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Topics - UKROBK7
16
« on: May 31, 2011, 08:09:03 AM »
This is for all you serial engine rebuilders! What torque values should you use when joining the crankcase halves? The values I have are:
Main bearing long M8 bolts: Honda Manual 14.5-18.1 ft lb. Haynes says 17-18 ft lb
Other M6 bolts: Honda Manual says in section 9-6, torque all bolts to 14.5-18.1 ft lb, in the Torque Data section at the front of the manual it says M6 crankcase bolts (quantity 6!) 13-15.9 ft lb. Standard value for an M6 bolt on this engine is 8 ft lb. Haynes says 8 ft lb in their book. I believe there are errors in the Honda Manual data as this is not the first time I have found wrong values.
The 2 x M8 and 1 x M10 bolt at the rear of the crankcase: I assume you use the same torque for these as you use for the surrounding M6 bolts?
what do you reckon?
Rob
17
« on: May 28, 2011, 11:00:56 AM »
Quick question! On the 750 77 K7 (and possibly other late clutches?) the outer clutch plate spiral goes anti-clockwise, what about the spiral on the other plates, does it go in the same direction or clockwise? I imagine one way throws excess oil off so I don't want to get it wrong! The Honda manual only shows straight cut friction plates
Help!!
Rob
18
« on: May 23, 2011, 09:43:33 AM »
Any one know why Honda stopped fitting this part (15621-300-000 Oil Guide Final) to the K7 and F1/2. I think it was to divert any oil away from the rear breather pipe. Its shown on microfiche as being fitted to the earlier models and my K7 has the drilled and tapped post for it to mount on but it's not on the microfiche for the other models. Was it found just not to be needed? I have shown where it should fit.
Rob
19
« on: May 12, 2011, 02:12:25 PM »
Is it safe to reuse the con rod bolts on these 750 engines or are you supposed to renew them? None of my manuals say to change them but I had to change them on a Ford I worked on as they relied on the known stretch when torqued down to keep everything together.
Hope the answer is that it's OK as I have just seen the price of new ones!!
Rob
20
« on: March 15, 2011, 09:01:41 AM »
Has anyone any experience in refinishing the castings of the 750 switchgear and the brake master cylinder? It looks like the original finish was black anodising as the areas that have been protected from the sun are black whereas the areas exposed to the sun have faded to either a grey or brownish colour. I have taken them to a local anodisers and they say they do not believe the switches to be anodised as they reckon the anodising would show up the grain structure of the casting plus the glossy "laquered" look on the switch gear has them puzzled.
If I have them powdercoated the lettering may disappear, if I have them 2K painted will the finish last with wear from gloved hands?
HELP!!! Any recommendations??
rob
21
« on: March 07, 2011, 07:07:36 PM »
Solved the difficulty in getting a correct K7 seat cover. I've give up and bought an old stock seat from the USA!!! I've been looking for over a year and its the first one I've seen on ebay that the seller will ship to the UK. Others wouldn't ship because of the hassle. Slight corrosion on the chrome ends of the strap but not a problem as I had my spare ones rechromed. The original alloy? strip is in great condition, the cover is soft and the foam is perfect.
Also had a good buy on UK ebay at the same time - a new F1 warning light panel and harness for virtually the same price as buying a reproduction panel decal. Since this is the same as for the K7 I'm well pleased!
Rob
22
« on: February 27, 2011, 07:35:30 PM »
Is there anything special about the 2 needle roller bearings (25x32x20) that fit inside the primary chain driven sprocket on the cb750? They only rotate when the clutch is used? I was looking at using good quality HK2520 ones in place of the relatively expensive honda ones, would there be any problems?
23
« on: February 18, 2011, 09:19:34 AM »
Does anyone know where you can get an accurate copy of the seat cover for a K7? I have tried Moretti, D silvers, ebay sellers and even tried a chap in New Zealand but they all sell seats or covers with a large block pattern. I have a good powdercoated pan and a very good replacement foam (not the one in the photo) so i don't really want to buy a complete seat BUT I may have to so if anyone has one for sale...........
The photos show the pattern I am after and also the pattern that was rubbed into the original seat foam.
Rob
24
« on: February 17, 2011, 07:17:51 PM »
Has anyone a recommended source for zinc plating (small batches), preferably in the West Midlands but would use elsewhere if they are reliable!
Rob
25
« on: February 03, 2011, 08:16:40 AM »
Anybody know what the difference is between the single stay front mudguard for the CB750K7 and that for the CB550K3? They have different part numbers but look the same on photographs.
Rob
26
« on: January 24, 2011, 08:11:20 AM »
Has anyone used the NE brand gasket sets from David Silvers for a CB750 rebuild? They are a low price compared to Vesrah etc. What would you recommend? David Silvers recommends using a Honda head gasket in place of the kit one.
Is the cylinder head on a CB750K7 unpainted (mine is) or was it originally painted.
Thanks Rob
27
« on: January 20, 2011, 07:32:04 PM »
Managed to get a couple of photos of my K7 rebuild progress. Front mudguard is wrong but came new with the bike so is fitted until I can find time to repair an old one for chroming. Handlebars are wrong, they are a cut-down pair so that I can get it through the doorways and back into the garage for summer!! The rectifier is a solid state heavy duty 3 phase one I picked up off ebay for 99p, its fitted with a home made heatsink. The original rectifier was found to have one of the diodes open circuit. One of the photos shows the speedo and tacho that I rebuilt with new face overlays
Rob
28
« on: January 13, 2011, 08:04:11 AM »
After being a subscriber to the forum for sometime I thought its about time I introduced myself! I live in Aldridge, West Midlands and am now retired (Hoorah!). Over the years my wife and I have owned a large number of cars and quite a few motorcycles. The cars started with an Armstrong Siddeley (some car for a person who had just passed his test) and my first bike was a James Captain with "go faster stripes" - not that it did.
I have previously restored a Norton Navigator and a Honda Shadow, both of which I sold. My current project is a CB750K7 which must have hung around the dealers for some time as it was registered in 1980. It has been completely stripped down (aren't their a lot of parts in the engine/gearbox?) and I have been gradually building it back up with overhauled and NOS parts (I try to do everything myself except for plating and painting). Its now at the rolling chassis stage with the frame etc powdercoated, forks rebuilt with hard chrome stanchions ,progressive springs and taper bearings, wheels rebuilt with rechromed original rims and stainless spokes, electrics rewired checked and fitted. Next stage will be the engine - that should be interesting!
I have 2 questions for you. First, has anyone fitted the heavy duty studs when rebuilding the engine? Are they required? I know about the problems some in the States have had getting the studs out without breaking and also some of the heavy duty studs also breaking when torquing down the head.
Secondly, David Silvers can no longer supply the exhaust system, has anyone bought the exhaust system from CMSNL and is it any good, on their photos it looks like 2 of the silencers have spot welds showing on the visible side of the silencers.
Hope you can help, Rob
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