is how they sit in the clamps. I can't show the left side with the serrations central as the right side sits on the curve of the bars pulling it back so as to speak.
Not sure how the 500 DS bars differ from the 550 ones I will check the bar diameter as well as the holes before I order anything.
I have the grips suggested by Ken for the 1100 I think it was - correction 1300. (amended)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/52658986967_fb242bc538_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oei5dp)bar fit (https://flic.kr/p/2oei5dp) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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550 differ from the 500 ones that DS sells as they have the holes for the wires, why DS would sell different bars for the 2 models is beyond me, they are essentially the same bars. Grips were off a 1300 Ted and they should be just fine. The throttle tube setup should help with the amount of throttle travel the 500/550 has.
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550 differ from the 500 ones that DS sells as they have the holes for the wires, why DS would sell different bars for the 2 models is beyond me, they are essentially the same bars. Grips were off a 1300 Ted and they should be just fine. The throttle tube setup should help with the amount of throttle travel the 500/550 has.
So the 550 bars will have the serration centre points 100 mm apart so okay for the 500 - handy having the holes as well - my existing bars do not have an exit slot just a couple of holes on the underside that look too small for wiring - more like drain holes - they have nice rounded chrome coloured stop ends if I can get them out undamaged.
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On the original bars there is a central slot between the serrations for the wires to exit. On the ends of the bars, someway in there should also be a slot for the wires to enter the bars but next to the slot there should also be a small hole, this is for the peg inside the switch to fit into, this positions the switch properly on the handlebars and also stops it spinning on the bars. The bars themselves should also have 2 punch marks next to outside edge of the serrations, these should be aligned with the gap between the clamp and the yoke so the bars sit at the correct angle.
Just in case you didn't know that Ted. AFAIK all Hondas have these punch marks, same as the ones on the pedals and pivot pins on the brakes.
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550 differ from the 500 ones that DS sells as they have the holes for the wires, why DS would sell different bars for the 2 models is beyond me, they are essentially the same bars. Grips were off a 1300 Ted and they should be just fine. The throttle tube setup should help with the amount of throttle travel the 500/550 has.
The 500 323 UK bars have a different rise to the 550 390 UK bars by about 1/4 inch from memory. Put the 500 UK bars on to a 550 and at the correct angle, the master cylinder is touching the clocks. Put the UK 550 390 bars on a UK 500 and as the clocks are lay flat, it doesn't effect anything. ;)
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I have 500 bars on mine with 550 top yoke and clocks and it never hit anything, maybe it’s different market bars that did that. Even so, as Teds going 550 onto 500 he should be fine with the 550 bars.
Ted, can you post a pic of your switchgear especially from underneath to see if they’ve been altered to allow the wires to go outside the bars.
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The alignment pips are only on genuine original bars if I remember correctly.
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Not on the DS copies then Phil, you’d think DS would specify that when he ordered them.
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Correct, certainly not on the ones they sent me.
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I have 500 bars on mine with 550 top yoke and clocks and it never hit anything, maybe it’s different market bars that did that. Even so, as Teds going 550 onto 500 he should be fine with the 550 bars.
Ted, can you post a pic of your switchgear especially from underneath to see if they’ve been altered to allow the wires to go outside the bars.
Both switches look original no sign of any file work or cutting out to my untrained eye.
As these look as thought the wiring is external might there be issues getting the wiring to fit through the holes - be nice to have the option if at some time I have to change the switches.
The 550 bars look the better option at the moment.
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.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52659980652_defb8c19f5_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oeoaAU)PXL_20230131_115401953 (https://flic.kr/p/2oeoaAU) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52660928725_ce73e24dac_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2oet2qZ)switch (https://flic.kr/p/2oet2qZ) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
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Not original 500 switches. More like 550 or 400/4 ;)
On a closer look, they are for outsize cables maybe 550K3 or 500T
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Not original 500 switches. More like 550 or 400/4 ;)
On a closer look, they are for outsize cables maybe 550K3 or 500T
Bryan did tell me they were US spec parts before I bought the bike.
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550K3 switches Ted, not been altered by the look of them. Does it have the pass/horn button or just a horn button, can't see.
You have a choice, reuse them and run the wires outside the bars, replace them but then you have another choice, go with 550F switches that look like you already have or go back to the original 500 switches, in which case you're going to need to source a On/Off handlebar switch for the lights.
Another alternative is just to find the bodies off a 550F and swap the internals over. You only really need the bottom pieces.
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I remember the bars being pattern, probably why the serations are too close together and the switches were a pair from my big box of used bits that work and had external wires as the bars were not strengthened for holes. The internal wiring may look nicer but can be a pain if you need to look into the switch in the future.
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550K3 switches Ted, not been altered by the look of them. Does it have the pass/horn button or just a horn button, can't see.
You have a choice, reuse them and run the wires outside the bars, replace them but then you have another choice, go with 550F switches that look like you already have or go back to the original 500 switches, in which case you're going to need to source a On/Off handlebar switch for the lights.
Another alternative is just to find the bodies off a 550F and swap the internals over. You only really need the bottom pieces.
Just a horn button like my 400 is - does the 500 K1 have external cables or internal?
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Internal originaly
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You can of course just use the switches you have and wire them through bars. The RHS is mostly hidden by the clamp for the master cylinder. The LHS you could fill and paint or as oddjob suggests, source another lower.
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Personally I'd sell the existing switches, the ones for the K3 are very rare for some reason. I've known K3 owners search for ages to find one. You could buy new switches with what you get for the K3 ones.
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Are these bars suitable the price is below DS with free delivery?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303327670144
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Difficult to tell from a pic Ted, i seem to remember Honda ones being reinforced in the middle where the hole was cut out for cables.
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Just been and checked my original 1970s handlebars Ted and I cannot see any bracing at all, the bars are quite thick metal so they might have relied on that for strength. Only had 1 set of bars bend (not snap) and they didn't bend where the holes were at all, they bent where they bend downwards.
£38, snap em up Ted. Let us know if the are drilled for the locating pegs as well and if they are punch marked, would be interesting to know.
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Yes, don't think the Silver's had drillings for the locating pegs.
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They are the correct width across the serrations so duly ordered.
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Mine had the drillings for the switchgear, but definitely did not have the alignment punch marks.
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If the locating peg holes aren't there let me know and I'll measure my bars and advise as they are off at the present.
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OK
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They will be Ted🤞