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Topics - JustcallmeMrT
31
« on: February 21, 2015, 05:24:04 PM »
Was looking at my engine hanger bolts today, and I think the lower long bolt has been replaced with an incorrect size by the P.O.
What I have is a bolt that is 380 mm long including the bolt head, 366 mm long without the head, and 12 mm wide. It seems far too long, and had a massive spacer on it previously that I can't see in the diagrams from CMSNL. It also seems sloppy in the mounting holes, like it should be a thicker bolt.
Can anyone tell me what the actual dimensions should be for a 1977 F2?
32
« on: February 18, 2015, 08:44:44 PM »
Pulled the rocker arm shafts so I could prep the cover for paint, and noticed that while every other tappet has its own shaft, 1 and 2 inlet shared a common one with a notch in the far end.
Normal or odd?
33
« on: February 16, 2015, 08:56:40 PM »
I've taken the clutch cover off to polish it, wondering if I need to replace the kickstart seal and the clutch arm rod seal? If so, what brand do you recommend? Original Honda or are the repro ones ok?
34
« on: February 15, 2015, 04:50:17 PM »
I've got three engines sitting here by now, and two have intakes with a screw/port in the side, and one doesn't. Wondering which I should use in the current build. Which is best?  
35
« on: February 14, 2015, 11:34:23 AM »
Doing a top end rebuild and using the full Vesrah gasket set. Comes with these 8 green o-rings pictured, but not sure where they go. As there are 8 of them, thinking these might be the ones under the valve guides? If so, I haven't had those out, so shouldn't need to replace, right? Just had a sad thought - baked the head with those in... really hope it didn't damage them! 
36
« on: February 11, 2015, 07:41:29 PM »
They just push on? Rebuilding the head tomorrow so tips, tricks and advice always welcome.
37
« on: February 09, 2015, 03:28:38 PM »
[ Guests cannot view attachments ] Had a mate at work do some photoshop work so I could visualise how things would look with the colours and bronze plating I've been thinking about. This is what he sent back, and I think it looks pretty good! The bronze mesh under the seat to hide the battery and airbox will have a smaller grid and so look a little more subtle, and my bike will be running the stock airbox, not pods, and will have rearsets, not standard pegs, but in terms of lines, exhaust and colours, you get the idea. Still so far off, but it's nice to have a vision of the future. 
38
« on: February 08, 2015, 09:55:37 AM »
The can says to bake at 220 for 90 minutes to fully cure the paint. As I don't have access to an old oven, I thought I'd spend some time with a heat gun and infrared thermometer.... anybody have any thoughts?
39
« on: January 25, 2015, 05:36:23 PM »
After finally getting the retainer off (courtesy of a home made tool from a mate) Ive tried to get the rear wheel bearings out for over 2 hours with no success.
Tried heating the hub to get it to expand a bit, tried pushing it out with an expanding anchor bolt, tried cutting a groove in the inner race to relieve some tension, all with no effect. Anyone got some tips?
40
« on: January 22, 2015, 10:15:32 AM »
Hi all, wondering what kind of anti-sieze you use for pairing aluminium parts with stainless hardware? I've read that copper grease can increase the corrosion with this combo of metals, and not sure what to use instead? I've seen lithium grease, silver grease, etc. What would you recommend?
41
« on: January 18, 2015, 11:38:35 AM »
What is this and how do I fix it?   Looks to me like dried up grease and a bunch of rust. Should I be concerned about the bearings? Can I polish up that spacer in the second pic or is a replacement required? Thanks!
42
« on: January 16, 2015, 07:56:28 AM »
Alright gents, time to ask some questions that might be pretty basic, but I don't know the answers.
I purchased a 550K engine to put in my project. The engine has very low miles and is in excellent condition, but the PO bought it to cannibalised the head for his own project, then replaced it with another at a later date before selling it on to me.
He tells me the engine is ready to drop in and go, and looking at the quality of the bikes he had restored previously, I'm almost tempted to believe him, almost...
Trig mentioned awhile ago that I should check the sump and oil screen before installing, and I'm planning on checking the tappet clearances and changing oil/filter, but what else should I be doing before I try to drop this in the frame?
I don't have an engine mount, so what is the best way to access the sump - can I lay the engine up on its side?
Do I need a new gasket for the sump or can I reuse the old one?
I'm playing with the idea of polishing the covers, as there are a few spots of corrosion where the clear coat has been nicked. Again, if I remove these covers, will I need new gaskets or are the old ones reusable?
Anything I'm missing?
Any advice, as always, would be gratefully recieved.
43
« on: January 13, 2015, 02:25:37 PM »
Also posted this on the for sale board but in case anybody here could use it, I ordered an 8K electronic tach and gps speedo combination gauge from Cognitomoto in the US and now realised that I need a 12K tach... its brand new in the box.  Check it out here. http://cognitomoto.com/collections/gauges/products/cognito-moto-gps-speedo-and-small-tachRather than return it and pay more postage, I'll absorb the cost of duty and tax and pass it on for £265 + shipping to your location. Anybody interested?
44
« on: January 10, 2015, 11:21:57 AM »
Hi all,
I'm replacing the speedo and tachometer gauges with an electronic unit, so I'd like to eliminate the speedo drive on the front wheel. I've found one from Powerbarn in the U.S. but they don't ship internationally. I dont have a lathe to machine my own, you guys have a more local solution?
Thanks again for the help!
Also - stock gauges are up for grabs if anyone is interested.
45
« on: January 03, 2015, 02:55:34 PM »
Took a closer look at the shocks that came on my 550f2, and wondering if you guys think they need to be rebuilt or replaced? The mounting rubbers look pretty worn, but that's not an issue. My worry is that there seems to be some rust on the shaft that I assume will cause a leak if left as is. The internal plastic cover also cracked. Can these be rebuilt, or would it be better to replace them?    
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