Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB350/400 => Topic started by: beemsquar on November 05, 2015, 11:43:40 AM
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Hello all,
I finally have all my engine shells and bearings after a long months wait and am about ready to assemble the engine.
Does anyone know of a good walkthrough/ guide/ tips on how to put it back together correctly and especially which bolts need loctite and which loctite to use?
It seems all too easy to make a mistake and I am thinking of making a downloadable checklist/guide once I'm done assembling mine to help others too, but if you pros out there can be of any help, that would be great!
I'm fairly confident in putting it back together, but just wanted some reassurance.
Again any help is greatly appreciated!
I will be updating the build thread soon now it's got some momentum again!
Andy
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There is only one place that I put thread lock and that is on the two bolts that hold the sprocket to the cam shaft. Just torque everything to the specified ftlb.
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Cheers guys, which locate do you use? Red, blue, etc?
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On the 400 engine, I also do the two M6 bolts securing the camchain tensioner horseshoe thingy to the crank case.
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Cheers,
What about the rubber pads in the crankcase that stop the cam chain hitting the crankcases?
I cant find a torque setting for every bolt, so just tighten it up tight?
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I cant find a torque setting for every bolt, so just tighten it up tight?
The w/shop manual also lists "general standard torque values":
5mm bolt and nut: 5Nm, 5mm Bolt 4Nm
6mm bolt and nut: 10Nm, 6mm Bolt 9Nm
etc, etc...
So if its not specified in the drawing for the component/group I'd go with those.
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Cheers, I didn't know that. Very helpful!
What about loctite type? Any preferences?
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Just the standard blue stuff. Also be carefull of putting too much on where the thread is going into a blind hole. In the worst case you can get hydraulic lock and crack the casing.
One thing to consider though, if Honda's spec was for tightening up the fasteners dry then lubricating them with locktite or copper grease can result in over tightening.
For me, I would avoid using it unless absolutely necessary or instructions say otherwise.
Dave..
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Cheers dave, Good point on torqueing when wet!
I think I'll just stick to using a few dabs of loctite where others have mentioned only then!
Thankfully Ive got blue loctite already, so one less thing to have to buy. Today I am going to start putting the crankcases back together.
Im feeling very nervous and cant believe ive finally got to this point i the build, hopefully all goes well.
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I've used some yellow bearing assembly loctite specifically to fix the rear wheel RH race in the hub where the location dia had worn slightly oversize. :D
Probably realise this already (from studying the workshop manual) .... when applying the Yamabond or similar "packing" to the crankcase mating faces, apply a smear to the four main bearing pillars where the bolts pass through.
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I only get nervous when it comes to giving the kickstart a few prodds.
I'm probably telling you 'how to suck eggs' but for the benefit of someone else reading this thread later, use some assembly lube on the bearing shells and mating surfaces, bearings, camshaft , cam followers before tightening up.
If youre a skinflint like me , some thick oil, molyslip or STP oil treatment is better than nothing.
Dave..
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I used Loctite bearing fit on the shells once. The crank was almost too stiff to turn over. I had to split the crankcases and scrape the stuff off.
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cheers guys.
No definitely not teaching me how to suck eggs, I'm a real newbie at this so all help is welcome.
I did buy some Joe Gibbs Driven engine assembly grease, as I was recommended to use it by a guy who builds cb400 race engines.
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I use Graphogen, much better to match new shells when running in. PM me your name & address and I will pop some in the post for you. To buy a tube is expensive and you will only need a small amount for the shells.
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Cheers Trigger, That's very kind, I have nearly assembled everything now and am ready to seal the cases.
If you think it is better to use the graphogen I can wait for it to arrive.
I definitely don't want to do the job twice!
I'll PM you.
Cheers
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I would not bother as you have some assembly compound in place. Not worth a strip down.
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No problem, Thank you anyway. very kind of you!
Off topic but I don't suppose you could give me some advice on installing the piston rings?
I have a set of genuine Honda rings but am not totally sure which is the top and second ring.
One is slightly smaller than the other and one has a silver edge, which looks like there is a slight chamfer maybe. Im guessing this is the second ring as the Clymer manual states?
The other is a tad bigger and is completely black, Top ring? Both have a tiny N on one side which I am also guessing must be the top?
Both seem the same thickness to me, but I'm not sure.
Any help would be appreciated!!
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I use Graphogen, much better to match new shells when running in.
Out of interest: would Down Corning Molykote G-N Paste serve too?
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Off topic but I don't suppose you could give me some advice on installing the piston rings?
Haynes manual states that the stamped letter indicates the top of the ring.
Also has this diagram showing the ring layout:
[attachimg=1]
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The top ring (compression ring) will have the silver edge. The second ring (scraper ring) will be black.
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Cheers guys, I figured it out in the end, really hard to see any noticeable difference in the shape of the two at first, but I got there eventually. Strange my Haynes manual doesn't have that image, the clymer did. But it was slightly different.