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Messages - Rirons
1
« on: August 15, 2016, 12:38:40 PM »
Bike it now running well, and although part of the reason for rough running is a little embarrassing I thought I'd share it anyways. Firstly I cocked up the valve timing so that didn't help, got away with it i.e. pistons and valves didn't clash, the float heights were miles out as i did them the haynes manual way. I had a noise which sounded like tappets but turned out to be the head gasket protruding into the cam chain tunnel, pushing the chain across and running hard against the cam sprocket, causing it to grab, now i though I'd put the gasket on the wrong way but the Ive checked and turning it over gives the same issues, it just a badly cut gasket, and its gen Honda, plus the cam chain was tensioned incorrectly. Now all is sorted and running well revs freely, also set the timing using strobe, so its spot on, now has power with very little tappets/cam chain noise. Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction. Now its all about riding in this lovely English summer 
2
« on: July 20, 2016, 07:57:50 AM »
i used halfords primer and satin black, with a clear coat after bead blasting, the needle end was painted with humbrol bright red modellers paint
3
« on: July 19, 2016, 12:37:31 PM »
i did mine and its not too difficult just takes ages to uncrimp, tip when recrimping you need an arc (same dia as the clock) of aluminum to spread the load and prevent marks when crimping I learn't this after i did mine. so i ahve some marks on the band but they look better for the refurb.
Managed to get replacement fasteners from a local fastener suppliers, i had to retap the face to accept but worked well.
Attached are some before and after,
4
« on: July 18, 2016, 12:35:22 PM »
reset the float height using the correct method not the Haynes manual method which had been sued prior, they were miles out, also cleaned the plugs which were sooty, indicating a rich mixture, so weakend it by 1/4 turn, also set the timing, it runs much better but still a little slugging and also seems to have a flat spot, plugs are now a almond brown which looks ok according to Haynes manual. Just need to get it feeling like it has some power. I will check the compression.
Getting there slowly
5
« on: July 11, 2016, 04:49:44 PM »
yeah refurbed them this year, thought Id set them correctly maybe not, i will check them also thanks
6
« on: July 09, 2016, 08:48:45 PM »
I have recently restored a 1976 400/4 when on its stand it revs well and seems to run cleanly but when on the road I can't get it past 4000 rpm
Has anyone got any ideas what to look for the timing has been checked and is ok
7
« on: November 03, 2015, 07:21:10 PM »
anyone know how much you can remove, and do you need to do anything else after, i.e. the compression ratio will be high and will the valves clash, does anyone know someone in west yorshire who can do it?
8
« on: November 02, 2015, 05:10:10 PM »
The head is now off and stripped down, the inlet valve on the noisy side is bent slightly so im thinking that wont help.
next the head is not flat, so needs skimming, anyone know somewhere that does this in west yorkshire?
9
« on: October 19, 2015, 08:39:07 PM »
There out drilled the rubber gave it some plus gas then manged to get a bent tool under the lip and pull them out interestingly there was no outer case any ways inwards and upwards
10
« on: October 18, 2015, 03:10:43 PM »
The noise is the at the opposite side to thetacho gear, I work for a gear company and I can't think how to rework the cam with the integral gear
I think it's head off and check the flatness etc, something to do in winter
11
« on: October 18, 2015, 03:07:04 PM »
Just measured the spacers
Rear wheel drum side 30 x 18 x 30long
Sprocket side 30 x 18 x 33 long
It easy to mix them up as I did it but it obvious when you look at the sprocket alignment not sure if you can get them from DS if not I'm going to draw them it and make some SS ones
Front has a 22 x 15 x 17 long plus a flanged bearing bush which I'm just drawing up at work as this is unobtainium I'll post the drawing when done
For info my wheels are spoked
Let's me know if you need anything else as I have it all broken down while I respoke and clean the grotty hubs
12
« on: October 17, 2015, 09:28:54 PM »
I have just stripped mine down I'll measure them for you and post the results it will be tomorrow I'm enjoying a beer now 
13
« on: October 17, 2015, 08:57:08 PM »
There pretty grotty so I'll bead blast them then lacquer , did you replace the dampers , if so how did you get them out mine are pretty stuck thought of warming up in the oven the missus isn't happy but needs must
14
« on: October 17, 2015, 08:52:49 PM »
I rebuilt the engine last year new bearing etc, on the left hand side ( when sat on it) there is a ticking noise I thought it was tappit clearance so reset them several times without impact has anyone got some suggestions what to look for during these dark winter months. I am thinking a bent valve or worn guide bush ?
Thanks
15
« on: October 17, 2015, 08:49:02 PM »
Thanks obviously pattern ones so it's DS for me and replace, do you know if the hubs are painted or bare metal?
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