Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: Green1 on January 01, 2015, 04:56:06 PM
-
Anyone out there with a Vauxhall Vectra B
I pulled the drive shaft seal out of my dads Vectra about a week ago and then got distracted. ::) Anyway no matter how much I scratch my head I cant remember whether the seal was flush or pushed in until it comes to a stop.
Any help greatly appreciated
Mick
-
If you can not see any marks to were the seal sat before, than it was flush.
-
That makes sense cheers Trig
Mick
-
any circlip holding it in ? Have not worked on a Luton based car in years.
-
No nothing holds it in.
Mick
-
Flush then Mick ;)
-
Thanks again Graham I will give it a go tomorrow if I don't get distracted again
Mick
-
Don't want to hijack your thread Mick but really scratching my head too over my daughters Micra 2004, which I got her a couple of months back. It's only done 15k miles. Bought a new Yuasa battery for it but it self discharges in a couple of days (I am sure that the battery is not at fault) . Charged the battery for 8 hours@5amps as it's a 45 amp/hour battery . Monitored the current drain with Fluke DVM on the car and it starts at about 0.6A then quickly drops to 50 mA. Charge light goes off and charging at 14.5 'ish volts at tick-over so charging OK. No interior lights left on. Battery terminals clean and Vaselined. Charges fine after jump start.
Pulled the fuse that feeds the audio (no audio anyway as she doesn't have the code.) Going to monitor with a PC logger to graph current leakage overnight, once I have been to work to pick up the gear up to do it.
Read somewhere on line that the ECU can start checking the electrical circuits at random as a fault which discharges battery. Also that radio keeps trying to select CD. possible ECU reprogramming could fix.
Anyone got any ideas? Want to walk into dealer fully armed with as much info as possible if it comes to that.
Ash
Told her I should have got her a Jazz ::) (although they can eat gearbox bearings if you get a bad 'un)
-
Try a volts check first thing in the morning. It should read 12.5 V. Start it up and it should go up to about 14 V. One way to test a battery is fully charge, see what the volts are, leave it and see how much it drops.
It is the problem with modern stuff, they want aircraft tech at budget price. Have you had anyone plug it in to see if it is showing any fault codes?
-
Hi Ash not a problem
My brother has just told me that the micra has a software program that continuously checks everything is turned off and this is a common problem on micras. ??? Apparently it can be switched off.
He has also known the keyless entry to play up
Unfortunately he has ended up in kwikfit so doesn't mess with cars anymore.
Mick
-
Apparently the keyless entry sometimes locks and unlocks the boot repeatedly until the battery dies.
Mick
-
Cheers guys ... that's what I thought too about it (possibly being an ECU related thing). Monitoring it overnight as soon as I can and will plot discharge with time tomorrow.
Again sorry for hijacking thread Mick but my daughter is in East Yorks at the 'mo but she lives in Leeds so I need to sort out ASAP (within a week). Have not yet taken it to get fault code checked out
Ash
-
Our Berlingo had this issue when we bought it, I found it had a relay for charging a caravan battery added at some point, the work of someone who' left it really very neat so it looke like a factory or pro install, but the relay was constantly kicking in and out. It killed the fairly new Yuasa battery the car came with I reacon, lasted the summer but needed the odd jumpstart. Much better starting with a replacement battery, though the old one tested out fine every time.
-
GOT this off the Internet .. did notice that boot opening is somewhat intermittent, so another thing to investigate !
Ash
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
Nissan_Micra_Bppt_wont_open
Note: this solution may work for other makes and models of car (e.g. Nissan Primera). Please call me if you want to see if it might be suitable.
My wife purchased a second-hand 2006 Micra 1.2 S in 2011. About 6 months after, she started experiencing the common fault of the boot not opening when the switch is pressed but worse still, the boot opening when the car was in motion.
This problem has been getting worse to a point were the boot was practically unusable Being an electronics engineer, I felt it was my duty to sort this problem out, particularly after finding out the price Nissan where charging for a new switch (and being of the same poor quality).
Reported problems (here's a current list of secondary problems people have experienced due to the switch fault):
Another common problem that has been reported is the battery being drained due to the faulty switch contacts being stuck active (closed). Therefore, over period of time draining the battery (same as leaving the lights on)
* A continuous beeping sound when the engine is turned ON
The replacement switch used is an IP67 rated push-button switch (does not allow ingress of dust or water down to 1m depth - click here for more info). This switch is used within one of our high-end systems (3D150CNT), that we manufacture and this was found to be an ideal replacement.
A new switch mounting plate was produced to fit in to the existing recess. The new switch plate assembly was then sealed in to place to ensure no ingress of water. See images below
-
Well I sorted my problem I don't know why I was being so dim about it I just pushed the seal in with the drive shaft so it set it at the right depth.
Ash how are you getting on with the Micra.
Mick
-
After pulling out the 10A Audio feed fuse and little charge left in the battery last night, it still turned over fine this morning. Not got the monitoring gear from work yet.
Thanks ...Ash
-
Final update on this. Turned out it was the standard fitment, Blaupunkt radio/CD. It was intermittently changing from Radio to CD mode even when the ignition was turned off and when it does this it takes about 0.6 Amps. Bunged an old Philips unit from a Mitsubishi in it (with the Ashimoto Iphone etc. audio input mod :D, to please daughter) and all is fine now. Cheers for all of your advice/comments. These electrical random faults are bu**ers to find sometimes.
Ash
-
Glad it's sorted I hate electrical issues my dads vectra is doing really random things now I suppose something has to give after 230k.
Mick
-
Glad it's sorted I hate electrical issues my dads vectra is doing really random things now I suppose something has to give after 230k.
Mick
My good lady had a diesel Vectra, oddly enough her one started messing around electrically when it hit 233k, if it's any consolation, it did carry on to 278k before the turbo bearings failed, would have been an easy fix, but her mum gave her a citroen, so it went for scrap :))
-
It would be a shame to scrap it as it runs spot on luckily the ABS light went out just as it went for it's MOT strangely it came back on the second I got in it to drive home.
Mick
-
Well been a long time but this little ba*tard started totally discharging it's battery again culminating in me having to get the train to Leeds to bring it back to sort out. Finally found the problem today. The boot release switch had water ingress, which resulted in
a dead short and hence the ECU trying to constantly pulse the door solenoid and flattening the battery. What a poxy switch too-- a real disgrace to fit this in an auto application shame on you NISSAN. Anyway I fitted dual IP68 sealed buttons to it and potted it all in epoxy so should be OK now, If anyone else on here has this problem, PM me and I will send you a switch for free ! Genuine assembly part is £70 on eBay.
[attachimg=1]