Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on February 20, 2023, 07:12:44 PM
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I learnt from Julie a few weeks ago that the front fork drain washers should be alluminium not copper (like the sump Plug).
I have just dismantled the front brake hoses from the front connector block & noticed it has Alloy washers not Copper ones like almost every other brake part I have ever worked on.
So the $64,000 dollar question is what should it be?
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Originaly alloy but copper is fine, and more available
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Never seen an alloy sealing washer in that location Ted, always been copper and I’ve seen hundreds over my time, as are the ones under the socket bolt under the fork slider. Part number is 90453-273-000, look at any picture of that part number and you’ll see they are copper.
Brake line ones are usually copper as well although alloy for both of the above could be used, it’s just a crush washer when all’s said and done, so long as it seals that’s all that’s important.
Btw the genuine washer for the drain bolt is around £1 odd each, just buy a normal 6mm copper washer off eBay and save yourself some money, same goes for the socket bolt washer, says special packing washer in the Honda description but there is nothing special about it really, same for sump bolt sealing washers, buy them off eBay, cheap as chips.
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Honda's concern was to avoid electrolysis.
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I tend to use both materials, depending on what's to hand and I usually anneal them first. Aluminium heated so that a match stalk will leave a brown streak when stroked across the still hot object, copper heated to cherry red and can be left to cool but better quenched in water as most of the oxides just fall off. Belt and braces, I usually put a thin smear of Hylomar on the thread and washer to prevent dribbles, which at my age is becoming increasingly important :). The Hylomar also helps prevent electrolytic corrosion.
When I was an apprentice there were big signs all over the factory:
[attach=1]
Ian
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I tend to use both materials, depending on what's to hand and I usually anneal them first. Aluminium heated so that a match stalk will leave a brown streak when stroked across the still hot object, copper heated to cherry red and can be left to cool but better quenched in water as most of the oxides just fall off. Belt and braces, I usually put a thin smear of Hylomar on the thread and washer to prevent dribbles, which at my age is becoming increasingly important :). The Hylomar also helps prevent electrolytic corrosion.
When I was an apprentice there were big signs all over the factory:
(Attachment Link)
Ian
Bloody hell Ian that takes me back .. saw it on a plywood plaque when I was a nipper and didn't understand it.
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That's because of your sheltered up-bringing Ash, although I was born in Clifton St, I was brought up East of the River Hull!
Ian