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Topics - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)
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361
« on: June 02, 2021, 10:29:59 AM »
This morning I fitted the two crank case halves and it all went well - all torqued up fitted the primary gear shaft etc.
After fitting the shaft in the primary drive all went together ok.
I held up the timing chain and rotated the crank all seemed okay - I checked the conrods for free movement and number two just seems a bit tight occasionaly compared to the other three that would flick left & right as I expected.
I added some extra oil it seemed to help but at the top of its travel I can feel (or imagine) a slight tight spot.
With the conrod at the bottom of its stroke the rod will move easily to the left & right if you get my meaning - not quite the case when its near the top of its travel?
When I plastigauged the conrods the clearance were the same on all four rods - with each rotation of the crank the issue seems to have improved.
Do I need to seperate the case again & examine number 2 con rod bearings ?
362
« on: June 01, 2021, 05:57:05 PM »
Can't remember what this is it looks like some sort of stop - it has an O ring it looks like it's made from alloy ? Do I need to fit it inside before I fasten up the crankcase?  what is this part by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
363
« on: May 30, 2021, 01:41:30 PM »
Is there a preference here for torquing up the big ends is it crank in or crank out ?
At present my conrods are in place just nipped up on the crank on my ultra clean bench - I've checked that the rods are the right way round with the shell notches facing the exhuast side of the engine - this also tallies with the markings on the bearing caps from the photos I took when dismantling all back in the correct order on the crank journals.
It strikes me it might be easier to torque the big end nuts with the crank in the upper engine casing or is it better to do them with the crank out ?
What do folk here think ?
364
« on: May 29, 2021, 02:40:35 AM »
Whilst doing the Plasigauge on my Big Ends today I had trouble finding any of my sockets that would fit the nuts properly due to the small gap between the nut and the bearing cap. Out of four of my 12 mm sockets the best fit was a 1/4 drive socket with an adapter for my torque wrench but the fit was far from ideal.
When I come to fit the crank I am wondering if there is a decent brand of 12mm socket for the job perhaps a 3/8 drive that anyone can recommend ?
My so called thin walled 12 mm 1/2" drive one was not thin enough. Annoyingly my old Kamasa 3/8 drive set does not have a 12 mm one it jumps from 10 to 13 via 11 none are missing!
My best socket set is a Britool but its all A/F as was the fashion when I worked on cars in my youth.
365
« on: May 17, 2021, 11:40:06 AM »
I'm thinking ahead & want to build a spare engine for my CB400F2 - anyone here got spare parts or recommend a source for a good block that I can rebore to +0.5?
I've sourced a crankcase with bits inside so have bottom part of the engine as a starting point.
366
« on: May 15, 2021, 10:30:38 AM »
My new Plastigauge arrived yesterday - unlike my previous stuff its very brittle is this normal or is it dried out old stock?
367
« on: May 05, 2021, 06:36:32 PM »
368
« on: April 29, 2021, 01:33:52 PM »
Looking at assembly sealant options for the crankcase halves just a coule of questions please - I've looked at historical posts and on Google so I obviously need to make a choice. The price is not really a consideration (within reason) - I want to do it once & do it right.
1) I know with the likes of Hondabond it is used very sparingly - so what size / quantity of sealant tube do I need?
2) There seem to be several versions of Hondabond what is available now, Threebond 1184, Yamabond etc what is the easiest / best to use please - also thinking of a ticking clock to assemble all those top & bottom bolts before it sets?
369
« on: April 28, 2021, 11:57:22 AM »
370
« on: April 24, 2021, 10:07:24 PM »
After some anxiety I think have got my head around main bearing shell colour codes as the crankcase codes are easy to spot, if the colour code on your old main shell is illegible you can mic the crank and from the tables work out the shell colour code you need.
Although my big end shells are in pretty good condition it got me wondering about how the big end shell colour codes are arrived at. I can understand the journal measurements running along the top of the table but this time instead of numbers running horizontally there are letters with number running vertically instead of letters. Looking at old posts here it talks about markings on the crank web & con rods - in the absence of any visible markings how do you work out the shell size? At present the only markings I can see on my con rods are the letter "C" that I believe are to do with weight.
My crankshaft seems devoid of any markings although I have not cleaned it with petrol for a possible new reveal. Does this mean that the con rods have coded numbers for the rod internal diameter that in the absence of any numbers I need to measure the con rod diameter to establish if it's a 1,2 or 3 then from the crank jiurnal establish the appropriate letter range? Is it likely that all the conrods will have the same bearing shell size for a given weight code.
Sorry if I sound dense but it is as though they have deliberately switched the rules between the con rod tables & the mains!
371
« on: April 24, 2021, 03:01:19 PM »
All this colour coding it's spreading everywhere it was bad enought working out what size shells I need -not used Plasigauge in decades my memory was of it being white - so for a 400/4 crank what colour do I use on the mains please - Red Grey or Green?
Secondly will it be sufficient to just secure the main (10) crank case bolts above the crank to get a reliable reading?
372
« on: April 21, 2021, 01:59:16 PM »
I believe they are hard to find but I need one pair of Black Mains for my 400/4 I am having difficulty in finding the correct part number.
I have the following part numbers as - 13316-333-003 BROWN
13317-333-003 GREEN
Any pointers as to where I might find a pair & the correct part number please?
373
« on: April 13, 2021, 05:38:33 PM »
Whilst cleaning the mains oil gallery noticed both ends of the tube insert were slightly scuffed / damaged. Not sure what has caused it unless it was made like that - seems unlikely would not have thought the end cap would reach that far. .  scuffed bit here by Macabe Thiele, on Flickr
374
« on: April 09, 2021, 11:46:53 AM »
Today my BiL measured up my mains journal as follows with a decent micrometer the mains were measured in several places and were nice & round.
Crank Casing Code is CAABA where C is number 1 journal.
In order they were No:1 32.03, No:2 32.03, No:3 32.01, No:4 32.03, No:5 32.03
If the Crank Case Code is applied to the tables we think I need No:1 Blue, No:2 Brown, No:3 Green, No:4 Black, No:5 Brown
Does this look right to the folks here that know if Black is not available we think Brown as the next best alternative?
Or I'm not reading the tables correctly ??
375
« on: April 03, 2021, 09:45:48 PM »
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